Sedum x rubrotinctum
Looking for a succulent that’s as tough as it is charming? Sedum x rubrotinctum, commonly known as jelly bean plant or pork and beans, offers both resilience and whimsy.
The plump, candy-colored leaves add a playful element to container arrangements and xeriscapes alike. Their delightfully shaped and brightly colored foliage do, in fact, look a bit like jelly beans.
This herbaceous perennial succulent is a hybrid cross between Sedum pachyphyllum and Sedum stahlii, both stonecrop species that are native to Mexico.
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The succulent, beadlike foliage starts out apple green in spring, gradually blushing in shades of orange, red, and bronze when stressed by full sun or drought, a natural response to protect against sun damage. Come fall, those hues can mellow into soft pink.
In our guide to growing stonecrop we provide an overview of how to cultivate succulents in the Sedum genus.
This article covers everything you need to know about growing jelly bean plants.
Here’s what we’ll be talking about:
Hardy in Zones 9 to 11, jelly bean plants are heat-loving and low-maintenance.
Their tolerance for drought makes them ideal for water-wise gardening, and their cheerful appearance earned them the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 2012.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Jelly bean plant, pork and beans
Plant type: Succulent perennial
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11
Native to: Cultivated hybrid; parent species native to Mexico
Bloom time / season: Spring to summer
Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
Soil type: Loose, sandy, gravelly, well draining
Soil pH: 6.6-7.8, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline
Time to maturity: 2-3 years
Mature size: 6-8 inches tall, up to 24 inches wide
Best uses: Containers, rock gardens, houseplant, ground cover
Taxonomy
Order: Saxifragales
Family: Crassulaceae
Genus: Sedum
Species: × rubrotinctum
A spreading and sprawling sedum that can reach eight inches tall, S. x rubrotinctum has stout, chubby, banana-shaped leaves arranged spirally around fleshy stems creating the jelly bean resemblance that gives this succulent its name.
During the spring and summer months, mature specimens send up clusters of small, star-shaped flowers in bright yellow with red undertones.
Whether you’re planting a rock garden, adding texture to a mixed succulent bowl, or looking for a low-fuss houseplant with flair, S. x rubrotinctum is an excellent choice.
Despite the sugary nickname, this plant isn’t for snacking. It’s toxic to both humans and pets, and the sap can irritate the skin. Handle with care, especially when pruning or propagating.
How to Grow
Jelly bean plants aren’t picky, but giving them the right environment will help them look their best.
Jelly bean plants are hardy in Zones 9 to 11, so if you choose to grow them outdoors in cooler zones, you’ll need to put them in a container that you can bring inside during the cold months.
Indoor temperatures should be somewhere between 60 to 80°F.
Light
Jelly bean plants thrive in bright conditions. Outdoors, they prefer at least six hours of direct sun daily, though some afternoon shade can help prevent scorching in hot climates.
Indoors, provide bright, indirect light – placing them near a south-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These succulents prefer lean, well-draining soil. Organically-rich soil can encourage leggy, floppy growth. Sandy or gravelly soils work well, with an ideal pH between 6.6 and 7.8.
For potted specimens, choose a light, airy mix formulated for succulents and cacti. Make sure your container has drainage holes to prevent water from pooling at the roots.
Water
Once established, jelly bean plants are drought tolerant and rarely need supplemental irrigation when grown outdoors in most climates. Rainfall is usually sufficient.
If you want to be hands-on, or you’re growing indoors, water deeply whenever the soil has completely dried out. Reduce watering in winter when the succulent is semi-dormant.
During the growing season, expect to water more frequently as temperatures rise. Always allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings to avoid rot.
Where to Buy
You can generally find this species in nurseries that carry a good selection of succulents.
If you prefer to shop online, you can find jelly bean plants available at Nature Hills Nursery in #1 containers.
Maintenance
While jelly bean plants thrive on minimal care, a bit of timely attention can go a long way towards keeping them healthy and attractive.
Prune out any stems or leaves that are dead, damaged, or showing signs of disease. This helps improve airflow, prevent the spread of pathogens, and maintain a tidy appearance.
You can learn more about pruning sedum here.
As with any spreading species, if it starts to range out of bounds you can either pull them up or divide your sedum to reduce its footprint – and propagate more specimens!
Additionally, you should keep track of outdoor temperatures if you’re growing outside in climates that are further north than Zone 9.
When temperatures start to dip below freezing, you should bring the sedum inside to keep them alive for the winter.
Propagation
The leaves and stems of S. × rubrotinctum are quite delicate and prone to snapping off when bumped or handled.
But that fragility comes with a silver lining – this species is exceptionally easy to propagate.
From Stem Cuttings
To propagate from stem cuttings, start by filling a seed tray or four-inch container with a well-draining soilless potting medium.
Use a sharp, sterile blade to snip off long, healthy stems, and strip the leaves from the lower half of each cutting.
Allow the cut ends to callus over by setting them out at room temperature in a dry spot for a day or two.
Once callused, insert the defoliated ends into the medium. Keep the container in a location with bright, indirect light and temperatures above 60°F.
Water just enough to moisten the medium without making it soggy. The soil should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, damp, but not wet.
Within a few weeks, the cuttings should develop roots and can be potted up individually.
From Leaf Cuttings
Jelly bean plants can also be propagated from individual leaves. To remove, gently pinch and twist each leaf from the stem.
Discard any that are damaged and retain only whole, healthy ones.
Allow the leaves to callus for a day or two, then place them on their sides on the surface of a well-draining soilless medium that’s lightly moist.
Maintain bright, indirect light and a temperature above 60°F. Keep the medium slightly moist until roots develop, which usually takes a few weeks.
When rooted, each leaf can be transplanted into its own container.
Transplanting
Whether you’ve propagated your own or purchased a potted specimen, transplanting is simple.
Prepare a lean, well-draining growing medium and dig a hole just large enough to accommodate the root system.
Set the plant in place, backfill with soil, and water lightly to settle it in.
Pests and Disease
Jelly bean plants are typically unbothered by deer or rabbits, but a few pests and diseases can still cause trouble, especially if growing conditions aren’t ideal.
Here’s what to watch for:
Pests
Black vine weevils are among the most damaging. The larvae feed on roots below the surface, while adult beetles chew notches into leaf margins at night. Both can weaken the plant.
Beneficial nematodes can be applied to the soil to control larvae. To deter adults, treat foliage with a pyrethrin spray during their active periods in spring and summer.
Aphids, mealybugs, and scale insects may also infest plants, using piercing-sucking mouthparts to drain sap from stems and leaves.
Their feeding weakens the plant and may result in cosmetic damage.
Aphids and scale secrete honeydew, which can attract ants and lead to sooty mold, while mealybugs leave behind clusters of waxy white residue.
Treat infestations by dabbing insects with cotton swabs soaked in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol. Avoid spraying the plant with water to dislodge pests as the foliage is easily damaged.
Slugs and snails are another concern, especially for outdoor specimens. These mollusks feed on leaves and may chew through entire stems near the base.
Handpick them at night or use beer traps to attract and drown them.
Disease
The primary diseases affecting jelly bean plants are stem and root rots, both biotic and abiotic.
These typically result in blackened, mushy, or collapsed foliage. Overwatering is almost always a contributing factor, whether from poor drainage or excessive irrigation.
To prevent rot, water only when the soil is completely dry and ensure it’s well-raining. If symptoms appear, remove and discard affected plants to prevent further spread.
A Real Sweet Hybrid
Not for snacking, but definitely a visual treat, jelly bean plants bring cheerful color and texture to indoor and outdoor spaces alike.
Now that you know how to grow S. × rubrotinctum, you can enjoy its vibrant foliage year-round and thanks to its ease of propagation, it’s easy to share with friends as gifts!
Have questions still? Want to share some pics of your own jelly bean plants for design inspiration? Let us know in the comments section below!
And for more information about growing sedum, add these guides to your reading list next:
