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<\/div>\n<\/p>\n When the Persephone Period approaches, most of us are tucking our gardens to sleep and hunkering down for the long winter.<\/p>\n Unless we have a cold frame, that is. Then it\u2019s just business as usual around the garden.<\/p>\n Cold frames provide an ideal way to extend your growing season well into the fall<\/a><\/strong> and even all the way to winter.<\/p>\n They\u2019re easy to construct, don\u2019t require any fancy equipment, can be built using scraps, and can dramatically lengthen the amount of time you have available to grow plants.<\/p>\n We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links,\u00a0<\/em>we may earn a commission<\/em><\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n Whether you use them to start seedlings or you transplant tender garden plants into your cold frame, you can keep the garden joy going for months longer than you could otherwise.<\/p>\n In most areas of the US, you can grow goodies to enjoy during holiday feasts.<\/p>\n When everyone else is eating sad spinach from the grocery store, you can be devouring fistfuls of fresh-from-the-garden lettuce, or even strawberries. Sharing is optional.<\/p>\n We\u2019ll help you kickstart your fall growing adventures with this guide to fall cold frame gardening. Here\u2019s everything we\u2019ll go over in this guide:<\/p>\n In case it\u2019s not obvious already, I\u2019m a huge fan of cold frames.<\/p>\n I try to be mindful and accepting of the cycles of the year and the changing seasons, but darn it! I don\u2019t want to stop growing at the end of summer!<\/p>\n I love a good high or low tunnel for extending the growing season, but you can\u2019t beat a cold frame.<\/p>\n It\u2019s much warmer inside than it is in a tunnel and you can more easily control the environmental conditions.<\/p>\n Plus, I love a DIY project that you can build out of scrap wood and an old storm window. No need to buy expensive equipment.<\/p>\n If you\u2019re already dreaming of the tableful of goodies you\u2019ll be eating come December, let\u2019s not dawdle any longer.<\/p>\n A cold frame is a structure with four sides and a top made to cover and protect plants from cold weather, excess moisture, and wind.<\/p>\n Because these rudimentary structures don\u2019t have heating, artificial lighting, or advanced air circulation, they don\u2019t give you much room for adjustment.<\/p>\n You\u2019ll generally see about a five- to 10-degree increase in temperature plus protection from frost.<\/p>\n But that small increase can make all the difference. Plus, you can toss a few blankets over the top on particularly cold nights for a little added protection.<\/p>\n If you want something that can provide even more protection from the cold, you can actually add heat to a cold frame, to create what\u2019s known as a hot bed.<\/p>\n These are essentially the same in all other ways except for the addition of heat.<\/p>\n You can purchase pre-made cold frames or you can easily make your own using reclaimed materials. You basically need an old window and some scrap wood and you\u2019re golden.<\/p>\n In his essential book \u201cFour-Season Harvest\u201d on growing crops year-round, Eliot Coleman writes that \u201cgardeners should dedicate a monument to the cold frame,\u201d \u2013 or as he calls it, \u201cthe magic box.\u201d<\/p>\n That\u2019s because he believes it\u2019s the simplest yet most successful tool for extending your growing season.<\/p>\n If you want to learn more about not only cold frame gardening but greenhouses, high tunnels, root cellars, and indoor growing, you should check out Coleman\u2019s book, available via Amazon<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n There are many ways to use a cold frame.<\/p>\n Perhaps the most common is to protect frost-tender annual vegetables from cold weather to extend the growing season a few weeks longer in the spring<\/strong><\/a> or fall.<\/p>\n But you can also use them to start seeds outdoors or to protect perennials that aren\u2019t quite hardy enough to live in your USDA Growing Zone.<\/p>\n You can use them to overwinter plants or harden off seedlings that you\u2019ve started inside.<\/p>\n They\u2019re also ideal for rooting cuttings because they tend to have higher humidity than the outdoor environment.<\/p>\n We\u2019ll focus on all the marvelous ways you can use cold frames in the fall in this article, but keep all of these versatile uses in mind when you weigh your options in terms of deciding how large of a structure to make and how much use you\u2019ll get out of it.<\/p>\n As the old saying goes: location, location, location! Finding the right spot is the key to maximizing your cold frame\u2019s usefulness.<\/p>\n In addition to offering wind protection and increased humidity, the whole point here is to increase heat, so placing the \u201cmagic box\u201d on the north side of a house where it won\u2019t receive direct sun exposure defeats the purpose.<\/p>\n You want to select a spot with southern exposure that receives at least four hours of sunlight per day.<\/p>\n More is even better, but you can achieve a respectable amount of growth with just four hours of light.<\/p>\n If there is some sort of protection to the north of the bed, like a hedge or building, all the better.<\/p>\n This reduces wind and provides a little bit of insulation. And if you can place it next to a brick or cement wall, you\u2019ve hit the sweet spot!<\/p>\n Your plants will benefit from the heat reflected off the side of the building.<\/p>\n Just make sure whatever the frame is placed next to doesn\u2019t shade the structure at all at any time of day.<\/p>\n I realize that\u2019s not always possible, so don\u2019t worry if the frame is shaded for part of the day, so long as it receives at least four hours of direct sun.<\/p>\n Some, though not all, cold frames are built up slightly, sort of like a shallow raised bed<\/a><\/strong>. But that doesn\u2019t mean you can ignore the soil conditions underneath. Good drainage is a must.<\/p>\n Unless you\u2019re growing plants for your pond, in which case, poor<\/em> drainage is a must\u2026<\/p>\n It isn\u2019t just the water that you\u2019ll be adding that you need to worry about, but the ground saturation that occurs during the fall rain and snowstorms.<\/p>\n Good drainage is especially important for structures that are sunk below ground level.<\/p>\n If you plan to heat your bed, make sure an electrical outlet is located nearby, or invest in a solar option.<\/p>\n You also want to have water close at hand. It\u2019s a pain to haul buckets of water across the entire yard.<\/p>\n I find that the best spot is against my house on the south side.<\/p>\n That way the cold frame is easily accessible, receives heat from the house, and is positioned near available water and electricity.<\/p>\n While constructing a bed is beyond the scope of this article, let\u2019s go over the broad requirements for a cold frame.<\/p>\n Essentially, you want to create a structure with four walls and a clear roof.<\/p>\n You can build the walls out of whatever you want, but brick, concrete, or stone work really well because they hold in the heat better than wood, glass, or metal.<\/p>\n In fact, if you use metal, you\u2019ll want to insulate it. If you use glass for the walls, expect the heat retention to be negligible.<\/p>\n Don\u2019t use materials that have been treated with chemicals or you run the risk that these chemicals will leach into the soil and into your plants.<\/p>\n For the top \u2013 or light, as it\u2019s called \u2013 many gardeners use old storm windows or other pieces of discarded glass, or you can have a piece of new glass custom cut to fit your box.<\/p>\n You can also use plastic, polycarbonate, or fiberglass.<\/p>\n The back of the frame should be taller than the front to promote water runoff.<\/p>\n A piece of glass that is hinged at the top is extremely handy because you can simply prop up the glass when you\u2019re working in the bed or to provide ventilation.<\/p>\n But if you can\u2019t manage a hinge, you can always lift the top piece off as needed or prop it up with sticks.<\/p>\n It doesn\u2019t matter what size you opt for, so long as it suits your space and needs.<\/p>\n Most end up being at least two feet wide and six feet long, though they should be double that square footage if you want to feed a family of two all autumn long.<\/p>\n The ground in the bed should be carefully leveled or you\u2019ll potentially end up with pooling that can kill your plants.<\/p>\n Portable cold frames can be placed directly over tender plants with the arrival of cold weather.<\/p>\n You can remove the frame on warm, sunny days, or leave it in place all season. You\u2019ll just need to prop it up or open the top to provide ventilation when the days are warm.<\/p>\n Wooden Cold Frame<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n If you don\u2019t want to go the DIY route and you don\u2019t need a high degree of temperature regulation an option like this one from Tierra Garden that\u2019s available at Walmart<\/a><\/strong> will do nicely.<\/p>\n It is made from wood with a polycarbonate transparent roof.<\/p>\n To start seeds in your \u201cmagic box,\u201d you\u2019ll want to have a nice, thick layer of seed-starting medium inside. Two or three inches deep should do it.<\/p>\n Make sure the medium temperature registers close to 70\u00b0F\u00a0for most seeds before planting. If it isn\u2019t that warm yet, leave the top closed to allow the heat to build.<\/p>\n It\u2019s best to plant seeds for fall crops at the beginning of fall or in the late summer. If you wait too long, you\u2019ll be fighting increasingly colder weather and shorter days.<\/p>\n Of course, if your seeds require hotter or colder temperatures to germinate, it\u2019s best to wait until the medium is the right temperature.<\/p>\n Keep the medium moist but not wet and wait for the seedlings to pop up. Once they do, you\u2019ll want to open it up during the day for at least an hour or two to promote good air circulation.<\/p>\n You should always try to close your cold frame by the early afternoon to trap as much heat as possible for the evening, unless it\u2019s a hot day with a warm night ahead.<\/p>\n Once the seedlings are an appropriate size for the particular species, you can transplant them into a greenhouse<\/strong><\/a> or tunnel if you prefer, or leave them in the cold frame to continue maturing until harvest time.<\/p>\n The best options for fall seed starting are arugula<\/a><\/strong>, spinach<\/a><\/strong>, mustard greens<\/a><\/strong>, bok choy<\/a><\/strong>, leaf lettuce<\/a><\/strong>, radishes<\/a><\/strong>, kale<\/a><\/strong>, kohlrabi<\/a><\/strong>, broccoli rabe<\/a><\/strong>, beets<\/a><\/strong>, and herbs like basil<\/a><\/strong>, chives<\/a><\/strong>, cilantro<\/a><\/strong>, fennel<\/a><\/strong>, parsley<\/a><\/strong>, thyme<\/a><\/strong>, oregano<\/a><\/strong>, and mint<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n For a clearer idea of what you can do using cold frames, here\u2019s a specific garden plan:<\/p>\n If you live in Zone 5, you could plant arugula, chard<\/a><\/strong>, chicory<\/a><\/strong>, claytonia, dandelion<\/a><\/strong>, endive<\/a><\/strong>, kale, mizuna<\/a><\/strong>, green onions<\/a><\/strong>, parsley, sorrel<\/a><\/strong>, spinach, and tatsoi in September in your cold frame and continue growing these plants throughout the entire winter.<\/p>\n Beets, carrots<\/a><\/strong>, lettuce, radishes, and turnips<\/a><\/strong> can be planted in September for harvest through November by cold-frame gardeners in Zone 5.<\/p>\n Vegetables, herbs, and tender perennials can all be cared for in the same way. You can transplant directly in the soil or place potted plants into the cold frame.<\/p>\n Don\u2019t feel constrained by the list of typical fall-friendly veggies that you may have seen out there \u2013 or like the one above! \u2013 if you aren\u2019t starting with seed.<\/p>\n One year I got a late start planting my squash and I decided to put a zucchini<\/a><\/strong> plant that I started earlier in a cold frame. Purely experimental, but it was a huge success.<\/p>\n When the frost arrived in October, I just closed up the box and let my zukes keep doing their thing.<\/p>\n They matured into November, and after the harvest I pulled the plant and replaced it with more traditional fall and winter veggies like kale and broccoli started from seed.<\/p>\n I\u2019ve also overwintered fuchsia<\/a><\/strong>, nasturtiums<\/a><\/strong>, and geraniums<\/a><\/strong> with great success. Friends have done well with extending the season for tomatillos<\/a><\/strong> and tomatoes<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n When the weather permits, you should open the bed to allow air to circulate. Never open the frame to water or for ventilation when temperatures are at or below freezing.<\/p>\n Plants need more ventilation in the fall than they do in the winter because temperatures can rapidly climb too high on a warm fall day.<\/p>\n As the temperatures drop, you can vent less and less.<\/p>\n Did you know you can actually buy temperature-activated arms that will open your light when it becomes too hot inside?<\/p>\n I know I said I love a project that doesn\u2019t involve buying gadgets or tools, but these might be worth it.<\/p>\n Automatic Solar Vent Opener<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n If you leave for the day and you don\u2019t realize a heat wave is on the horizon, your plants could be toast. Grab an Automatic Solar Vent Opener from Walmart<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n If it\u2019s raining, you don\u2019t have to open the frame at all, but you can if you want.<\/p>\n You can even open it for a bit to let Mother Nature do the watering for you and then close it when the plants have received enough, as long as temperatures are warm enough.<\/p>\n Remember that during the fall, plants need less water to survive.<\/p>\n Don\u2019t keep the soil as wet as you normally would during the summer \u2013 it\u2019s best to stick your finger into the soil and make sure it doesn\u2019t feel soggy.<\/p>\n Most plants do best if you let the top two inches of soil dry out before watering.<\/p>\n Larger plants will still require more water overall than small seedlings and tinier species, and you\u2019ll also tend to open the frame more often to irrigate them and improve air circulation.<\/p>\n But as autumn progresses and the sun drops lower in the sky, you\u2019ll need to water less and less often. In fact, by November, you might not need to water at all.<\/p>\n Speaking of, it helps to be aware of what kind of temperatures your plants can handle. If you\u2019re growing kale in the late fall, it probably won\u2019t hurt things to prop the light open all morning.<\/p>\n But if you\u2019re growing some basil, you\u2019ll have to be extremely mindful of when you open the top. It should never be colder than 40\u00b0F outside or you risk killing the plants.<\/p>\n You generally don\u2019t have to worry about pests during the really cold months, but those warm fall days are a different story.<\/p>\n Pests love the warm, humid, often crowded conditions of cold frames. Aphids<\/a><\/strong>, whiteflies<\/a><\/strong>, and scale<\/a><\/strong> are all common.<\/p>\n If you see snow that wants to stick around, wipe it off the top. You need to let the sunlight in so the frame can heat up.<\/p>\n If a deep, heavy freeze is in the forecast, heap straw or blankets on the top overnight to add a little insulation.<\/p>\n Who wants to stop the gardening party just because summer is winding down?<\/p>\n Almost anyone, from urban and small-space gardeners to those with lots of land, in a variety of climates, can benefit from using cold frames for fall gardening.<\/p>\n These simple gardening tools make all the difference in moderating environmental conditions, and allow you to extend the harvest all the way until the winter holidays.<\/p>\n What will you be growing in your magic boxes? Let us know in the comment section below.<\/p>\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Use-Cold-Frame-in-Fall-Feature.jpg\"\/)
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<\/figure>\n<\/div>\nWhat Is a Cold Frame?<\/h2>\n
![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Cold-Frames-Outside-a-Stone-Cottage-1024x683.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\nUses<\/h2>\n
![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Wooden-Cold-Frame-1024x683.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\nFinding the Right Location<\/h2>\n
![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Wooden-Cold-Frame-Outside-a-Residence-1024x683.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\nFrame Construction<\/h2>\n
![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Building-a-Cold-Frame-with-Old-Windows-1024x683.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Cold-Frames-in-a-Row-in-the-Garden-1024x683.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Wooden-Cold-Frame.jpg\"\/)
![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Wooden-Cold-Frame.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\nStarting Seeds<\/h2>\n
![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Filling-Cold-Frame-with-Soil.jpg\"\/)
![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Filling-Cold-Frame-with-Soil.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\nCaring for Mature Plants<\/h2>\n
![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Cold-Frames-by-a-Greenhouse-1024x683.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Automatic-Vent-Opener.jpg\"\/)
![\"A](\"https:\/\/gardenerspath.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Automatic-Vent-Opener.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\nMagic Boxes for Growing Fall Crops<\/h2>\n
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