{"id":8631,"date":"2026-09-23T18:55:59","date_gmt":"2026-09-24T01:55:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wrwofficial.com\/index.php\/2026\/09\/23\/learn-how-to-winterize-roses\/"},"modified":"2026-09-23T18:56:01","modified_gmt":"2026-09-24T01:56:01","slug":"learn-how-to-winterize-roses","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wrwofficial.com\/index.php\/2026\/09\/23\/learn-how-to-winterize-roses\/","title":{"rendered":"Learn How to Winterize Roses"},"content":{"rendered":"

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The rose (Rosa<\/em> spp.) is an ancient flower known for its velvety petals and menacing thorns.<\/p>\n

An inspiration to writers and a classic token of lovers\u2019 affections, it is one of today\u2019s most popular ornamental plants.<\/p>\n

There are heirloom and modern varieties with growth habits<\/strong><\/a> that include miniature, climbing<\/strong><\/a>, rambling, shrub<\/strong><\/a>, and tree forms<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n

Most roses are cold-hardy<\/strong><\/a> to USDA Hardiness Zone 5. If you live in Zone 6 or below, where winter temperatures in the teens and 20s are common, protection is recommended.<\/p>\n

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We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links,\u00a0<\/em>we may earn a commission<\/em><\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

This is a beneficial undertaking, because fluctuating temperatures typical of winter cause alternating cycles of freezing and thawing in the soil, which can damage plant tissue.<\/p>\n

Ironically, the goal is to keep plants consistently cold \u2013 not warm.<\/p>\n

In this article we share ways to insulate roses to minimize temperature variations that can damage plants.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s the lineup:<\/p>\n

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Putting Roses to Bed: Winterizing Methods<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n

A rose\u2019s ability to withstand the rigors of winter is based on decisions made and care provided from day one.<\/p>\n

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Do your homework and select varieties suited to the climate and average temperatures of your growing zone.<\/p>\n

Plant in a location that is not likely to be buffeted by strong winds, such as one sheltered by shrubbery, a wall, or another type of structure.<\/p>\n

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There should be at least six hours of sun exposure per day, and soil that is slightly acidic, organically rich, and well-draining.<\/p>\n

Provide water as needed, remove weeds, prune dead canes, and promptly attend to signs of pests or disease.<\/p>\n

About six weeks before the first average frost date for your region, give your plants their last dose of fertilizer for the year.<\/p>\n

The best choice is a product with no nitrogen (N), to avoid stimulating foliar growth. Late growth may slow dormancy and render plant tissue vulnerable to frost damage.<\/p>\n

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At the end of the season, as roses die and hips form, refrain from snipping them off. Allow your plants to ease into dormancy by avoiding these growth-stimulating actions.<\/p>\n

About four weeks prior to the first frost date for your region, water thoroughly one last time.<\/p>\n

When the canes darken and the leaves change color and then drop, your plants are beginning their descent into dormancy.<\/p>\n

After the first hard frost, it\u2019s time to winterize.<\/p>\n

There are a variety of ways to do this. You may combine methods to protect your plants as desired.<\/p>\n

1. Mounding<\/h2>\n

Mounding, also called hilling, refers to piling soil around the roots to pad them with a layer of insulation.<\/p>\n

If you have grafted bushes, like floribundas, grandifloras, and hybrid teas, you are covering the cold-vulnerable graft union, where the canes above meet the rootstock below.<\/p>\n

The first step is to clear away fallen leaves and debris beneath your plants. This inhibits the wintering over of pests and disease pathogens.<\/p>\n

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With grafted bushes, it\u2019s best to keep heights to about 24 to 28 inches through the cold months to minimize wind damage and exposure to the cold.<\/p>\n

Cut canes on an outward-facing 45-degree angle, just above a leaf node.<\/p>\n

Remove any remaining leaves, diseased foliage, and dead or crossed canes. If there are hips, you may leave them in place.<\/p>\n

Folk wisdom says they inhibit \u201cwinter kill,\u201d the death of stem tips from cold damage.<\/p>\n

Bring in fresh garden soil or compost, and mound it to a height of eight to 10 inches around the base of each plant. Pat it down firmly.<\/p>\n

Do not pull earth from around the plants to mound up. You may disturb the roots and\/or create a depression around the plant that could hold water.<\/p>\n

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After the first hard frost, add a two- to three-inch layer of mulch<\/strong><\/a> over the mounded soil. By waiting until the ground is hard, you avoid attracting nesting mice.<\/p>\n

A generous layer of mulch adds protection and promotes drainage. Good choices are organically-rich bark chips, leaves, pine needles, straw, and wood shavings.<\/p>\n

In regions with little to no snow, a final layer of small fir boughs, cornstalks, or the like will help to keep the mulch in place.<\/p>\n

Get more details on mounding roses here<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n

2. Coning<\/h2>\n

For small bushes with firm canes that are in little danger of wind damage, you may cover the entire plant with a cover called a rose cone.<\/p>\n

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This may be a shelter made of permeable fabric that lets air and water in while inhibiting wind damage and reducing temperature fluctuations, or it may be a breathable hard foam product that is placed over a plant to protect it from cold, precipitation, and wind.<\/p>\n

Some have premade holes through which stakes are placed to secure them to the ground. Those without holes for staking may be weighed down with a brick or rock.<\/p>\n

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Rose Cones<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

You can find rose cones from Walmart<\/a><\/strong>. This product from measures 12 by 12 by 14 inches, and weighting is required.<\/p>\n

You may also make your own covers. They should be ventilated and opaque, to avoid creating a greenhouse effect that stimulates growth.<\/p>\n

3. Binding<\/h2>\n

If you have tall bushes that you don\u2019t want to cut or tuck under a cone, you may use a technique called binding. You may do this before or after mounding the soil.<\/p>\n

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Tie the canes together like a bouquet for greater stability during strong winds. Use twine, lengths of fabric, or heavy gauge wire to avoid injuring the canes.<\/p>\n

Binding is also an excellent way to protect climbing and rambling varieties, especially when combined with mounded soil and mulch.<\/p>\n

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You\u2019ll have to prepare the ground while it is still soft enough to dig. Here\u2019s what you need to do:<\/p>\n

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  1. Remove the plant from its support structure, lay the canes on the ground, and bind the canes loosely with twine.<\/li>\n
  2. Lay the bound canes on the ground to determine their length and the height of the bound bundle.<\/li>\n
  3. Dig a trench below the canes that can accommodate their length, width, and height.<\/li>\n
  4. Cover the canes with soil or compost, mounded about six inches above ground level.<\/li>\n
  5. After the first hard frost, place a two- to three-inch layer of mulch over the soil.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    An alternate method is to lay the canes on top of the soil and cover them with more soil, followed by a layer of mulch.<\/p>\n

    4. Collaring<\/h2>\n

    Collaring is the process of installing a piece of weather-resistant material around your plants that will act as a retaining wall that holds insulating materials in place, minimizing temperature fluctuations, and inhibiting wind damage.<\/p>\n

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    There are numerous choices available, ranging from plastic to wire. If you\u2019re imaginative and have the appropriate materials on hand, you can also make your own.<\/p>\n

    After mounding your soil and fitting your collar, you can fill it to the top with leaves for added protection.<\/p>\n

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    The top remains open when you install a collar, so you can use this method on plants of varying heights.<\/p>\n

    5. Wrapping<\/h2>\n

    Binding and burying long canes are proactive ways to minimize the effects of winter, but what if you can\u2019t remove your plants from their support structures?<\/p>\n

    Cones and collaring are practical solutions for small bushes, but what about large shrubs?<\/p>\n

    The answer is wrapping.<\/p>\n

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    With burlap and twine or stakes, you can protect even the longest, largest, most unwieldy plants.<\/p>\n

    Burlap is a lightweight woven fabric that breathes and is easy to work with. The trick is to wrap plants after the first frost, to make sure mice don\u2019t make a home inside the wrappings.<\/p>\n

    Wrap and tie burlap around climbers and ramblers, covering the canes without disturbing them.<\/p>\n

    For shrubs, we use the burlap as an extra-large collar that can provide a windbreak for shrubs too big for other winter care techniques.<\/p>\n

    Place stakes out about eight to ten inches from a shrub\u2019s perimeter, and wrap burlap around the stakes.<\/p>\n

    The heights of the stakes depend upon the height of your shrubs. The taller the stakes you use, the higher you can wrap the burlap.<\/p>\n

    Use twine to secure the burlap. With its loose weave, you can often push the twine through the burlap like sewing thread.<\/p>\n

    In addition to wrapping climbers, ramblers, and shrubs, you may have standards, or tree roses to protect.<\/p>\n

    These plants are grafted, like the bushes we discussed at the outset; however, the graft is exposed, located on the trunk rather than beneath the soil.<\/p>\n

    To protect it:<\/p>\n

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    1. Wrap the trunk in several layers of burlap and tie it with twine.<\/li>\n
    2. Mound the soil around the base.<\/li>\n
    3. Collar the plant.<\/li>\n
    4. Fill the collar with mulch or leaves.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      You may cut any bulky growth from the top of the dormant tree branches at this time. Use the 45-degree, downward, and outfacing cutting style as we did above.<\/p>\n

      Or, you may cover a bulky tree top in burlap, tying it around the trunk to secure it.<\/p>\n

      There\u2019s also another method suitable for tree varieties, which is called tipping.<\/p>\n

      6. Tipping<\/h2>\n

      Tipping, aka the Minnesota Tip, is a technique favored in the coldest regions.<\/p>\n

      Used for modern roses like hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora, and tree types, it shields the vulnerable graft union.<\/p>\n

      For this method, plants are partially uprooted and laid down in a trench prepared before the ground freezes.<\/p>\n

      After the first hard freeze, the soil is mounded, the plant is collared, and the collar is filled with mulch, for a total depth of 12 inches of insulation over the graft union.<\/p>\n

      Detailed tipping instructions are beyond the scope of this article. Please consult a qualified nursery person before attempting to use this method.<\/p>\n

      Container Options<\/h2>\n

      If you cultivate roses in containers, such as miniature<\/a><\/strong> and tree types, wait for the first hard freeze before taking action.<\/p>\n

      Once the leaves drop, signaling dormancy, move the potted plants to a shed where the temperature will remain cold and the lighting dim, for the duration.<\/p>\n

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      Water a few times during the winter to keep the pot from completely drying out.<\/p>\n

      Alternatively, you can bury potted varieties in the ground. However, the containers must be sturdy enough to withstand freezing, thawing, and extreme cold.<\/p>\n

      Bury the pots while the ground is still soft, placing their rims even with the ground.<\/p>\n

      Cover them with an eight to 10-inch mound of soil or compost.<\/p>\n

      After the first freeze, add a two- to three-inch layer of mulch.<\/p>\n

      You may also collar the plants in their containers above ground, and cover the mound of soil with leaves layered to the top of the collar.<\/p>\n

      Spring Awakening<\/h2>\n

      Insulating roses maximizes their ability to withstand freezing and thawing cycles and cold, drying winds that might otherwise damage plant tissue during dormancy.<\/p>\n

      Keep everything in place until early spring. After the danger of frost has passed, remove all winter protection.<\/p>\n

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      Bring container plants out into the sunshine. Re-tie climbers and ramblers to their trellises, and replant uprooted trees and bushes per nursery instructions.<\/p>\n

      Incorporate the used soil, compost, and mulching materials into the garden, or add them to the compost heap. Add a two- to -three-inch layer of fresh organic mulch, and begin your best practices for cultivation once again.<\/p>\n

      When the first blossoms scent the spring air with their heady perfume, you won\u2019t regret having pampered these icons of beauty and romance.<\/p>\n

      Are you growing roses? How do you care for them in the winter months? Share your tips in the comments section below!<\/p>\n

      For further information about rose care<\/a><\/strong>, you\u2019ll want to read these guides next:<\/p>\n