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He built Michigan’s Medicaid work requirement system. Now he’s warning other states : Shots

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An attendee holds a “Stop The Health Care Cuts” sign on June 6 at a Democratic town hall in Lansing, Mich. In July, Congressional Democrats failed to stop Republicans from passing a tax-and-spending bill that requires 40 states and D.C. to institute Medicaid work requirements.

Emily Elconin/Bloomberg via Getty Images


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Emily Elconin/Bloomberg via Getty Images

It was March 2020, and Robert Gordon was about to kick some 80,000 people off health insurance.

As the Michigan state health director, he had just spent the past year, and some $30 million in state tax dollars, trying to avoid doing that very thing.

Gordon was a Democrat, a veteran of the Obama administration, and he didn’t want people to lose the coverage they had recently gained through the Affordable Care Act.

But Gordon and his boss, Democratic governor Gretchen Whitmer, had reluctantly inherited a law passed two years earlier, when Republicans led the state. And that law mandated that Michigan institute work requirements for Medicaid on January 1, 2020.

Gordon and his team managed to determine that most enrollees were already meeting the law’s requirements, either because they were already working or had an exemption. Thousands more reported their status through the newly-built phone and online systems.

But even so, estimates suggested between 80,000 and 100,000 Michiganders were going to be booted off the rolls within the year.

“That’s the population of the city of Flint who were on track to lose their insurance,” said Gordon, who led the state health department until 2021. “We’re implementing this about as well as this thing can be implemented, and it is still going to be pretty catastrophic.”

The new tax-and-spending law signed by President Trump in July will mandate a vast expansion of Medicaid work requirements to most states.

These systems will lead to 4.8 million more people becoming uninsured by 2034, according to estimates from the Congressional Budget Office.

The law applies to 40 states and the District of Columbia, because they expanded Medicaid in recent years to cover more working-age adults.

About 18 million people will be affected once the work mandate is fully implemented nationally. Starting in 2027, they will need to prove they’re working, volunteering or getting job training at least 80 hours a month, in order to keep their coverage.

Robert Gordon, then Michigan's health director, speaks in Lansing in a Dec. 18, 2020 file photo provided by the Michigan Office of the Governor.

Robert Gordon, then Michigan’s health director, speaks in Lansing in a Dec. 18, 2020 file photo provided by the Michigan Office of the Governor.

Michigan Office of the Governor via AP/Michigan Governors Office


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Michigan Office of the Governor via AP/Michigan Governors Office

Republicans say this is a common-sense way to weed out “freeloaders.” Democrats argue that’s just political cover for slashing a program that saved some 27,000 lives between 2010 (when the Affordable Care Act passed) and 2022.

The number of people who lose coverage, either temporarily or permanently, could vary fairly widely by state, depending on how each state implements and maintains their reporting systems.

Michigan’s experience illustrates how challenging it can be to stop large numbers of people from inadvertently losing coverage, even when leaders try their best to prevent that.

“We were very committed to implementing a law that we didn’t agree with, in a way that reduced the number of people who lost insurance, just because the government screwed something up,” Gordon said.

A year’s worth of high-stakes work 

In 2013, then-Governor Rick Snyder, a Republican, waged a fierce battle within his own party to expand Michigan’s Medicaid program.

To Snyder, it was an opportunity to simultaneously save money and expand access: by slashing the rate of uninsured Michiganders almost in half, the state could reduce the burden of uncompensated care on the health system, and boost the economy by improving the physical health of the workforce.

But opponents saw it as an expansion of “Obamacare” that would shift massive new costs onto federal taxpayers. Work requirements became a point of compromise, and a way for Snyder to mollify some of that opposition.

Michigan Gov. Rick Snyder holding up legislation to expand Medicaid eligibility to more low-income adults. The signing ceremony took place at Oakwood Hospital in Dearborn, Mich. on Sept. 16, 2013. At the time, Michigan was the largest state led by Republicans to support Medicaid expansion, a key component of the Affordable Care Act. As a compromise with Republican state lawmakers, Snyder added a provision that the newly-eligible adults would have to meet work requirements.

Michigan Gov. Rick Snyder (R) after signing legislation to expand Medicaid eligibility to more low-income adults, on Sept. 16, 2013, at Oakwood Hospital in Dearborn, Mich. In 2018, Gov. Snyder added a provision that the newly-eligible adults would have to meet work requirements to maintain coverage.

Carlos Osorio/AP


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Carlos Osorio/AP

From a coverage perspective, Michigan’s expansion of Medicaid was a success. Low-income adults signed up, ballooning new enrollment beyond what even supporters had initially estimated.

By 2019, there were nearly 700,000 new Medicaid recipients in Michigan, and the state was responsible for an increasing share of their health care costs (Medicaid is paid for jointly by states and the federal government.)

Fiscal hawks were worried. “It’s now become the largest budget problem in Michigan,” said Jarrett Skorup of the Mackinac Center for Public Policy, a free-market think tank

Snyder signed the bill creating the 80-hour-a-month work requirements in 2018, but it wouldn’t go into effect until 2020, after he left office.

That left newly-elected Democratic Governor Whitmer’s administration holding the bag. She tapped Gordon, who’d held senior roles in the federal Office of Management and Budget and U.S. Department of Education during the Obama administration, to lead the sprawling state health department.

Gordon was terrified of Michigan becoming another Arkansas, which was the first state to implement work requirements, in 2018. The change led to more than 18,000 Arkansas residents losing their coverage.

People in Arkansas were disenrolled “because computers went down, because forms weren’t clear, because they just never heard about it,” Gordon said. “Maybe they got sicker, maybe they died because of this decision.”

If Michiganders lost coverage at the same rate as Arkansans, as many as 180,000 people would lose their health insurance within a year, according to one estimate.

Trying to make Medicaid work requirements … work 

In some ways, Michigan was actually better positioned than other states to implement work requirements, Gordon said. The unemployment rate was fairly low. And the state was already pretty good at collecting and tracking employment and wage data.

“If the state can figure out on its own, without having to ask you if you’re working, that’s great, because then you don’t have to do anything,” Gordon said. “You’re just exempted.”

Democratic Gov. Gretchen Whitmer, right, during an appearance at Care Free Medical, a safety-net clinic in Lansing, on Dec. 2, 2019. Whitmer encouraged uninsured Michiganders to enroll in Medicaid or other coverage through the Affordable Care Act. She was joined by U.S. Rep. Elissa Slotkin, D-Mich., and Dr. Farhan Bhatti, CEO of Care Free Medical.

Democratic Gov. Gretchen Whitmer, right, during an appearance at Care Free Medical, a safety-net clinic in Lansing, on Dec. 2, 2019. Whitmer encouraged uninsured Michiganders to enroll in Medicaid or other coverage through the Affordable Care Act. She was joined by U.S. Rep. Elissa Slotkin, D-Mich., and Dr. Farhan Bhatti, CEO of Care Free Medical.

David Eggert/AP


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David Eggert/AP

Michigan eventually changed the law to allow people more time to report their work activities, and to automatically determine their compliance by cross-checking data from other assistance programs, like food assistance benefits.

To see if recipients were students, or had health-related exemptions, Gordon and his team also tried to capture data from community college enrollment and medical insurance claims.

Dozens of staffers reprogrammed the state’s outdated benefits enrollment portal, created full-time call centers, set up audit and appeals processes, hired compliance review teams, and trained hundreds of local organizers to provide tech and enrollment assistance.

Forms and letters alerting hundreds of thousands of enrollees to the new policy were redesigned to be attention-grabbing and easier to understand.

The sheer amount of effort and time required meant other public health efforts had to take a back seat, Gordon said. “Your first job is going to suffer, and that is a consequence of work requirements.”

In Michigan, black infant mortality rates were some of the highest in the nation. Thousands of people were still dying from overdoses.

Yet at the state health department, “all of the oxygen in the room was dedicated – almost all, I should say – to the work requirement implementation,” said Renuka Tipirneni, MD, MSc, who studies Michigan’s Medicaid expansion at the University of Michigan.

Even after all that work, Gordon and his team had no illusions the system they’d spent $30 million creating was flawless.

“There was a real sense that everyone was doing everything they could,” he said. But they still worried that “huge numbers of people were going to fall through the cracks. Because that’s just what happens with systems like this.”

A “waste” of $30 million 

By the time the work requirements went into effect on Jan. 1, 2020, the state had been able to determine that the vast majority of the nearly 700,000 Medicaid expansion recipients already met the work requirements, or were exempt.

That left about 100,000 people whose status was unknown, and therefore still had to actively go through the reporting process. By March, around 80,000 of those had failed to report, and were on track to eventually lose coverage.

On the one hand, it was a lower rate of coverage loss than Arkansas had. But it was still “an enormous number of people” who would have lost coverage, Gordon said.

Before that could happen, a federal court issued a ruling on March 4, 2020, blocking Michigan’s policies from going forward. That same day, Gordon was scheduled to testify before a Republican-led committee about how the rollout was going.

Instead, he found himself explaining to legislators that the state’s work requirements were essentially dead in the water, and that “we had, on the demand of the people holding the hearing, spent tens of millions of dollars for no purpose.”

Given how brief Michigan’s experiment with Medicaid work requirements actually was — only about three months of the policy being in effect, and no one actually losing coverage in the end — the Mackinac Center’s Skorup doesn’t think there are a lot of takeaways here about the real-life impacts of work requirements.

“If you have an administration that is not sold on these being necessary at all, then they’re more likely to drag their feet on implementing this, which is what I think [the Whitmer administration] did,” Skorup said.

Skorup remains concerned because Medicaid costs keep rising, with 2.6 million Michiganders (one in four residents) now covered by the program. In regards to the state budget, Skorup believes that “at this point, it’s crowding out teacher pay, it’s crowding out pensions, it’s crowding out roads.”

Supporters of Medicaid expansion say the program’s growth has actually benefited Michigan, pointing to research that Medicaid expansion actually helped boost employment and school enrollment, and was a net positive for the state financially.

Court ruling came down just days before state’s first COVID cases

Just days after the court ruling stopped work requirements in Michigan, officials announced the state’s first cases of COVID-19. The 80,000 Michiganders who might have lost Medicaid were spared, so their health coverage continued as the pandemic unfolded. Gordon continued as health director until 2021, when he resigned over “differences of opinion” with Whitmer about some pandemic restrictions.

These days, Gordon is experiencing a sense of déjà vu, with new predictions showing as many as 500,000 Michiganders could lose coverage within the first year of mandated work requirements, according to state estimates.

“We would have a more honest and more efficient policy if Republicans just kick people off Medicaid,” he said.

That would be “incredibly harmful,” he said “But this thing they’re doing isn’t any less harmful. It’s just more wasteful administratively, and more confusing to everyone.”

This story comes from NPR’s health reporting partnership with Michigan Public and KFF Health News.

How to Propagate Dahlias from Cuttings?

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Not just to beautify your garden, you can use Dahlias as cut flowers to improve aesthetics of your living space.

You can grow Dalias easily by dividing tubers, but the number of plants you can propagate through this method depends on the tubers your plant produced during previous year.

Instead, you can propagate Dahlias through cuttings to get exact replica of parent plant.

Growing from cuttings also allows you to propagate any number of plants with few tubers.

Everyone can’t buy tubers to grow dahlias, as they are expensive.

Propagating through cuttings allows a new gardener to experience the joy of growing a whole plant at a fraction of the cost of buying new tubers.

In this write-up you’ll learn two ways of stem cuttings that you can use to grow your own Dahlias. At the end, you’ll also get a brief info on how to propagate from division method.

Before that let’s understand more about the growing requirements of the plant and why it’s important to propagate through stem cuttings.

There are two methods to stem cuttings that you can use to grow your dahlias.

Choose a healthy mother plant and cut it’s stem just below a node. Remove lower leaves and dip it in rooting hormone. Insert the stem cutting in a potting soil mix and wait for 2-3 weeks to see root form.

Second way is to Start with a well-established tuber planted shallowly so its top peeks out. After stems develop, cut at the stem–tuber junction, keeping a small tuber “heel.” Plant in pre-moistened, well-drained medium; maintain high humidity, bright indirect light. Once rooted, pot on and acclimatize.

Growing Requirements of Dahlias

Dahlias prefers full sun—aim for at least 6–8 hours daily—and grow best in warm conditions with soil around 60–70F. In very hot climates, give light afternoon shade to prevent stress and reduced flowering.

Plant in well‑drained soil that’s slightly acidic to neutral (about pH 6–7) and avoid overwatering before shoots emerge to prevent rot. Once growing, water deeply to keep soil evenly moist, and use mulch 2–3 inches thick to cool shallow feeder roots and retain moisture.

Fertilize modestly with blends lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium to encourage blooms over foliage. Space plants for airflow, stake taller varieties early, and consider shade cloth or occasional misting during extreme heat to keep plants productive.

Choose a sunny, wind‑protected site with at least morning light for best results. In consistently hot regions, strategies like afternoon shade, mulching, and regular feeding help dahlias continue to flower through heat spells.

Benefits of Propagating Dahlias through Cuttings

Propagating dahlias from cuttings lets you multiply plants quickly from a single tuber, saving money and space. Because cuttings are clones, they keep the exact flower color, form, and habit of the parent.

Cuttings often root fast and establish earlier than divisions, leading to stronger plants and earlier blooms. It also preserves the original tuber, which can keep producing more shoots.

This method protects rare or expensive varieties by reducing the risk of losing them in storage. It’s easy to do indoors with simple tools, making it great for sharing or producing uniform plants.

How to Grow or Propagate Dahlias from Cuttings?

As mentioned most gardeners rely on purchasing new tubers each season, propagating dahlias from stem cuttings offers an economical and rewarding way to multiply your favorite varieties.

To have successful dahlia propagation your parent plant should exhibit show no signs of pest damage or disease. The mother plant should exhibit strong, robust stems with healthy foliage.

Method 1: Simple Stem Cuttings

Simple stem cutting is the most accessible and widely-used method for propagating dahlias. This technique involves taking a portion of stem that contains at least one node and encouraging it to develop its own root system.

While straightforward in concept, success depends heavily on attention to detail and proper technique throughout the process.

Essential Tools

  • Sharp, clean secateurs or pruning shears: Blade sharpness is crucial for making clean cuts that heal quickly. Dull blades can crush stem tissue, creating entry points for pathogens.
  • Isopropyl alcohol (70%): For sterilizing cutting tools between plants to prevent disease transmission.
  • Clean cloth or paper towels: For wiping tools during the sterilization process
  • Rooting hormone: Available in powder, gel, or liquid forms. Powder formulations often provide longest shelf life, while gels adhere better to stems.
  • High-quality rooting medium: Options include fine coir, perlite-vermiculite mix, seed-starting compost, or specialized cutting compost. The medium must retain moisture while providing excellent drainage.
  • Small containers: 3-4 inch pots work well, or use propagation trays with individual cells.

Step-by-Step Process

1. Timing and Plant Selection

Optimal Timing

The best time for taking dahlia cuttings is during active growth periods, typically from late spring through mid-summer. Early morning is ideal when plants are fully hydrated from overnight moisture recovery.

Selecting Cutting Material

  • Choose stems that are neither too soft (which may rot) nor too woody (which root slowly)
  • Look for stems with 3-4 nodes and healthy, vibrant foliage
  • Avoid flowering stems as they direct energy toward bloom production rather than root development
  • Select stems that are approximately pencil thickness for optimal rooting potential

2. Taking the Perfect Cutting

Cutting Technique

  • Make your cut approximately ¼ inch below a node using a single, swift motion
  • The ideal cutting length is 4-6 inches, ensuring you have at least 2-3 nodes
  • Cut at a slight angle to increase the surface area available for root development
  • Take cuttings during cooler parts of the day to minimize stress

Node Identification
Nodes appear as slight swellings on the stem where leaves emerge. These areas contain concentrated meristematic tissue—undifferentiated cells capable of developing into roots. The area just below a node contains the highest concentration of root-promoting hormones.

3. Advanced Cutting Preparation

Leaf Management Strategy

  • Remove all leaves from the lower half of the cutting to prevent rot and reduce moisture loss
  • For remaining upper leaves, cut them in half horizontally to reduce transpiration while maintaining some photosynthetic capacity
  • Make clean cuts on leaf removal to avoid tearing that could invite disease
  • Leave at least one complete node with growing tip intact at the top

Wound Treatment

  • Allow the cut surface to air dry for 10-15 minutes to form a slight callus
  • This brief drying period helps prevent rot when the cutting is inserted into moist medium
  • In humid conditions, extend this drying time slightly

4. Rooting Hormone Application

Hormone Selection and Application

  • Choose a rooting hormone appropriate for softwood cuttings (typically 0.1-0.3% IBA concentration)
  • Dip only the bottom ½ inch of the stem into powder hormone, tapping off excess
  • For gel formulations, apply a thin, even coating to the cut surface
  • Avoid over-application, which can actually inhibit rooting

Natural Alternatives

  • Willow water: Soak willow twigs in water for 24 hours to create natural rooting hormone
  • Honey solution: Mix one tablespoon honey with two cups warm water for natural antimicrobial properties
  • Cinnamon powder: Can be dusted on cuts for its antifungal properties

5. Planting Medium and Container Setup

Medium Preparation

  • Pre-moisten your chosen medium until it feels like a wrung-out sponge
  • Fill containers, leaving about ½ inch from the rim
  • Create planting holes using a pencil or dibber to avoid damaging the cutting when inserting
  • Ensure drainage holes are clear and functional

Planting Depth and Spacing

  • Insert cuttings deep enough to cover at least one complete node
  • Firm medium gently around the cutting to eliminate air pockets
  • Space multiple cuttings to allow air circulation between them
  • Plant at the same depth the cutting will eventually grow, avoiding too-deep placement

6. Creating Optimal Environmental Conditions

Humidity Management

  • Cover containers with clear plastic to maintain 80-90% humidity
  • Ensure covers don’t touch the cuttings to prevent fungal issues
  • Create ventilation holes if condensation becomes excessive
  • Mist cuttings lightly if humidity levels drop

Temperature Control

  • Maintain consistent temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C)
  • Bottom heat can accelerate rooting—use heating mats set to 70°F
  • Avoid temperature fluctuations which stress developing roots
  • Monitor with a min/max thermometer to track conditions

Light Requirements

  • Provide bright, indirect light equivalent to what you’d find under a tree canopy
  • Avoid direct sunlight which can overheat and stress cuttings
  • Fluorescent lights placed 12-18 inches above cuttings work well for indoor propagation
  • Maintain 12-14 hour photoperiods for optimal results

7. Monitoring and Maintenance

Daily Care Routine

  • Check moisture levels daily, watering when the surface begins to dry
  • Remove any fallen leaves or debris that could harbor disease
  • Monitor for signs of fungal problems such as gray mold or black stem rot
  • Gradually reduce humidity as roots develop by opening ventilation

Signs of Success

  • New growth at the tip typically indicates successful root development
  • Gentle resistance when lightly tugging the cutting suggests root formation
  • Fresh, healthy leaf color and firm stem texture are positive indicators
  • Root development usually begins 10-21 days after planting, varying by variety and conditions

8. Troubleshooting Common Problems

Cutting Failure Issues

  • Wilting: Usually indicates insufficient humidity or overwatering
  • Blackened stems: Often caused by fungal rot from excessive moisture or poor air circulation
  • No root development: May indicate old cutting material, incorrect temperature, or poor hormone application
  • Leaf yellowing: Normal for lower leaves, concerning if affecting all foliage

Recovery Strategies

  • For minor wilting, increase humidity and reduce light intensity temporarily
  • Remove affected plant material immediately to prevent spread of problems
  • Adjust watering frequency based on environmental conditions
  • Consider re-taking cuttings from fresh material if problems persist

Method 2: Stem-and-Tuber Cuttings

The stem-and-tuber cutting method represents an advanced dahlia propagation technique that combines traditional stem cutting principles with the enhanced rooting power of attached tuber tissue.

This method requires advance planning and strategic preparation but consistently delivers superior results compared to simple stem cuttings.

The key innovation lies in taking cuttings that include a small “heel” of tuber tissue, which provides additional stored energy, natural rooting hormones, and improved establishment rates.

While more complex than basic stem cutting, this method often achieves success rates of 80-90% and produces more vigorous plants that establish faster in their permanent locations.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Early Season Tuber Preparation

Plant dahlia tubers in early spring using shallow planting technique, leaving the top ½ to ¾ inch of tuber visible above soil level. Use well-draining potting mix in containers at least 8-10 inches deep. This strategic shallow planting encourages multiple stem development directly from the tuber crown, creating ideal cutting material for harvest in 5-6 weeks.

Step 2: Monitor Stem Development

Wait for stems to reach 4-6 inches tall with healthy green coloration and firm texture. Look for stems with good node spacing and strong attachment points to the tuber.

The optimal cutting window occurs when stems are neither too soft (which may rot) nor too woody (which root slowly). Early morning harvest provides the best plant hydration levels.

Step 3: Prepare Cutting Area

Set up a clean, well-lit workspace with all materials ready. Sterilize cutting tools with alcohol and carefully brush away soil from around stem bases to expose the tuber connection points. This exposure allows you to identify the optimal cutting line where stem meets tuber tissue.

Step 4: Take Precision Cuttings

Using a sharp knife, make cuts at a slight downward angle starting approximately ¼ inch into the tuber tissue. Include a “heel” of tuber tissue about the size of a small coin attached to each stem cutting. The cutting should include 2-3 nodes on the stem portion and maintain clean wound surfaces to prevent disease entry.

Step 5: Treat and Prepare Cuttings

Allow cut surfaces to air dry for 15-30 minutes to form protective callus tissue. Remove lower leaves from the stem while preserving more upper foliage than simple stem cuttings due to the energy reserves in tuber tissue. Optionally dust cut tuber surfaces with fungicidal powder to prevent rot development.

Step 6: Plant with Enhanced Drainage

Plant cuttings in specialized high-drainage medium with extra perlite or coarse sand. Position the tuber portion just at or slightly below soil surface while ensuring at least one stem node is buried. Use deeper containers to accommodate both developing roots and tuber tissue, maintaining natural horizontal orientation.

Step 7: Create Optimal Environment

Establish 85-90% humidity using clear covers while providing gentle air circulation to prevent stagnant conditions around tuber tissue. Maintain consistent temperatures of 68-75°F using bottom heat if available. Provide bright, indirect light equivalent to filtered sunlight conditions.

Monitor Development

Watch for multiple indicators including tuber tissue health, stem vigor, and root development from both stem nodes and tuber tissue. Expect faster development than simple stem cuttings, with root initiation often beginning 5-7 days earlier due to stored energy reserves. Remove any signs of rot immediately.

Conclusion

Stem-and-tuber cuttings offer a reliable, high-success method to propagate dahlias with speed and vigor. By including a small tuber “heel,” cuttings root faster and establish more robustly.

With a bit of early planning and careful technique, this method consistently outperforms simple stem cuttings. It’s ideal for multiplying prized varieties and building a strong, healthy dahlia collection.

15 Best Healthy + Easy Salmon Recipes

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15 Best Healthy + Easy Salmon Recipes

























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Soft Homemade Cat Treats Recipe

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Our family prioritizes healthy, whole foods, so why not do the same for our pets? To my children, pets truly are part of the family. It was their idea to make homemade dog treats for our dog. And now they wanted to make homemade cat treats for our cats, Penelope and Tiger, too (“to be fair”).

Like the dog treats we made for Daisy, these homemade treats contain healthy ingredients cats love. They’re simple to make and store really well in the fridge. Our cats don’t even seem to mind if we don’t heat them up before giving them one. 

These treats are part of the Natural Cat Care & Holistic Alternatives we use to keep our furry friends healthy. Just remember these are treats though and not intended to be a meal replacement. 

Homemade Cat Treats: What You Need

There are so many ways you could make this recipe your own. I’d love to hear how you adapt it for your pets in the comments. Here’s what we used and why:

Coconut Oil

Coconut oil is a definite staple at our house, for both humans and pets. For cats, it’s a great source of healthy fats, especially the medium-chain fatty acids that support digestion and healthy skin. I use it in these homemade treats since coconut oil has natural antibacterial and antifungal properties. 

Cats are naturally carnivores so their systems are designed for fat-based energy. Coconut oil is a nourishing addition that mimics the natural fats they’d get from prey in the wild.

Coconut Flour

Coconut flour is one of my favorite grain-free alternatives when I’m baking for the family. So it made sense to use a little in treats for our cats too. It’s high in fiber, gentle on digestion, and helps everything hold together without using grains. Plus, it blends really well with the coconut oil and eggs, creating a soft texture our cats love.

Cooked Sweet Potatoes

While cats don’t need carbs, sweet potato adds some extra nutrients, especially vitamin A and fiber. It also gives a soft, easy-to-digest base for the treats. I’ve found that when used in moderation, it can be a nice way to add variety and a soft texture. 

Gelatin Powder

 I use gelatin in a lot of homemade recipes, from marshmallows to gummies. It turns out it’s great for pets too. Gelatin is rich in amino acids like glycine and proline, which support healthy skin, fur, and joints. I like to use a bulk grass-fed gelatin to keep it budget-friendly, but any clean gelatin will work. It also helps bind the treats and gives them a chewy texture our cats enjoy.

Tuna (or Sardines)

When in doubt, tuna is always a hit! Most cats can’t resist it. Canned fish like tuna or sardines are not only protein-rich, but they’re full of omega-3 fatty acids that support brain, skin, and coat health. In our house, sardines are a favorite. They’re small, have less mercury, and are packed with nutrients.

Egg

Eggs are a complete protein source, and full of healthy fats and fat-soluble vitamins. I use them in homemade pet treat recipes because they help everything hold together while adding a big nutritional boost. If your cat tolerates eggs well, they’re a simple and affordable way to add some extra nourishment.

I baked these on a baking sheet with natural parchment paper to avoid sticking. They store well in a glass jar in the fridge.

Homemade Cat Treats

  • Peel, cube, and cook the sweet potatoes until tender.

  • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

  • Mix all ingredient in a medium size bowl. Use a fork to mash everything together until evenly mixed and until all large pieces of fish and sweet potato are mashed up.

  • Add a little extra coconut flour if needed to get a dough that’s roughly the consistency of play dough.

  • Roll into 1 inch balls and mash down with a fork to form little “cookies.” I used my fingers on some to make a paw print shape.

  • Bake for 20 minutes or until lightly browned.

  • Remove from heat and let cool completely.

Nutrition Facts

Homemade Cat Treats

Amount Per Serving (1 cat treat)

Calories 49
Calories from Fat 27

% Daily Value*

Fat 3g5%

Saturated Fat 3g19%

Trans Fat 0.001g

Polyunsaturated Fat 0.1g

Monounsaturated Fat 0.2g

Cholesterol 6mg2%

Sodium 23mg1%

Potassium 47mg1%

Carbohydrates 3g1%

Fiber 1g4%

Sugar 1g1%

Protein 3g6%

Vitamin A 1611IU32%

Vitamin C 0.3mg0%

Calcium 6mg1%

Iron 0.2mg1%

* Percent Daily Values are based on a 2000 calorie diet.

Store in the refrigerator for several weeks or in the freezer for several months.

Quality Cat Food

Many of you have asked what cat food we use. I’ve tried different brands over the years and even experimented with making our own. Ultimately, I prefer to leave this in the hands of the experts. We now alternate between a variety of grain-free cat foods (wet, never dry). 

Have you ever made homemade treats for your pets? What are their favorite ingredients? Leave a comment and let us know!

How to Grow and Care for Redwood Trees

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Sequoioideae subfamily

If you wanted to enjoy a redwood tree in the past, you probably thought you had to hop in a car or on a plane and head to the California coast, where towering Sequoia sempervirens reach skyward in ancient groves.

But redwoods of all kinds are beginning to find a home in gardens around the world. I still remember the first time I spotted one growing in someone’s yard. That looks like a redwood, I thought. But could it really be thriving here in Washington state? It was.

Admittedly, some of these trees can be a bit too large for the average yard, since they are well known as some of the tallest trees on the planet.

But not all members of the Sequoioideae subfamily need acres of space. There are species and cultivars that are surprisingly well-suited to landscape use.

A horizontal image of the view up into the canopy of a redwood tree in a forest at sunset.A horizontal image of the view up into the canopy of a redwood tree in a forest at sunset.

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With their conical shape, reddish bark, and broad base, redwoods are instantly recognizable. When young, the bark is somewhat smooth, becoming deeply fissured with age.

That bark is part of what makes these trees so majestic and unique. I can’t walk by one without wanting to run my hands along the trunk.

Imagine having one in your garden. Let’s make it happen. Here’s how:

Redwoods are coniferous trees in the Sequoioideae subfamily. They share a generally similar appearance and growing requirements, though each species has its own unique traits.

This guide will focus on the species that are best suited to home landscapes, particularly the dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides).

That said, if you live in the right climate, you can absolutely grow a coastal redwood (S. sempervirens), too.

A horizontal image of the view up into the canopy of Sequoia trees in a forest with the light reflecting off the evergreen foliage.A horizontal image of the view up into the canopy of Sequoia trees in a forest with the light reflecting off the evergreen foliage.

Keep in mind that the coastal species thrives in cool, humid climates. They absorb much of their moisture from the air, which is why they’re often found in foggy environments.

Without that humidity, they won’t reach their full size, though it’s still possible to grow them in less-than-ideal conditions with some extra effort.

If humidity is lacking in your region, the giant redwood (Sequoiadendron giganteum) might be a better choice.

These towering trees are native to drier areas at higher-elevations than the coastal species, though they still prefer cool temperatures.

A close up horizontal image of the bright green leaves of a Metasequoia.A close up horizontal image of the bright green leaves of a Metasequoia.

Then there’s the dawn redwood. The genus name Metasequoia means “sequoia-like,” and they do indeed resemble their close cousins.

But they’re far easier to grow than the coast or giant species, and they bring a unique twist. Unlike most conifers, this species is deciduous.

Along with larches (Larix spp.) and bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), dawn redwoods are among the few conifers that drop their needles in fall and grow new foliage in spring.

The soft, feathery needles emerge a deep green and turn a lovely bronze-red in autumn before falling.

The needles on all types are soft to the touch, which means you can plant them near a patio or walkway without fear of being stabbed by sharp needles.

Quick Look

Common name(s): Redwood

Plant type: Evergreen or deciduous conifer

Hardiness (USDA Zone): 4-10

Native to: China, United States

Bloom time / season: Year round

Exposure: Full sun to partial sun

Soil type: Loose, humus-rich, well-draining

Soil pH: 4.5-7.5, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline

Time to maturity: 50+ years

Mature size: Up to 350 feet tall (depending on species)

Best uses: Specimen

Taxonomy

Order: Cupressales

Family: Cupressaceae

Subfamily: Sequoioideae

Genus: Metasequoia, Sequoia, Sequoiadendron

Species: Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Sequoia sempervirens, Sequoiadendron giganteum

These trees thrive in moist soil and are extremely large. In the wild, they’re endangered and face threats from poachers, fire, and habitat loss.

Coastal redwoods are the tallest trees on Earth, growing over 350 feet high. Giant redwoods aren’t far behind, reaching over 300 feet tall.

Dawn redwoods are more modest, typically topping out around 160 feet in the wild, and often maturing to about half that size in cultivation. Dwarf and compact cultivars make them even more accessible for smaller spaces.

Dawn redwoods are hardy in Zones 4 to 8, giants in Zones 6 to 9, and coast in Zones 7 to 10. While both coastal and giant species are native to North America, dawn redwoods hail from China.

A horizontal image of a mature dawn redwood tree growing in a botanical garden.A horizontal image of a mature dawn redwood tree growing in a botanical garden.
Dawn redwood.

Fossil evidence shows that dawn redwoods were once widespread across the Northern Hemisphere, but they were believed to be extinct until 1941. That year, a forester named T. Kan discovered a living specimen near Modaoqi, China.

Soon after, a team of botanists and redwood enthusiasts journeyed to the region and found thousands of dawn redwoods growing in low-lying rice fields.

These trees were being used for timber and fodder, and the landscape had likely once supported far more before agricultural development.

Specimens were collected, and in 1947 the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University sponsored an expedition to gather seeds.

Many of the dawn redwoods grown today descend from those original collections, which were shared widely with institutions and gardeners around the world. Some of the earliest specimens still thrive at the Missouri Botanical Garden, in front of the Lehmann Building.

Thanks to this distribution effort, this species is now widely available and easy to grow. Here’s how:

How to Grow

Redwoods tolerate some pretty challenging conditions, like road salt, pollution, and occasional flooding.

What they don’t handle well is extreme heat, prolonged drought, or excessive humidity. Let’s break down what they need to thrive:

Climate

Coast types prefer mild conditions with temperatures typically ranging between 35 and 95°F. They can handle temperatures just outside this range, but prolonged cold or heat may take its toll.

A horizontal image of giant Sequoia trees with snow on the ground during winter.A horizontal image of giant Sequoia trees with snow on the ground during winter.

Giants are a bit more cold-tolerant, surviving winter lows of about 15°F.

Dawn redwoods are the hardiest, they can thrive in regions with frigid winters, tolerating temperatures as low as -30°F and they’ll remain happy up to around 85°F.

Occasional heat spikes beyond that are fine, especially once established.

Light

Young specimens benefit from partial sun, especially in hot climates.

A horizontal image of the sun's rays coming through the trees in a Sequoia forest.A horizontal image of the sun's rays coming through the trees in a Sequoia forest.

Dawn redwoods in particular may suffer from scorched foliage if planted in full sun in regions with intense summer heat.

Some afternoon shade can help protect young trees until they grow tall enough to rise above neighboring vegetation.

In cooler regions, full sun is ideal, especially for dawn redwoods, which will reward you with more vivid bronze-red fall color if they receive ample sunlight.

Those grown in partial shade may show more muted foliage in autumn.

Soil

All redwood species prefer slightly acidic, humus-rich soil with good drainage. A bit of sand in the mix is welcome, but heavy clay or compacted soils are not.

Dawn redwoods are the most flexible, capable of tolerating a pH down to 4.5 and even neutral conditions. Coast and giant types prefer a pH in the range of 5.5 to 7.5.

For all three, keeping the roots cool is essential. When trees are young, mulch well with shredded bark or composted leaves to insulate the soil and retain moisture.

As they mature, their own canopy will help shade the root zone.

Avoid planting in compacted, poorly draining, or alkaline soils.

Water

No matter the species, you want to keep the soil moist at all times. It’s not the end of the world if the soil dries out temporarily, but extended drought is a problem.

A horizontal image of redwood trees in a forest encased by fog.A horizontal image of redwood trees in a forest encased by fog.

Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when trees are young. Water deeply when the top few inches of soil begin to dry out.

These trees can also tolerate occasional flooding and excess moisture, so they’re pretty adaptable.

Coast types are happy with up to 122 inches of annual rain and lots of humidity, with most of it occurring in the winter. Giant redwoods need less water, up to 55 inches per year, with most rainfall happening in the winter.

If natural rainfall isn’t sufficient, mimic these patterns by irrigating more frequently during the cool months and reducing water in the summer, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

Dawn redwoods are highly adaptable. While they prefer consistently moist soil, they’ll tolerate temporary drought and even some standing water.

Fertilizing

Before applying any fertilizer, it’s always a good idea to do a soil test. It’s easy and affordable, and your local extension office can help guide you through the process.

A soil test will reveal what nutrients are already present and help you avoid overfertilizing or applying unnecessary amendments. You’ll also receive tailored recommendations based on your regional soil conditions.

In general, healthy specimens don’t need regular feeding unless the soil is depleted. Let your test results guide you to make informed decisions that support long-term tree health.

Where to Buy

You can sometimes find these trees at a local nursery, especially if they do well in your region. Dawn redwoods are the most commonly available, and they’re also widely sold online.

A square image of a large dawn redwood growing in a central island of a road pictured in bright sunshine on a blue sky background.A square image of a large dawn redwood growing in a central island of a road pictured in bright sunshine on a blue sky background.

Dawn Redwood

For example you can find the species available at Fast Growing Trees.

But if you want to dip your toe in some of the exceptional cultivars out there, here are a few we recommend:

Amber Glow

Amber Glow™ takes the majestic form of the dawn redwood and scales it down to a more manageable size.

Reaching just 40 feet tall and 20 feet wide, it fits beautifully into most home landscapes.

A square image of two 'Amber Glow' trees with fall coloration growing in a park like setting.A square image of two 'Amber Glow' trees with fall coloration growing in a park like setting.

Amber Glow

The summer foliage is tinged with yellow and turns a gentle golden orange hue in the fall. Hardy in Zones 5 to 9.

You can find Amber Glow™ available at Fast Growing Trees.

Miss Grace

‘Miss Grace’ has an elegant, weeping habit that brings graceful movement to the garden.

Left unstaked, it forms a low, broad pyramid, growing up to 10 feet tall and three feet wide. With support, it can be trained into a more upright, cascading form.

A vertical image of a small sapling of a 'Miss Grace' Metasequoia growing in a pot set outdoors.A vertical image of a small sapling of a 'Miss Grace' Metasequoia growing in a pot set outdoors.

The gray-green summer foliage gives way to a rich, deep orange in autumn.

This cultivar was discovered as a witches’-broom in New York and developed by Buchholz & Buchholz Nursery in Gaston, Oregon.

It was the first weeping dawn redwood introduced to the market and is hardy in Zones 5 to 9. It even tolerates wet soil conditions.

North Light

If space is limited, consider ‘North Light.’

This compact cultivar forms a tidy, globe-shaped shrub, slowly reaching just five feet tall and wide. It tolerates a range of light conditions, from full sun to partial shade.

The foliage is variegated with creamy yellow highlights in spring and summer, transitioning to a brilliant copper-orange in fall.

A low-maintenance option for Zones 5 to 9, ‘North Light’ provides reliable, ever-changing color in a pint-sized package.

Maintenance

I think one of the reasons conifers are so popular is that they need so little maintenance and redwoods are no exception.

A close up vertical image of a small yellow Labrador retriever sitting on the ground in a redwood forest.A close up vertical image of a small yellow Labrador retriever sitting on the ground in a redwood forest.
Photo by Clare Groom.

Occasionally, a branch may die back or break during strong winds.

When that happens, simply prune it off using clean, sharp pruners, loppers, or a saw, depending on the size. You should also remove any branches that show signs of pest damage or disease.

The only other time you’ll need to break out the tools is during a tree’s early years, when you may want to shape it or encourage a specific form.

Pruning for structure is best done in early spring, just before new growth begins to emerge.

Propagation

Redwoods don’t graft reliably, but you can propagate them from seeds or cuttings. The easiest way to get started is to purchase a sapling from a nursery and transplant it into your garden.

A close up vertical image of the bright green foliage of Amber Glow redwood tree.A close up vertical image of the bright green foliage of Amber Glow redwood tree.

If you come across a particularly beautiful specimen, consider collecting a cone or taking a cutting, with permission, of course, to start one of your own.

It’s always a good idea to start a few more trees than you think you’ll need. Germination and rooting rates can vary, and any extras make excellent gifts.

From Seed

It’s entirely possible to grow redwoods from seed, and many conservation groups and commercial nurseries rely on this method to preserve genetic diversity.

A close up horizontal image of an outstretched hand holding a cone from a Sequoia conifer pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of an outstretched hand holding a cone from a Sequoia conifer pictured on a soft focus background.

To start, harvest seeds from a mature cone and sow them in an appropriate medium. With time and care, a tiny seedling will emerge – your first step toward a towering tree.

Follow the steps in our guide to growing pines from seed and you’ll be on your way.

Whether started from seed or cuttings, redwoods – and indeed most conifers – tend to grow bushy at first. It may take a few years before a strong central leader develops.

There’s no need to prune to encourage this, although you can remove any particularly awkward or obstructive branches.

From Cuttings

Cuttings provide a faster route to a mature specimen. When you start from seed, it takes years longer for a tree to mature.

A close up horizontal image of the new spring growth of a Metasequoia pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of the new spring growth of a Metasequoia pictured on a soft focus background.

Take semi-hardwood cuttings from the end of a branch in late spring or early summer, just as the new growth has started to harden.

Aim for a piece that’s at least six inches long. Sprouts from the base of the tree often root best.

Strip the lower two-thirds of foliage from the cutting, leaving only a few leaves at the top.

Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then insert it into a gallon-sized container filled with potting mix. Firm the soil around the cutting to hold it upright.

Place the pot in a location with full or partial sun and keep the soil evenly moist, not soggy, and never completely dry. It should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge.

Allow the cutting to grow in the container for at least a year, until it develops strong new growth and a robust root system. When it’s ready, transplant it into the ground in early spring or late fall.

Transplanting

Whether you’ve started your redwood from seed, rooted a cutting, or purchased a young tree from a nursery, eventually it’s time to plant it in the ground.

A close up top down image of a redwood seedling growing in a pot.A close up top down image of a redwood seedling growing in a pot.

Select a site that offers plenty of space. Redwoods are not foundation plants.

I once watched a 100-foot redwood topple in a storm, planted far too close to a house, it had grown at an angle reaching for light and eventually fell during a heavy wind and ice event, crushing two cars. Don’t let that be you.

Dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball. This gives you room to spread the roots and ensures they aren’t compacted in the planting zone.

Remove the plant from its container and gently tease the roots outward. If the roots are spiraled or tightly packed, loosening them will help prevent future girdling or root binding that can damage or kill the tree.

Place the tree in the hole so the top of the root ball sits level with the surrounding soil. Adjust the depth if needed by adding or removing soil from the base of the hole.

Once it’s in place, backfill with soil, water thoroughly, and add more soil if needed to compensate for settling.

Pests and Disease

Planted in the right conditions and with the right care, these trees are pretty much untroubled by pests and disease.

Encountering problems is rare unless the tree is planting in the wrong soil, climate, or receives too much or too little water.

Pests

With the climate warming, these impervious trees have recently begun to experience some pest troubles. Let’s talk about those.

Scale

Rarely, scale will feed on redwoods. These flat, oval insects suck the sap out of the tree using their straw-like mouthparts. This causes yellowing needles and reduced vigor.

There are three kinds of scale that attack these trees: black araucaria (Lindingaspis rossi), juniper (Carulaspis juniperi), and redwood scale (Aonidia shastae).

Regardless of the species, learn how to deal with them in our guide to scale.

Spider Mites

Is there any plant that isn’t susceptible to attack from spider mites?

Particularly in the dry summer season, spider mites spin fine webs on the tree and use their sucking mouthparts to draw out sap.

A close up horizontal image of a red spider mite in high magnification on the bark of a tree.A close up horizontal image of a red spider mite in high magnification on the bark of a tree.

As they feed, needles turn yellow and drop and, with a large enough infestation, growth might be stunted.

Learn how to tackle spider mites here.

Bark Beetles

For a long time, redwoods were considered impervious to pests, protected by their thick bark and massive size.

But in recent years, bark beetles have begun to challenge even the oldest and most resilient trees.

If they can threaten giants that have stood for centuries, they can certainly impact your young backyard specimen.

A close up horizontal image of a western pine beetle on a piece of tree bark pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a western pine beetle on a piece of tree bark pictured on a soft focus background.

Bark beetles have devastated conifer forests across the western US, and redwoods are now on the menu.

The primary culprits include the western cedar bark beetle (Phloeosinus punctatus), as well as P. cupressi and P. aubei, which also attack cedar and cypress.

These beetles tunnel beneath the bark of twigs, branches, and trunks, leaving behind telltale signs: oozing sap, small exit holes, and sawdust-like frass. If you peel back the bark, you’ll see winding galleries that resemble tangled spaghetti.

While a beetle infestation alone typically isn’t enough to kill a healthy tree, it can tip the scales when combined with stressors like drought or root damage.

Unfortunately, once bark beetles invade, there’s little you can do to stop them. The best defense is prevention. Keep your tree healthy with consistent moisture, proper planting, and protection from mechanical damage.

Encouraging natural predators like woodpeckers and parasitic wasps can also help reduce beetle populations. Maintaining a diverse garden environment gives your trees the best chance of staying beetle-free.

Disease

Trees in a frequently soggy location might experience Phytophthora crown or root rot.

This disease needs moist conditions to thrive and often hitches a ride on infected plants from nurseries.

That’s why it’s always a good idea to isolate new plants for a few weeks before putting them in your garden.

Trees planted in poorly draining or consistently soggy soil may fall victim to Phytophthora crown or root rot. This fungal-like pathogen thrives in wet conditions and often spreads through infected nursery stock.

Symptoms of Phytophthora include sudden decline, dieback, or visible rot around the crown or roots. If you dig around the base and find mushy, discolored roots, your tree may be infected.

Unfortunately, there’s little you can do if the disease has progressed significantly. If caught early, however, you can try to improve drainage and treat the affected tree with a fungicide.

Products containing copper or the beneficial bacterium Bacillus subtilis are effective options.

I’ve found CEASE, a biofungicide that harnesses Bacillus subtilis, to be particularly effective against this and other common soilborne pathogens.

A close up of a jug of CEASE biofungicide isolated on a white background.A close up of a jug of CEASE biofungicide isolated on a white background.

CEASE Biofungicide

It’s available in gallon and 2.5-gallon sizes at Arbico Organics.

Bring The Majesty of a Redwood Forest to Your Space

Walking through a redwood forest is an unforgettable experience, but even a single tree in a backyard setting can be just as majestic.

A horizontal image of a gravel road winding through a forest of giant redwoods.A horizontal image of a gravel road winding through a forest of giant redwoods.

I’ve found myself stopping mid-stride to admire a redwood growing in a neighbor’s yard. These trees have a presence that’s hard to describe and impossible to ignore.

Whether you’re planting a dawn redwood for its manageable size and brilliant fall color, or making room for one of the true giants, you’re adding a piece of living history to your landscape.

Plus, once they mature, redwoods are remarkably self-sufficient. Is it the rugged red bark that draws you in? Their easygoing nature? Or the sheer grandeur of their height? Let us know in the comments section below!

And for more information about growing coniferous trees in your landscape, add these guides to your reading list next:

Ultra-processed foods still make up more than 50% of Americans’ calories : Shots

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There isn’t a standard definition of ultra-processed foods, but all the foods pictured fit the bill. They contain added fat, sugar or salt, plus preservatives to extend their shelf-life.

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The consumption of ultra-processed foods is on a slow decline, though most Americans — and especially children — are getting most of their calories from unhealthy, manufactured foods, according to new data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

The mean percentage of total calories consumed from ultra-processed foods (UPFs) eaten by everyone age 1 and older was 55%, during August 2021 and 2023, when the National Center for Health Statistics conducted its survey. The survey underscored a persistent difference by age; among those between the ages of 1 and 18, the mean consumption of UPFs was higher, 61.9% of calories. Those 19 and older consumed less, at 53%.

Cheap, convenient and tasty

The Trump administration has blamed ultra-processed food for many chronic diseases, including diabetes, and the increasing availability of UPFs has helped drive obesity rates worldwide.

But there is no standard definition of what constitutes an ultra-processed food, though they are generally energy rich foods with little nutritional value, containing added fats, sugars and chemicals to preserve their shelf life and make them very palatable. In short, they are manufactured to be cheap, convenient and tasty. Foods like sandwiches, including hamburgers, as well as snacks and sugary beverages made up a large portion of the ultra-processed foods consumed.

The trend in U.S. consumption over the past two decades has been a bit mixed. Consumption of UPFs fell for a couple years after 2013, then increased, and has been trending down slightly since this survey was last conducted in 2017-2018, according to the data brief on the study.

The study was conducted every two years since 1999-2000 until the cycle was interrupted during the pandemic, CDC spokesperson Brian Tsai wrote to NPR.

Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. wants to curtail the prevalence of ultra-processed foods in the American diet. Here is recent coverage from NPR on the topic:

Cindy’s Orange, Chartreuse, and Purple Designs in New York

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Hi GPODers!

Garden design incorporates many elements that lend to a space’s interest and style. For example, diverse textures and forms are both essential for dazzling displays. However, during the peak of the growing season, no matter what kinds of plants you grow, we’re all looking to enjoy more color! One gardener savoring the height of color in her landscape is Cindy from Rochester, New York. Cindy has shared her lush and lively garden twice in the past (Cindy’s Garden in New York and A Garden Through the Seasons), but a lot has evolved since then, and there are plenty of new plants and combinations to enjoy.

I have been gardening in this spot in Rochester, New York, for 13 years. I love orange, chartreuse, and purple. This is the time when the colors are bold and working together to create an explosion before going to seed. We converted a previous owner’s 30-foot veg garden into a pollinator buffet. There is a vast mix including goat’s beard (Aruncus dioicus, Zones 4–8), digitalis, poppies, echinacea, phlox, black cohosh (Actaea racemosa, Zones 3–8)—a bee magnet, fennel, campanula, betony, and for scent—buddleia and Henry’s sweetspire (Itea virginica ‘Henry’s Garnet’, Zones 5–9). To break up the lawn space, we added an island of shrubs: male ilex, viburnum, fothergilla, mixed with obedient (Physostegia virginiana, Zones 2–8), Fireworks solidago (Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’, Zones 4–8), and others.

There is a small water feature that serves as a toad nursery and watering hole. The deer for the most part stay away, due to sight-blocking foliage along the fence line, spray, winter fencing, and the fearless canine!

garden patioCindy’s gardens surround her back deck, which offers ample seating for all her guests to enjoy the riot of color that erupts from every corner of her landscape.

pink flowers with white dogwoodA bright white Kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa, Zones 5–8) is the perfect backdrop for this vignette of goat’s beard, ‘Dark Towers’ penstemon (Penstemon ‘Dark Towers’, Zones 5–8), and lofty foxgloves.

bright orange and yellow flowers with dark foliageWhat a treat to find a plant that features two of your favorite garden colors! Burning Hearts false sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides var. scabra ‘Burning Hearts’, Zones 3–9) doesn’t need perfectly planned pairings because the combination of bright orange and yellow flowers with dark green and purple foliage is enticing all by itself.

group of container plants with bright foliage and flowersThis grouping of containers on Cindy’s deck is a delicious mix of citrusy colors, and a large planting of Candy Corn spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘NCSX1’, Zones 4–8) is the perfect complement in the background.

garden with lots of bright flowersA small path leading you to the back half of Cindy’s gardens takes you through another chorus of delightful plant color. A large oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia, Zones 5–9) anchors the design on the left side.

shade garden with dark foliage plantsIn a shadier area of her garden, Cindy relies on foliage to keep the interest and color going. This corner features mostly greenery, but a small purple Japanese maple allows her to still incorporate her favorite color theme.

dog laying on garden patioAnd here is Cindy’s fearless canine! Some downtime sunbathing on the deck is well earned after all that hard work protecting the garden.

tall spires of white flowersWhere color is a little more subdued, like this mostly white planting of Goat’s beard with black cohosh and Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum x superbum, Zones 4–9), Cindy smartly turns to texture to provide plenty of interest and contrast.

container with dark foliage plantsOne final container on her deck brings even more color to this entryway. A ‘Tickled Pink’ euphorbia (Euphorbia ‘Tickled Pink’, annual), Pegasus® begonia (Begonia ‘Pegasus’, Zones 9–11 or as an annual) and tiny fuchsia plant is the perfect marriage of moody foliage and bright pink flowers.

Thank you so much for this fabulous update on your garden, Cindy! Your ability to fill your space with so much color without making it feel chaotic or overwhelming is impressive.

What are your favorite colors to use in the garden? Do you stick to a strict color palette, or do you find ways to incorporate an endless mix of colors with some unifying shades to tie them all together? Let us know in the comments, or consider sharing your garden color with Garden Photo of the Day! Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.

 

We want to see YOUR garden!

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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How to Grow and Care Anise Hyssop?

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As a self-sustainable gardener, I prefer to grow edible plants in my backyard. But ecological role played by ornamental plants can’t be denied.

Flowering plants are known to attract pollinators to the garden that can increase your yield. Apart from this, vibrant blossoms leave a positive impact on your mental health.

Anise hyssop is an herbaceous perennial with blue flowers, which you can grow as an ornamental or an herbal plant.

Not just the appearance Anise hyssop gives similar scent as anise and some compare it with basil.

Depending on the variety you choose to grow, this plant produces blue-lavender to purple flowers that blooms from mid-summer to early fall.

Excellent thing about this herbaceous plant is it has immense benefits.

You can grow to attract pollinators, mitigate pests, as an ornamental plant, use as cut flowers or use it’s leaves to make an herbal tea.

Native to North America and hardy to USDA zones 3-8, Anise hyssop can be grown from seeds or propagated through cuttings.

I’ll shall discuss both ways of growing anise hyssop later in this article. Before that let’s know about the growing requirements of the plant.

Growing Requirements of Anise Hyssop

Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) is adaptable plant that requires minimal maintenance while providing beautiful purple-blue flower spikes from midsummer through fall.

Sunlight Requirements: Anise hyssop performs best in full sun (6+ hours of direct sunlight daily) but tolerates partial shade (4-6 hours). In partial shade, plants may become leggier and produce fewer blooms.

Soil Conditions: The plant tolerates a wide range of soil types, from sandy loam to clay loam and even rocky conditions. Good drainage is essential, as anise hyssop is susceptible to root rot in wet soils. It prefers slightly acidic, well-draining soil.

Water Requirements: Once established, anise hyssop is drought-tolerant and prefers medium-moist to dry soil conditions. Avoid overwatering or planting in areas prone to flooding, as excess moisture can cause fatal root rot. Water regularly during establishment, then allow soil to dry between waterings.

Temperature: The plant thrives in warm season temperatures between 65-85°F and cannot tolerate frost.

Spacing and Maintenance: Plant seedlings 18-24 inches apart to ensure adequate airflow. Annual compost application provides sufficient fertilization. The plant self-seeds readily and spreads via rhizomes.

Deadheading promotes continued blooming, while light pruning encourages branching. Plants rarely need staking despite reaching 2-4 feet tall.

How to Grow Anise Hyssop?

Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) stands out as one of the most rewarding herbs for both novice and experienced gardeners.

This fragrant, bee-friendly perennial combines ornamental beauty with culinary versatility, making it an excellent addition to herb gardens, pollinator gardens, and mixed borders.

Its licorice-scented foliage and striking flower spikes create visual impact while attracting beneficial insects throughout the growing season.

How to Grow Anise Hyssop Seeds?

Direct Seeding: Sow seeds directly in the garden after the last frost date in spring. Scatter seeds on the soil surface without covering them, as anise hyssop seeds require light for germination.

Keep the seedbed consistently moist for 14-21 days until germination occurs. Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart once they reach 2-3 inches tall.

Indoor Seed Starting: Begin seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost. Use seed-starting trays filled with quality potting mix.

Maintain soil temperature at 65-70°F for optimal germination. Provide bright light or supplemental grow lights once seedlings emerge. Transplant outdoors after hardening off for 7-10 days.

Also Read: How to Care for Pansies in Pots?

Propagating Anise Hyssop

Anise hyssop propagation offers gardeners two reliable methods to multiply their plants and create new specimens for expanded plantings or sharing with fellow gardeners.

Division Method

Plant Selection and Timing

Choose well-established anise hyssop plants that are at least 2-3 years old with robust root systems and multiple growing crowns.

Spring division (early April to May) is ideal as plants have the entire growing season to establish, while fall division should occur 6-8 weeks before the first hard frost to allow adequate root development.

Division Process

Begin by watering the parent plant thoroughly 24 hours before division to ensure tissues are well-hydrated. Use a sharp spade to cut straight down through the center of the plant while still in the ground, creating sections 4-6 inches wide.

Each division must contain both healthy roots and visible growing shoots or buds. Lift sections carefully, preserving as much root mass as possible. Trim any damaged or broken roots with clean, sharp pruning shears.

Post-Division Care

Plant divisions immediately at the same soil depth as the original plant. Space new divisions 18-24 inches apart in well-prepared soil.

Water thoroughly after planting and maintain consistent moisture for 3-4 weeks until new growth appears, indicating successful establishment.

Also Read: How to Fertilize Zinnias?

Propagating through Stem Cutting

Cutting Selection: In early summer, select healthy, semi-mature stems that are neither too soft nor completely woody.

Avoid flowering stems, as they root less successfully. Take 4-6 inch cuttings in early morning when plants are fully hydrated.

Preparation and Rooting: Remove all leaves from the bottom half of each cutting, leaving 4-6 leaves at the top.

Dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder or gel to accelerate root development.

Plant in a well-draining mix of equal parts peat moss and perlite, maintaining consistent moisture and humidity until roots form in 3-4 weeks.

How to Grow Anise Hyssop in Pots?

Anise hyssop adapts exceptionally well to container cultivation, making it perfect for patios, balconies, and small gardens.

Use pots at least 12 inches wide and deep with drainage holes to accommodate the plant’s root system and prevent waterlogging. For optimal growth, choose containers 16-18 inches wide for mature plants or multiple specimens.

Fill containers with high-quality potting mix blended with compost for nutrition and perlite for drainage. Avoid garden soil, which compacts in containers.

Place containers in full sun locations receiving 6+ hours of direct sunlight daily, though partial shade is tolerated.

  • Container plants require more frequent watering than garden specimens due to faster soil drying. Check moisture daily by inserting your finger 2 inches deep.
  • Water thoroughly until excess drains from holes, then allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. Never let plants sit in waterlogged soil.
  • Apply diluted liquid fertilizer monthly during growing season. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming.
  • In winter, reduce watering and move containers to protected locations in harsh climates. Repot every 2-3 years with fresh growing medium.

Must Read: How to Grow and Care Columbine Plant?

How to Care for Anise Hyssop?

Anise hyssop is remarkably low-maintenance once established, making it an ideal choice for both novice and experienced gardeners. This hardy perennial thrives with minimal intervention while providing continuous blooms and aromatic foliage throughout the growing season.

Watering Requirements

Water newly planted anise hyssop regularly for 4-6 weeks until established, then allow soil to dry between waterings. Check moisture 2-3 inches deep before watering. Overwatering causes root rot, the most common mistake.

Container plants need more frequent watering than garden plants but never allow standing water. During hot weather, containers may need daily watering while established garden plants survive on rainfall. Reduce winter watering significantly.

Soil and Drainage

Anise hyssop tolerates various soil types but requires excellent drainage. It prefers lean, well-draining soil and performs better in poor to average conditions than overly rich soils. Amend heavy clay with compost, perlite, or coarse sand.

Test drainage by digging a 12-inch hole and filling with water—if water remains after 24 hours, improvements are needed. Add 2-3 inches of organic mulch to maintain consistent moisture while preventing water pooling around the crown.

Fertilization and Feeding

Anise hyssop thrives in lean conditions and requires minimal fertilization. Overfertilizing can actually reduce the plant’s essential oil content and make it more susceptible to diseases and pests.

For garden plants, apply a thin layer of compost in early spring, which provides gentle, slow-release nutrition.

Container plants may benefit from occasional feeding with diluted liquid seaweed fertilizer or compost tea during the growing season, applied monthly at half-strength.

Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which promote excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers and fragrance.

Pruning and Deadheading

Regular pruning maintains plant health and encourages blooming. Cut dormant stems to ground level in early spring. Pinch growing tips at 8-10 inches for bushier growth.

Deadhead spent flowers for continuous blooms, or leave some for seeds and bird food. Cut back to 4-6 inches after first frost, or leave standing for winter interest. Remove damaged growth as needed.

Pest and Disease Management

Anise hyssop is naturally resistant to most pests and diseases when grown in proper conditions. The plant actually repels many garden pests, including flea beetles and cabbage moths, making it valuable as a companion plant.

Potential pest issues include spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies, though these are uncommon on healthy plants. Leafhoppers may occasionally cause white or yellow mottling on leaves, but natural predators usually control their populations without intervention.

Disease problems are primarily moisture-related and include root rot, powdery mildew, and fungal leaf spots. These issues are best prevented through proper cultural practices: ensuring excellent drainage, providing good air circulation, avoiding overhead watering, and not overcrowding plants.

Also Read: How to Grow Celosia – Ultimate Planting Guide

How Tall Does Anise Hyssop Grow?

Anise hyssop typically reaches a mature height of 2-4 feet (60-120 cm), with some varieties growing as tall as 5 feet under optimal conditions.

The plant develops an upright, clumping growth habit with square stems characteristic of the mint family, and most varieties maintain their sturdy form without requiring staking despite their height.

The specific height can vary based on growing conditions, with plants in rich, moist soil often reaching the upper end of this range.

The plant’s spread is generally more modest, ranging from 1-3 feet wide (30-90 cm), though it will gradually expand over time through rhizomes and self-seeding.

For container growing, anise hyssop can be kept more compact through regular pinching and pruning, typically maintaining a height of 24-36 inches when managed this way.

The long flower spikes that top the stems add an additional 4-6 inches to the plant’s overall height during the blooming period from midsummer through fall.

Also Read: How to Grow Blanket Flower?

Conclusion

Anise hyssop is an exceptional low-maintenance perennial offering beauty, fragrance, and ecological benefits. This hardy herb thrives in gardens or containers with well-draining soil and minimal watering.

Reaching 2-4 feet tall with purple-blue spikes and licorice-scented foliage, it attracts pollinators while providing continuous blooms and reliable self-seeding performance.

CDC to disburse delayed funds including for overdose prevention, staffers say : Shots

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Much of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s $9 billion budget has been in limbo.

Ben Hendren/Bloomberg via Getty Images


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Ben Hendren/Bloomberg via Getty Images

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention will be able to fully fund the Overdose Data to Action, or OD2A, program ahead of a key budget deadline, according to a CDC senior leader. A second CDC staff member confirmed that “there have been developments and we are likely to have full funding,” although they did not have details on when the funding would become available.

Both spoke to NPR on the condition of anonymity because they fear retribution for speaking to the press without authorization. Some staffers at CDC expressed to NPR that this appeared to be good news, although the funding situation was still fluid and confusing.

NPR reported last month that the Trump administration was withholding $140 million from the OD2A program, which state and local public health departments rely on to lower overdose deaths from fentanyl, methamphetamines and other drugs across the U.S.

Previously frozen funding for other CDC programs, including rape and domestic violence prevention, is also getting released, the senior CDC leader said.

Funding, 30 days at a time

The delays were part of a broader issue with funding at the CDC. As NPR reported in June, for months the CDC waited for the $9 billion Congress intended for the agency for fiscal year 2025. In the meantime, it received small amounts of money every 30 days to cover payroll and other limited expenses.

The senior leader described the process like receiving money “with an eyedropper.”

Without a pot of money to distribute out to various centers and divisions, the CDC couldn’t send out the notice of awards that state and local health departments need to be able to do their work and know they will be reimbursed for it.

“Most state health departments get most of their funding from the feds — in Alabama’s case, we get more than two-thirds of our funding from federal grants, predominantly CDC,” Dr. Scott Harris, who runs Alabama’s health department, told NPR in June.

Deadlines missed

Health departments across the country sounded the alarm as deadlines approached or passed for CDC funding of HIV prevention, cancer registries and overdose prevention programs.

Now, most of those programs across the CDC apparently can continue, including OD2A. Grantees for the OD2A program, who had been told in July they would be receiving only half of their funding, will soon be told they will receive the full amount, according to the senior leader at CDC.

The news comes after advocates had been warning for weeks of the harms that delayed or partial funding to the program could have. If full funding is actually coming, “it’ll be welcome, but it’s not without the toll that it’s already taken,” says Sharon Gilmartin, director of the Safe States Alliance, a national membership association for the field of injury and violence prevention. As an example of the toll, NPR reported on a local health department in North Carolina that laid off staff because of CDC funding delays, only to have the funding come through weeks late without explanation. 

“I don’t think anybody will feel confident until they have money in hand,” Gilmartin adds. “And I’ll be honest, I think the concern is that — if this is what we went through this year, even if funding comes through, are we going to be doing this again next year?”

There was no available explanation from the Trump administration or the Office of Management and Budget for the delays or the release of the funding. OMB and the Department of Health and Human Services did not respond to NPR’s request for comment.

The CDC senior leader describes the release of funding for the agency as a relief. “It’s great we have our apportionment,” they tell NPR.

Some funds frozen

But there’s a new funding challenge. Several dozen specific CDC programs have now had their budget lines frozen at the direction of OMB, according to the senior leader at CDC. The news of the frozen funds was first reported by The Wall Street Journal.

The frozen programs are mostly in the National Center for Chronic Disease Prevention and Health Promotion, according to the senior leader at CDC.

A list of frozen programs reviewed by NPR includes those that address tobacco use, nutrition, physical activity and obesity, school health, inflammatory bowel disease, excessive alcohol use, chronic disease education and awareness, national diabetes prevention program, oral health, epilepsy and more.

“What does it all mean?”

Funding for five programs at the CDC’s Injury Center was frozen by the OMB as well, including youth violence prevention, adverse childhood experiences, firearm injury, injury control research centers and injury prevention activities. Gilmartin of the Safe States Alliance says it’s hard to understand why these programs were targeted. “I can’t come up with an ideological reason why you would want to cut funding that supports positive early childhood,” for instance, she says.

The senior leader at the CDC says there are some big questions for the OMB and the Trump administration: “How do we interpret all of this? What does it all mean?”

There were whole teams fired during the dramatic reduction in force across HHS in April that appear to have full funding, the senior leader says, such as the Rape Prevention and Education Program.

Similarly, there are programs with their budget lines frozen by OMB that are fully staffed, and still other priorities set forth in President Trump’s 2026 budget, they say, which leaves the impression that there’s no overarching strategy.