{"id":4714,"date":"2025-10-10T17:56:49","date_gmt":"2025-10-11T00:56:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wrwofficial.com\/index.php\/2025\/10\/10\/how-to-lift-dahlias-for-winter-storage\/"},"modified":"2025-10-10T17:56:54","modified_gmt":"2025-10-11T00:56:54","slug":"how-to-lift-dahlias-for-winter-storage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wrwofficial.com\/index.php\/2025\/10\/10\/how-to-lift-dahlias-for-winter-storage\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Lift Dahlias for Winter Storage"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Tuber Tutorial<\/h2>\n

A dahlia tuber is the below-ground portion of the plant.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s a starchy storage organ that holds the food, nutrients, and water needed for growth<\/a><\/strong> as the plant establishes feeder roots.<\/p>\n

They come in a variety of shapes. Some look distinctly yam-like, others can be long and thin, plump and rounded, or elongated teardrops, depending on the variety.<\/p>\n

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\"A
Photo by Lorna Kring.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

For the purposes of storage and division, there are three sections to be aware of:<\/p>\n

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  1. The fleshy crown<\/strong> located at the base of the stem.<\/li>\n
  2. The thin neck<\/strong> that attaches the tuber to the crown.<\/li>\n
  3. The large tuber<\/strong> that\u2019s attached to the crown by the neck.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    The crown is only the only part of the plant that develops growth eyes.<\/p>\n

    But for successful propagation<\/a><\/strong>, all three sections are required to remain intact.<\/p>\n

    For this reason, don\u2019t try to propagate new plants using tubers that have grown from others \u2013 without a piece of crown, new plants won\u2019t develop.<\/p>\n

    Also, should you inadvertently break off actively growing eyes, it\u2019s not a problem. New ones will push up from the crown at the same location.<\/p>\n

    Dig and Lift<\/h2>\n

    When first lifted, dahlia tubers can have fragile necks.<\/p>\n

    If possible, dig them out in the morning and allow them to sit on the ground for a few hours before cleaning and dividing \u2013 the necks will be less brittle and easier to handle.<\/p>\n

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    \"A\"A<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

    To remove a clump, cut down stems to approximately 12 inches from the ground, if you haven\u2019t done this in advance.<\/p>\n

    Mark a radius of approximately 12 inches around the clump and use a garden shovel or fork to dig down six to eight inches to loosen the soil.<\/p>\n

    When the soil is loose, insert your fork under the clump and lift it carefully. Grasp the flower stems to help you lift it if needed.<\/p>\n

    Gently knock off any large lumps of soil from the clump and rinse with a garden hose to remove any remaining dirt.<\/p>\n

    With a sharp, clean knife, cut away any pieces that are damaged, discolored, soft, or rotting.<\/p>\n

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    \"A\"A
    Photo by Lorna Kring.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

    Invert the clump and set it upside down in a dry location for a few days. This allows any stem water to drain away and helps to remove excess moisture from the tubers.<\/p>\n

    This time spent drying, or curing, is important to prevent contamination from bacteria, fungus, mildew, and winter rot which can damage or destroy your tubers.<\/p>\n

    After the skin starts to wrinkle slightly, the tubers are dry enough for storage.<\/p>\n

    Winter Storage<\/h2>\n

    Storing tubers is straightforward and a wide variety of containers can be used including cardboard or wooden boxes, paper bags, or styrofoam ice chests.<\/p>\n

    Your dahlia tubers should not be stored in plastic bins, containers, or bags as these tend to trap too much moisture which can easily lead to mildew and rot.<\/p>\n

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    \"A\"A
    Photo by Lorna Kring.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

    They will require a dry to lightly moist packing medium. Coconut coir<\/strong><\/a>, peat moss<\/strong><\/a>, perlite, sand, sawdust, or vermiculite all work well for packing tubers.<\/p>\n

    For storage, line the box bottom with several layers of newsprint then add a generous layer of your chosen packing medium \u2013 two to three inches deep.<\/p>\n

    With clean, sharp garden shears, remove any long feeder roots growing from the tuber and any remaining pieces of stem.<\/p>\n

    Dust the tubers with a fungicide powder such as garden sulphur before storing, and ensure you apply it to any cut surfaces as well.<\/p>\n

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    \"A\"A<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

    Bonide Sulfur Plant Fungicide<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

    Garden sulphur can be purchased online at Arbico Organics<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n

    Place clumps of tubers inside the box on top of the packing medium ensuring that they\u2019re not touching. Add more packing material on top until they are completely covered.<\/p>\n

    Close the box and store it in a cool, dark location such as a basement, cellar, garage, or shed.<\/p>\n

    To ensure viability, temperatures need to remain above freezing and below 50\u00b0F, with an ideal temperature range of 40 to 45\u00b0F.<\/p>\n

    Every month, inspect the tubers carefully and discard any that show signs of softness or rot.<\/p>\n

    In late winter or early spring, move your containers to a warm (60 to 70\u00b0F), dark location.<\/p>\n

    Every week, sprinkle a tablespoon of water on top of the packing medium until you are ready to plant them out.<\/p>\n

    The warmth and added moisture help the growth eyes to develop, which makes division easier.<\/p>\n

    Divide and Plant<\/h2>\n

    After all risk of frost has passed, when you are ready to plant, remove the clumps from storage and gently shake off the storage medium.<\/p>\n

    Inspect the clump and discard any tubers that are moldy, soft, or rotten as well as those with broken or damaged necks.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n