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How to Grow Coreopsis Plant – Caring Guide?

An ideal garden is mix of different plants, flowers, veggies, herbs and small shrubs. It not only makes the garden beautiful; it attracts pollinators and bees that keeps the garden healthy.

Coreopsis is one such low-maintenance flowering plant, known for its daisy-like blooms and long blooming period.

Native to North America, coreopsis is drought-tolerant and performs beautifully in sunny locations.

You can grow this plant to add a splash of color to your vegetable garden borders or to bring in helpful pollinators. Its bright yellow, pink, red, or bi-colored blooms are a magnet for bees and butterflies, and the plant itself is tough, thriving with very little care.

Growing Requirements of Coreopsis

Coreopsis thrives in full sun and well-drained soil.

While it tolerates poor or sandy soils, it performs best in moderately fertile, slightly acidic to neutral pH soil (around 6.0–7.0).

Overly rich or moist soil can lead to floppy stems or root rot. Most varieties are perennial in USDA zones 4–9, though some are grown as annuals.

Ensure plenty of airflow around the plant, as crowded conditions can lead to mildew or other fungal issues.

1. Sunlight

Coreopsis loves the sun. It needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day to produce its best blooms. While it can tolerate light shade, especially in very hot climates, too much shade will result in fewer flowers and leggy growth.

2. Soil Type

Coreopsis grows best in well-drained soil. It tolerates poor, rocky, or sandy soil better than rich or heavy clay. In fact, overly fertile soil can cause the plant to grow too tall and floppy with fewer flowers. Aim for neutral to slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0–7.0) for ideal results.

3. Watering Needs

Young plants need regular watering to establish strong roots. Once established, coreopsis becomes drought-tolerant and prefers slightly dry conditions. Overwatering or poorly draining soil can lead to root rot or fungal diseases, so allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.

4. Spacing and Air Circulation

Good air circulation is important to prevent mildew and other fungal problems. Space plants according to variety:

  • Small/dwarf types: 8–12 inches apart
  • Medium/standard varieties: 12–18 inches apart
  • Tall types: up to 24 inches apart

5. Climate and Hardiness

Most coreopsis varieties are hardy perennials in USDA zones 4–9, though some are grown as annuals in colder regions. They can handle both heat and light frosts, making them a great choice for many climates.

How to Grow Coreopsis Plant?

Coreopsis can be grown in several easy ways: by sowing seeds directly in the garden after the last frost, starting seeds indoors for an early start, or transplanting nursery-grown plants into your landscape.

Perennial varieties can also be propagated by dividing mature clumps every few years, while some types can be multiplied through stem cuttings.

Additionally, gardeners can collect and save seeds from existing plants to replant each season.

Check this: How to Propagate Black-Eyed Susan?

How to Grow Coreopsis from Seeds?

Growing Coreopsis from seed is one of the most rewarding ways to add bright, cheerful color to your garden.

It’s budget-friendly and perfect for gardeners who enjoy watching the full growth cycle, from sprout to bloom. Whether you sow directly outdoors or start seeds indoors, the process is simple and reliable.

Direct Sowing Outdoors

Direct sowing is the most common method for growing Coreopsis from seed, especially for annual species like Coreopsis tinctoria. This method works best when soil temperatures have warmed and the threat of frost has passed.

  • Best Time to Sow: Plant seeds outdoors in spring once the danger of frost is over. In most climates, this means mid to late spring. Soil should be warm and workable.
  • Choose a Suitable Location: Coreopsis needs full sun to thrive. Choose a spot that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Good air circulation also helps prevent disease.
  • Prepare the Soil: Loosen the top 2 to 3 inches of soil and remove weeds, rocks, or debris. While Coreopsis can grow in poor soils, it performs best in well-drained, slightly sandy or loamy soil. Avoid heavy clay or waterlogged areas. If needed, add compost to improve drainage.
  • Sow the Seeds: Sprinkle seeds evenly on the soil surface. Lightly press them into the soil with your hand or a board, but do not cover them with more soil. Coreopsis seeds require light to germinate, so shallow contact with the soil is key.
  • Water Gently: Use a fine spray or mist to water the area gently. Keep the soil moist but not soggy until the seeds germinate. Watering once or twice a day may be necessary in dry or windy weather.
  • Germination Time: Seeds will begin to sprout in about 7 to 14 days, depending on temperature and moisture. Continue to monitor for consistent moisture during this period.
  • Thin the Seedlings: Once seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin them to 10 to 15 inches apart. Thinning allows each plant space to mature, promotes airflow, and reduces competition for nutrients and water.

Starting Seeds Indoors

If you want to get a head start on the growing season or have a short summer, starting Coreopsis seeds indoors is a great option. This method is especially helpful for perennial species.

  • Start Early: Begin seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your area’s average last frost date.
  • Use the Right Containers: Fill seed trays or small pots with a sterile, well-draining seed-starting mix. Avoid heavy garden soil, which may compact and reduce airflow to roots.
  • Plant the Seeds: Sprinkle seeds on the surface and gently press them in without covering them. As with outdoor sowing, light exposure is needed for germination.
  • Provide Light and Warmth: Place the trays in a bright window or under grow lights for at least 12 to 14 hours a day. Maintain temperatures around 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C) for optimal germination.
  • Keep Moisture Even: Mist the surface regularly to keep it moist but not waterlogged. Good airflow will help prevent damping-off disease.
  • Harden Off Seedlings: Once seedlings have developed 2 to 3 sets of true leaves and outdoor temperatures are consistently warm, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over a 7-day period.
  • Transplant Outdoors: Plant the hardened seedlings in the garden, spacing them 12 to 18 inches apart in a sunny, well-drained area.

How to Propagate Coreopsis?

In addition to growing from seed, Coreopsis can also be propagated through division, stem cuttings, and seed saving. These methods allow gardeners to multiply existing plants, preserve specific traits (such as flower color or size), and rejuvenate older plants.

Propagation by Division

Division is the most reliable propagation method for perennial Coreopsis species like Coreopsis grandiflora and Coreopsis verticillata. It helps to refresh overgrown or declining plants while producing new ones for other areas of the garden.

  • Best Time to Divide: Divide Coreopsis in early spring, just as new growth begins to emerge, or in early fall when temperatures are cooler and plants are less stressed.
  • Dig Up the Plant: Use a garden fork or shovel to carefully lift the entire plant from the soil. Try to keep as much of the root ball intact as possible.
  • Separate the Clumps: Gently shake off excess soil and inspect the root system. Using your hands or a clean garden knife, divide the plant into smaller sections, ensuring each has roots and a few healthy shoots or leaf buds.
  • Replant Immediately: Replant the divided sections in well-draining soil at the same depth they were growing before. Space them 12 to 18 inches apart. Water thoroughly to help them establish.
  • Mulch and Maintain: Apply a light layer of mulch to help retain soil moisture and suppress weeds. Keep the soil moist until new growth resumes.

Also Read: How to Propagate Bee Balm?

Propagation by Cuttings

Some hybrid or sterile Coreopsis varieties do not produce viable seeds. In these cases, stem cuttings can be an effective way to propagate the plant.

  • Take Cuttings in Late Spring or Early Summer: Select healthy, non-flowering stems. Use sharp scissors or pruners to cut a 4 to 6-inch segment just below a leaf node.
  • Remove Lower Leaves: Strip the lower leaves from the stem, leaving only the top 1 or 2 pairs of leaves. This reduces water loss and encourages rooting.
  • Use Rooting Hormone (Optional): Dip the cut end in rooting hormone to promote quicker root development, though Coreopsis may root successfully without it.
  • Place in Growing Medium: Insert the cuttings into a moist, well-draining potting mix, sand, or perlite. Firm the soil around the base to support the stem.
  • Maintain Humidity: Cover the container with a clear plastic bag or place it in a propagator to maintain high humidity. Keep in bright, indirect light.
  • Transplant After Rooting: Roots usually form within 2 to 4 weeks. Once roots are strong, transplant the new plant into a pot or directly into the garden.

How Far Apart to Plant Coreopsis?

When planting Coreopsis, spacing depends on the variety and whether you’re growing from seed or transplanting mature plants.

In general, most types benefit from being spaced 12 to 18 inches apart. This allows each plant enough room to spread, develop a healthy root system, and grow into a full, bushy shape.

Proper spacing also helps improve air circulation, which is important for preventing fungal diseases like powdery mildew.

Overcrowding can lead to weak stems, poor blooming, and increased competition for water and nutrients. If you’re growing a compact or dwarf variety, 10 to 12 inches of spacing is usually enough.

If starting from seed, thin seedlings once they’re a few inches tall, leaving 10 to 15 inches between each plant.

This early thinning step ensures strong, healthy growth and reduces crowding as the plants mature. Giving Coreopsis the right amount of space encourages more blooms and long-term garden performance.

Also Read: How to Plant Daylily Bulbs?

How Long Do Coreopsis Bloom?

One of the standout features of coreopsis is its extended blooming period, which can last from late spring to fall:

  • Bloom Time: Typically, from May or June through September
  • Deadheading: Regularly removing spent flowers encourages continuous blooming and maintains a tidy appearance.

In warm climates or with early seed starting, some varieties may start blooming as early as April. The plant naturally slows down toward the end of the season, but a mid-season trim can rejuvenate it.

How Tall Do Coreopsis Grow?

Coreopsis height varies by species, but most varieties grow between 1 to 3 feet tall. Dwarf types may stay under 12 inches, while taller cultivars can reach up to 4 feet.

Plant height is influenced by sunlight, soil, and care. Full sun and well-drained soil help plants reach their maximum height and bloom potential.

How to Care for Coreopsis?

Once established, coreopsis requires minimal care. Here’s how to keep it thriving:

Watering

Water deeply when newly planted. Once mature, coreopsis is drought-tolerant and only needs watering during prolonged dry spells.

Feeding

Coreopsis generally does not require fertilizing. Overfeeding may reduce blooming and encourage leggy growth. Compost at planting time is often sufficient.

Pruning and Deadheading

Regular deadheading extends blooming. In midseason, cut plants back by a third to promote fresh growth and another round of flowers.

Winter Care

In fall, let the last flowers go to seed for winter interest and to feed birds. Cut back dead stems in early spring. Mulch lightly in cold zones to protect roots.

Pests/Diseases

Coreopsis is mostly pest-free but may occasionally attract aphids or suffer from mildew if overcrowded or overwatered. Good spacing and well-drained soil prevent most problems.

Conclusion

Coreopsis is a resilient, sun-loving plant that brings bright color and pollinator activity to your garden with very little effort.

From sowing seeds in spring to watching bees buzz around its cheerful blooms all summer, it’s a gardener’s joy.

With proper spacing, full sun, and minimal care, coreopsis can be a blooming success whether you’re planting a border, filling a meadow, or adding charm to a container.

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California lawmakers want to boost doctors’ menopause training : Shots

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California Assemblymember Rebecca Bauer-Kahan introduced a bill in the current legislative session to mandate menopause education for doctors in the state.

Rich Pedroncelli/AP


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Rich Pedroncelli/AP

Former middle school teacher Lorraine Carter Salazar isn’t easily embarrassed. But when she began having hot flashes at school about a decade ago, she worried about how she came off to coworkers, students and parents.

“It doesn’t convey competence,” said Carter Salazar, 62. She recounted how parents could tell she was uncomfortable in meetings. One time, a student even fanned her and remarked that she was used to seeing her grandma feeling the same way.

When she took her concerns to her doctor, he didn’t take them seriously.

“So you sweat,” Carter Salazar recalled him saying. “And he’s right. Nobody dies from sweating.”

People experiencing perimenopause and menopause symptoms — which can range from hot flashes and night sweats to mood changes, decreased libido and cognitive issues — often complain of unresponsive doctors and inconsistent care. Symptoms can impact quality of life in the moment, and long-term health.

Many doctors are ill-equipped to handle these conversations.

Lorraine Carter Salazar works on a knitting project at a craft group she attends weekly at a Sacramento library branch.

Lorraine Carter Salazar (right) works on a knitting project at a craft group she attends weekly at a Sacramento library branch.

Megan Myscofski/CapRadio


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Megan Myscofski/CapRadio

A needs assessment published in the medical journal Menopause in 2023 showed just under a third of the residency programs in obstetrics and gynecology it surveyed offered training on menopause, even though half of the population experiences it.

That’s led lawmakers in California and nationally to try to intervene.

In California, legislators introduced two bills this legislative session on menopause education for doctors. Assembly Bill 360, which would have required a state agency to look into education gaps and how to fill them, was tabled last month. But Assembly Bill 432, which would require menopause coursework for doctors to renew their licenses — if at least 25% of their patients are women under 65 — is still moving through the legislature.

“It reflects my own experience having to go to three doctors before a doctor could adequately have a conversation with me about menopause,” said Democratic Assemblymember Rebecca Bauer-Kahan, who introduced the measure.

She says when she was going through menopause, her brain fog became so intense that she worried she might have early-onset Alzheimer’s Disease.

And California’s efforts are part of a national trend.

“Thirteen states, including California, have introduced a total of 21 bills [related to menopause] this legislative session, which is pretty stunning actually for an issue that really wasn’t on any legislator’s radar, certainly three years ago,” said Jennifer Weiss-Wolf, who runs the Birnbaum Women’s Leadership Center at New York University and tracks menopause bills.

Several of those bills also touch on doctor education. In New Jersey, for example, one bill would allow providers to use continuing education credits towards their license renewal. Arizona and Massachusetts introduced bills this year to provide more information on menopause to providers and patients.

In recent years, Illinois and Louisiana have started to mandate insurance coverage for some menopause treatments.

Treating symptoms instead of letting patients endure them

Training is available for doctors who want it – and treatments are available for people who need them.

“There’s no reason that somebody should suffer with those symptoms,” said Dr. Monica Christmas from the University of Chicago. She runs the menopause program at the Center for Women’s Integrated Health.

Christmas, who has practiced gynecology for over 20 years, fell into the speciality because her colleagues kept sending her their menopausal patients.

“I didn’t know the answers, but I listened,” she said.

After hearing their concerns, she researched their symptoms before coming back with treatment ideas. They, in turn, told their friends at work, over coffee, and while waiting for the train about the doctor who took them seriously.

“And so very quickly, I got super busy,” she said.

Christmas said the training a school offers on menopause usually depends on how well-resourced it is. Since few schools have a robust program, many physicians also seek out information and training elsewhere.

Christmas also works for The Menopause Society — a national organization that provides training for doctors on how to treat women at this stage of life.

Christmas said it’s imperative that doctors know how to work with lots of different people — because symptoms vary, and so do people’s tolerance levels and trust in the medical system.

“Black women like myself were very reluctant to take anything for the symptoms that they were experiencing,” she said. She never understood why, and heard myriad reasons when she asked. Some patients explained that menopause is simply a natural process meant to be endured. “Yet, I could see in front of me them having hot flashes in the conversation.”

Specialized care for Black women

Kim Robinson, with the advocacy organization Black Women for Wellness, said Black women have to navigate discrimination on top of seeking helpful information from health care providers.

She added that doctors should be better versed in how Black women experience this time of life differently from other women.

For instance, Black women often experience fibroids, or benign growths in the uterus, at higher rates than white women, according to a recent study in the American Journal of Obstetrics and Gynecology.

As they reach menopause, Robinson said many doctors suggest Black women get hysterectomy, which is the removal of the uterus, without fully explaining the risks or alternatives. According to the Mayo Clinic, several alternatives exist, such as hormone regulation, but nearly 60% of women who receive a hysterectomy are offered other treatment first.

“It’s not just this one invasive thing, remove your parts and the problem is solved,” she said of the procedure.

Robinson knows from experience. When her doctor suggested she get a hysterectomy, she knew to push back and ask questions, eventually finding a less-invasive alternative.

But, she said, the burden shouldn’t be on patients to advocate for themselves. Doctors, she said, should get more training and education on symptoms and treatments.

Challenges to passing a menopause education law 

In California, the measure that would require doctors to study menopause builds off a bill that Democratic Governor Gavin Newsom vetoed last year. In his veto message, Newsom said the bill was “too far-reaching” because it would have required health insurance plans to cover expensive and non-FDA-approved treatments.

However, Newsom encouraged lawmakers to “continue to work towards a more tailored solution that can improve access to perimenopause and menopause care, inform patients of their options, and encourage providers to stay informed of the latest clinical care recommendations,” he wrote.

But Bauer-Kahan, the assemblymember, kept the provisions that Newsom cited as a problem. However, she added education requirements, when last year’s bill strictly focused on insurance.

“We’ve doubled down,” she said. “I think one of the things I learned last year through the hearings we held on menopause and this work is how little is understood about menopause.”

Newsom’s office declined to comment on the measure.

Opposition within the medical field is also an obstacle.

Dr. Tanya Spirtos, former president of the California Medical Association, which represents doctors, said the bill is well-intentioned but misguided. Doctors generally know they must stay up to date and informed about the latest treatments, she said.

“We do the reading and the education, as I say, to stay one step ahead of our patients,” she said.

Spirtos, a gynecologist, also said there are lots of areas — like diabetes or nutrition — where doctors need to stay current, but requiring training in each one would create too much of a burden. She said doctors should decide for themselves what kind of training is most relevant to their practice.

“Every area that touches on bones or brain or heart or vagina or hot flashes has literature available that’s really easy for our physicians to get a hold of and educate themselves,” she said.

NYU’s Weiss-Wolf’s says she hopes to see access to good menopause care take off. Her focus on women’s health also includes advocating for making tampons and pads more accessible.

“Certainly when I started working on periods, people weren’t talking about it in any sort of public and systematic way,” she said. “And I would say that 10 years later, that feels different to me.”

She thinks something similar is happening now for menopause.

This story is part of a series produced for the USC Annenberg Center for Health Journalism‘s 2025 California Health Equity Fellowship.

How to Grow and Care for Sweet Almond Bush

Aloysia virgata

Sweet almond bush (Aloysia virgata), also known as sweet almond verbena or incense bush, is a fast-growing, woody shrub or small tree in the Verbenaceae family.

Native to northern Argentina, this perennial thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, where it may remain evergreen or die back in the winter, depending on the local climate.

A close up horizontal image of the flowers and foliage of a sweet almond bush (Aloysia virgata) growing in the landscape.A close up horizontal image of the flowers and foliage of a sweet almond bush (Aloysia virgata) growing in the landscape.

This cousin of edible lemon verbena (A. citrodora) features pointed terminal clusters of white blossoms that bloom profusely from midsummer to fall and infuse gardens with a sweet almond or vanilla-like fragrance, especially during the late afternoon and evening hours.

The flowers attract a variety of pollinators, including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Let’s take a closer look at how to grow and care for this striking, sweet-scented plant. Here’s what I’ll cover:

Also commonly known as sweet almond verbena or incense bush, A. virgata is a low-maintenance shrub with an upright growth habit.

The green leaves have a soft luster and are arranged alternately along slender branches that arch slightly for a graceful, airy display as a multi-stemmed shrub or small tree.

Quick Look

Common name(s): Sweet almond bush, sweet almond verbena, incense bush

Plant type: Woody flowering shrub

Hardiness (USDA Zone): 8-11

Native to: Northern Argentina

Bloom time / season: Midsummer to fall

Exposure: Full sun

Soil type: Fertile loam, moderately moist to dry, well-draining

Soil pH: 5.6-7.8, slightly acidic to neutral

Time to maturity: 3-5 years

Mature size: 5 to 15 feet tall, 3 to 8 feet wide

Best uses: Border, container, rock garden, specimen

Taxonomy

Order: Lamiales

Family: Verbenaceae

Genus: Aloysia

Species: Virgata

Showcase this ornamental specimen in borders, containers, and rock gardens, to add long-lasting fragrance and attract pollinators.

Mature dimensions are five to 15 feet tall and three to eight feet wide. Sweet almond bush grows as an evergreen in frost-free climates.

Where it is cooler, and the ground freezes, these perennial plants die to the ground at season’s end and return in the spring.

Alternatively, you can grow sweet almond bush in pots that can be moved indoors as needed and returned outside after last frost.

How to Grow

When you replicate its natural habitat, A. virgata rewards you with an abundance of flowers and an outdoor living space infused with perfume.

A close up vertical image of a small, freshly transplanted sweet almond bush growing in a garden border.A close up vertical image of a small, freshly transplanted sweet almond bush growing in a garden border.

Sweet almond bush grows rapidly and reaches mature dimensions in three to five years when its cultural requirements are met.

Let’s discuss how to accommodate its needs.

Climate

In its native range of northern Argentina, sweet almond bush grows in tropical to subtropical conditions.

Summers are hot and humid, with temperatures between 86 and 104°F, and seasonal rainfall.

Winters are mild, with average temperatures between 50 and 68°F and only occasional light frosts.

In cultivation, this species performs best in similar conditions.

Light

Sweet almond bush prefers a location with full sun to support optimal growth and flowering.

A close up horizontal image of the fragrant white clusters of blooms on a sweet almond bush (Aloysia virgata) growing in the garden.A close up horizontal image of the fragrant white clusters of blooms on a sweet almond bush (Aloysia virgata) growing in the garden.

Aim for at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Adequate light also helps to dry the soil surface between waterings, reducing the risk of root rot.

Soil

The ideal soil is organically-rich loam with a pH of 5.6 to 7.8. It should be loose, airy, and well-draining.

If you’re cultivating in containers, select a potting mix that is loose, moisture retentive, and drains well.

Water

Provide consistent moisture during the first two to three years after planting. Water when the top two to three inches of soil are dry, especially during hot weather.

Once established, A. virgata has above-average drought tolerance. Avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Mature plants generally need irrigation only during a protracted dry spell.

Fertilizing

While this shrub is not a heavy feeder, it benefits from a yearly application of an all-purpose, slow-release, granular fertilizer with a balanced N-P-K ratio, such as 10-10-10, to support overall health and blooming.

Where to Buy

Sweet almond bush isn’t commonly found at big-box garden centers, but you may be able to source it through specialty nurseries in Zones 8 to 11 or from individual growers via plant exchanges.

Maintenance

With regular pruning, sweet almond bush can be shaped into a multi-stemmed shrub or trained as a small tree. In containers, trimming helps control size and maintain a tidy form.

The best time to prune is in midsummer, after the first flush of flowers fades.

A close up horizontal image of branches of the sweet almond bush with tiny white flowers pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of branches of the sweet almond bush with tiny white flowers pictured on a soft focus background.

Because this plant blooms on new growth, cutting branches post-bloom often encourages a second round of flowering.

Deadheading spent flower stems throughout the growing season also supports prolific reblooming.

Remove any damaged, dead, or pest- or disease-affected branches as needed.

In cooler regions, where the shrub dies with the first frost, cut it back to the ground and dispose of the debris to avoid harboring garden pests and pathogens over the winter.

Apply a loose, airy two- to three-inch layer of straw mulch over the root zone for winter insulation.

For potted specimens in areas that freeze, you can take them indoors before the first frost to enjoy as a houseplant, returning it outdoors the following spring.

Choose a location in bright, indirect light, and water when the top few inches of soil dry out.

For container-grown plants in freezing climates, bring them indoors before the first frost. They can be kept as houseplants in a bright location, watered when the top few inches of soil are dry.

Alternatively, allow frost to trigger leaf drop and store the pot in a dark room at around 60°F where it will remain dormant until you put it outside in the spring.

Water infrequently, just before the pot completely dries out.

Propagation

The best ways to propagate sweet almond bush is by taking cutting or by air-layering.

If you don’t have a shrub to work with, you can purchase a nursery start from a reputable grower.

From Cuttings

To propagate sweet almond bush by cuttings:

  1. Use clean shears to cut a six-inch length from healthy tip growth.
  2. Remove the leaves from the bottom three inches of the stem.
  3. Fill a well-draining six-inch container three-quarters full of loose, well-draining potting medium.
  4. Use a pencil to make a three-inch-deep hole in the center of the potting soil.
  5. Dip the cut end into rooting hormone powder if you have some, and place the stem into the hole, three inches deep.
  6. Tamp the soil to hold it firmly in place.
  7. Water until it runs from the drainage hole.
  8. Place the pot in bright, indirect sunlight indoors or direct sunlight outdoors.

When new foliage sprouts, the cutting is ready to transplant out into the garden or into a permanent container.

By Air Layering

Air layering is a propagation method that encourages roots to form on a wounded section of a branch while still attached to the parent plant.

  1. In midsummer, select a mature, pencil-thick branch with new growth.
  2. Choose a one- to two-inch section with one or more leaf nodes, and snip off any leaves.
  3. Make two shallow circular cuts, just penetrating the outer bark, around the stem, one to two inches apart, and connect them with a vertical cut.
  4. Gently lift and remove the outer layer of bark from the one- to two-inch “wound.”
  5. Wrap a generous handful or two of wet sphagnum moss all the way around the wound and press it in place.
  6. Cover the moss with plastic and secure both ends with twist ties.
  7. Check moisture weekly, rewetting the moss with a spray bottle as needed to keep it consistently moist.
  8. When white roots appear, remove the plastic but keep the moss in place.
  9. Sever the rooted section just below the new root mass using clean pruners.

You should now have a leafy stem with a root mass at the bottom ready to transplant.

Transplanting

To transplant sweet almond bush into the landscape, work the soil to a depth of eight to 12 inches until it is loose and crumbly.

Set the crown, where the roots and stem(s) meet, slightly above the soil surface, backfill with soil, and water in well.

After transplant, maintain even moisture, watering when the top few inches of soil feel dry and rain is not in the forecast.

Pamper your sweet almond bush for the first couple of years. After that, it is drought tolerant and shouldn’t need supplemental water unless there is a drought.

Pests and Disease

A. virgata is not prone to pests or pathogens in the landscape.

A horizontal image of the branches of a sweet almond bush (Aloysia virgata) with white flowers and bright green leaves pictured on a soft focus background.A horizontal image of the branches of a sweet almond bush (Aloysia virgata) with white flowers and bright green leaves pictured on a soft focus background.

However, the plants may be visited by aphids in overly humid conditions, and spider mites, and/or whiteflies in hot, dry environments.

Damage from these sapsucking insects includes leaf yellowing, wilting, and stunted growth.

Address infestations with a strong spray of water from the hose and applications of neem oil as needed.

Sweet almond bush may be vulnerable to root rot in wet soil. Signs of rotting include the softening of foliage and roots, wilting, and a foul odor.

If caught early, healthy portions may be salvageable. Grow in well-draining pots or ground soil and avoid overwatering.

Lovely and Long-Blooming

When a shrub repeat-blooms throughout the growing season, it is a valuable asset in the midsummer-to-fall landscape, well worth the minimal maintenance required.

A close up horizontal image of branches of the sweet almond bush with tiny white flowers pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of branches of the sweet almond bush with tiny white flowers pictured on a soft focus background.

With its substantial size, gracefully arching branches, lovely blossom spikes, and heady fragrance, the long-blooming sweet almond bush is destined to play a starring role in Zone 8 to 11 landscapes.

Do you grow sweet almond bush in your outdoor living space? Please tell us your tips for success in the comments section below!

If you enjoyed reading about this sweetly-scented species and want to learn more about growing woody shrubs, we recommend the following articles next:

Deb’s Alliums in Wisconsin – Fine Gardening

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Happy Monday, GPODers!

Today we’re getting a springtime update from Deb Skup in Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin. Deb has shared her garden a couple of times in the past (Deb & Paul’s Garden in the Wisconsin Woods and Wild but Wonderful), but it has been several years since the last update and her plantings have evolved quite a bit. As Deb highlights in this submission, alliums have self-seeded throughout her gardens and helped to create a luscious green and purple color palette throughout her beds and borders.

Hi,

I haven’t submitted any new pictures for quite a while so thought I would send some today of my self-seeded alliums. They seem to look good wherever they pop up (except for their ugly leaves!). I have been retired now since 2022 so have had time to get the gardens a bit more under control, most days spending at least four hours working on them.

In this picture: catmint, mountain cornflower (Centaurea montana, Zones 3–8), astilbe, Dutch iris (Iris × hollandica, Zones 6–9), Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra, Zones 5–9), purple heuchera, hosta, and some self-seeded blue columbine. My vegetable beds are in the background with a row cover over the peppers.

shade garden with hosta and Japanese mapleThe burgundy maple tree was a seed in some mulch 30 years ago!

braided daffodils in late spring gardenI braid all my thousands of daffodils and tuck them under each year so they don’t smother everything around them.

dog in garden with purple flowersThis is Jazz, our 9-month-old puppy who loves to trample and chew on things while I weed.

purple alliums with blue hostasHere is my baby ‘Bloodgood’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Bloodgood’, Zones 5–8) among hostas, allium, and other things that are buried in unbraided dafs. In the background is the native forest.

purple alliums with bright yellow grassOne final photos shows the alliums adding more color to yet another bed, this time a wonderful contrast to a mass of bright yellow Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra, Zones 5–9).

Thank you so much for this fantastic update on your garden, Deb! The additional hours you are now able to spend in your garden have made an impact, and it’s so fun to see how your space has transformed over the years.

Do you let any plants self-seed freely in your garden? Maybe it’s a plant that just looks great in every setting, like Deb’s alliums, or maybe you’re a native plant connoisseur that lets beneficial beauties spread anywhere they’d like. Let us know in the comments what plants have free rein in your garden, or consider sharing photos with the blog! Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.

 

We want to see YOUR garden!

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

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How To Make Hydrating Cucumber Water

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How To Make Hydrating Cucumber Water








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The ‘Big Beautiful Bill’ could lead to millions losing health insurance : Shots

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Alton Fry is trying to pay for prostate cancer treatment without health insurance. He’s one of millions of Americans who lack coverage. The number of uninsured could swell as the Trump administration and Congress try to enact policies to roll back access to insurance.

Lynsey Weatherspoon for KFF Health News


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Lynsey Weatherspoon for KFF Health News

CLARKESVILLE, Ga. — Last September, Alton Fry went to the doctor concerned he had high blood pressure. The trip would result in a prostate cancer diagnosis.

So began the stress of trying to pay for tens of thousands of dollars in treatment — without health insurance.

“I’ve never been sick in my life, so I’ve never needed insurance before,” said Fry, a 54-year-old self-employed masonry contractor who restores old buildings in the rural Appalachian community he’s called home nearly all his life.

Making sure he had insurance was the last thing on his mind, until recently, Fry said. He had been rebuilding his life after a prison stay, maintaining his sobriety, restarting his business, and remarrying his wife. “Things got busy,” he said.

Now, with a household income of about $48,000, Fry and his wife earn too much to qualify for Georgia’s limited Medicaid expansion. And he said he found that the health plans sold on the state’s Affordable Care Act exchange were too expensive or the coverage too limited.

In late April, a friend launched a crowdfunding campaign to help Fry cover some of the costs. To save money, Fry said, he’s taking a less aggressive treatment route than his doctor recommended.

“There is no help for middle-class America,” he said.

More than 26 million Americans lacked health insurance in the first six months of 2024, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

The uninsured are mostly low-income adults under age 65, and people of color, and most live in the South and West. The uninsured rate in the 10 states that, like Georgia, have not expanded Medicaid to nearly all low-income adults was 14.1% in 2023, compared with 7.6% in expansion states, according to KFF, a health information nonprofit that includes KFF Health News.

Health policy researchers expect the number of uninsured to swell as the second Trump administration and a GOP-controlled Congress try to enact policies that explicitly roll back health coverage for the first time since the advent of the modern U.S. health system in the early 20th century.

Under the “One Big Beautiful Bill Act” — budget legislation that would achieve some of President Donald Trump’s priorities, such as extending tax cuts mainly benefiting the wealthy — some 10.9 million Americans would lose health insurance by 2034, according to estimates by the nonpartisan Congressional Budget Office based on a House version of the budget bill.

A Senate version of the bill could result in more people losing Medicaid coverage with reductions in federal spending and rules that would make it harder for people to qualify. That bill suffered a major blow Thursday when the Senate parliamentarian, a nonpartisan official who enforces the chamber’s rules, rejected several health provisions — including the proposal to gradually reduce provider taxes, a mechanism that nearly every state uses to increase its federal Medicaid funding.

The number who could lose insurance could rise to 16 million if proposed rule changes to the ACA take effect and tax credits that help people pay for ACA plans expire at the end of the year, according to the CBO. In KFF poll results released in June, nearly two-thirds of people surveyed viewed the bill unfavorably and more than half said they were worried federal funding cuts would hurt their family’s ability to obtain and afford health care.

Like Fry, more people would be forced to pay for health expenses out-of-pocket, leading to delays in care, lost access to needed doctors and medications, and poorer physical and financial health.

“The effects could be catastrophic,” said Jennifer Tolbert, deputy director of KFF’s Program on Medicaid and the Uninsured.

A patchwork system

The House-passed bill would represent the largest reduction in federal support for Medicaid and health coverage in history, Tolbert said. If the Senate approves it, it would be the first time Congress moved to eliminate coverage for millions of people.

“This would take us back,” she said.

The United States is the only wealthy country where a substantial number of citizens lack health insurance, due to nearly a century of pushback against universal coverage from doctors, insurance companies, and elected officials.

“The complexity is everywhere throughout the system,” said Sherry Glied, dean of New York University’s Wagner School of Public Service, who worked in the George H.W. Bush, Clinton, and Obama administrations. “The big bug is that people fall between the cracks.”

This year, KFF Health News is speaking to Americans about the challenges they face in finding health insurance and the effects on their ability to get care; to providers who serve the uninsured; and to policy experts about why, even when the nation hit its lowest recorded uninsured rate in 2023, nearly a tenth of the U.S. population still lacked health coverage.

So far, the reporting has found that despite decades of policies designed to increase access to care, the very structure of the nation’s health insurance system creates the opposite effect.

Government-backed universal coverage has eluded U.S. policymakers for decades.

After lobbying from physician groups, President Franklin D. Roosevelt abandoned plans to include universal health coverage in the Social Security Act of 1935. Then, because of a wage and salary cap used to control inflation during World War II, more employers offered health insurance to lure workers. In 1954, health coverage was formally exempted from income tax requirements, which led more employers to offer the benefit as part of compensation packages.

Kiana George lost Medicaid coverage in 2023 after she got a job at an after-school program that pays about $800 a month. The Camden, Alabama, resident stopped her high blood pressure treatment and later landed in an intensive care unit.

Losing health coverage can lead to people getting less care. Kiana George lost Medicaid coverage in 2023 after she got a job at an after-school program that pays about $800 a month. The Camden, Ala., resident stopped her high blood pressure treatment and later landed in an intensive care unit.

Whit Sides/Cover Alabama


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Whit Sides/Cover Alabama

Insurance coverage offered by employers came to form the foundation of the U.S. health system. But eventually, problems with linking health insurance to employment emerged.

“We realized, well, wait, not everybody is working,” said Heidi Allen, an associate professor at the Columbia School of Social Work who studies the impact of social policies on access to care. “Children aren’t working. People who are elderly are not working. People with disabilities are not working.”

Yet subsequent efforts to expand coverage to all Americans were met with backlash from unions who wanted health insurance as a bargaining chip, providers who didn’t want government oversight, and those who had coverage through their employers.

That led policymakers to add programs piecemeal to make health insurance accessible to more Americans.

There’s Medicare for older adults and Medicaid for people with low incomes and disabilities, both created in 1965; the Children’s Health Insurance Program, created in 1997; the ACA’s exchange plans and Medicaid expansion for people who can’t access job-based coverage, created in 2010.

As a result, the U.S. has a patchwork of health insurance programs with numerous interest groups vying for dollars, rather than a cohesive system, health policy researchers say.

Falling through the cracks

The lack of a cohesive system means even though Americans are eligible for health insurance, they struggle to access it, said Mark Shepard, an associate professor of public policy at the Harvard Kennedy School of Government. No central entity exists in the U.S. to ensure that all people have a plan, he said.

Over half of the uninsured might qualify for Medicaid or subsidies that can help cover the costs of an ACA plan, according to KFF. But many people aren’t aware of their options or can’t navigate overlapping programs — and even subsidized coverage can be unaffordable.

Those who have fallen through the cracks said it feels like the system has failed them.

Yorjeny Almonte of Allentown, Pennsylvania, earns about $2,600 a month as an inspector in a cabinet warehouse. When she started her job in December 2023, she didn’t want to spend nearly 10% of her income on health insurance.

But, last year, her uninsured mom chose to fly to the Dominican Republic to get care for a health concern. So Almonte, 23, who also needed to see a doctor, investigated her employer’s health offerings. By then she had missed the deadline to sign up.

“Now I have to wait another year,” she said.

In January, Camden, Alabama, resident Kiana George, who’s uninsured, landed in an intensive care unit months after she stopped seeing a nurse practitioner and taking blood pressure medications — an ordeal that saddled her with nearly $7,000 in medical bills.

George, 30, was kicked off Medicaid in 2023 after she got hired by an after-school program. It pays $800 a month, an income too high to qualify her for Medicaid in Alabama, which hasn’t expanded to cover most low-income adults. She also doesn’t make enough for a free or reduced-cost ACA plan.

George, who has a 9-year-old daughter, said she “has no idea” how she can repay the debt from the emergency room visit. And because she fears more bills, she has given up on treatment for ovarian cysts.

“It hurts, but I’m just gonna take my chances,” she said.

Debating the high cost of care

Researchers have known for decades that a lack of insurance coverage leads to poor access to health care, said Tom Buchmueller, a health economist at the University of Michigan Ross School of Business.

“It’s only more recently we’ve had really good, strong evidence that shows that health insurance really does improve health outcomes,” Buchmueller said.

Research released this spring by the National Bureau of Economic Research found that expanding Medicaid reduced low-income adults’ chances of dying by 2.5%. In 2019, a separate study published by that nonpartisan think tank provided experimental evidence that health insurance coverage reduced mortality among middle-aged adults.

In late May, the House narrowly advanced the budget legislation that independent government analysts said would result in millions of Americans losing health insurance coverage and reduce federal spending on programs like Medicaid by billions of dollars.

A key provision would require some Medicaid enrollees to work, volunteer, or complete other qualifying activities for 80 hours a month, starting at the end of 2026. Most Medicaid enrollees already work or have some reason they can’t, such as a disability, according to KFF.

House Speaker Mike Johnson has defended the requirement as “moral.”

“If you are able to work and you refuse to do so, you are defrauding the system. You’re cheating the system,” he told CBS News in the wake of the bill’s passage.

A Senate version of the bill also includes work requirements and more frequent eligibility checks for Medicaid recipients.

Fiscal conservatives argue a solution is needed to curb health care’s rising costs.

The U.S. spends about twice as much per capita on health care than other wealthy nations, and that spending would grow under the GOP’s budget bill, said Michael Cannon, director of health policy studies at the Cato Institute, a think tank that supports less government spending on health care.

But the bill doesn’t address the root causes of administrative complexity or unaffordable care, Cannon said. To do that would entail, for instance, doing away with the tax break for employer-sponsored care, which he said fuels excessive spending, high prices, and ties health insurance to employment. He said the bill should cut federal funding for Medicaid, not just limit its growth, to reduce excessive health care prices and spending.

The bill would throw more people into a high-cost health care landscape with little protection, said Aaron Carroll, president and CEO of AcademyHealth, a nonpartisan health policy research nonprofit.

“There’s a ton of evidence that shows that if you make people pay more for health care, they get less health care,” he said. “There’s lots of evidence that shows that disproportionately affects poor, sicker people.”

Labon McKenzie, 45, lives in Georgia, the only state that requires some Medicaid enrollees to work or complete other qualifying activities to obtain coverage.

He hasn’t been able to work since he broke multiple bones after he fell through a skylight while on the job three years ago. He got fired from a county road and bridge crew after the accident and hasn’t been approved for Social Security or disability benefits.

“I can’t stand up too long,” he said. “I can’t sit down too long.”

In February, McKenzie started seeing double, but canceled an appointment with an ophthalmologist because he couldn’t come up with the $300 the doctor wanted in advance. His cousin gave him an eye patch to tide him over, and, in desperation, he took expired eye drops his daughter gave him. “I had to try something,” he said.

McKenzie, who lives in rural Fort Gaines, wants to work again. But without benefits, he can’t get the care he needs to become well enough.

“I just want my body fixed,” he said.

KFF Health News is a national newsroom that produces in-depth journalism about health issues and is one of the core operating programs at KFF.

How to Propagate Bee Balm – Ultimate Guide?

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If you’re looking to grow a vibrant colored flowering plant without spending much, then bee balm would definitely fit the list.

With its firework-like blooms in shades of red, pink, purple, and white, bee balm (also known as Monarda) adds a burst of color to your backyard.

It’s not just about its wild charming appearance, this perennial plant attracts pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, bringing life and movement to your garden.

Native to North America, bee balm thrives in a variety of climates and is a breeze to propagate, especially through division.

To grow bee balm using rhizomes, simply dig up a section of the plant and cut a portion that has healthy roots and shoots.

Replant the divided rhizome just below the soil surface with the shoots facing upward, and keep the soil consistently moist until new growth appears and the plant becomes established.

Growing Requirements of Bee Balm

Bee balm thrives in full sun, needing at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily for the best flowering. However, in hotter climates, it appreciates a bit of afternoon shade.

It prefers rich, well-draining soil that’s kept consistently moist but not soggy. Adding compost or organic matter can improve both drainage and fertility.

Space plants about 18–24 inches apart to ensure good air circulation, which helps prevent powdery mildew—a common issue with bee balm.

Water regularly during dry spells, especially in the first year as the plant establishes. Once mature, bee balm is moderately drought-tolerant.

Deadheading spent blooms encourages longer flowering and a tidier look. In fall, you can cut the plant back to just a few inches above the ground.

How to Propagate Bee Balm Through Division (Rhizomes)?

Division is one of the simplest and most effective ways to propagate bee balm, especially for gardeners looking to expand their flower beds or rejuvenate aging plants.

Bee balm spreads through underground stems called rhizomes, which produce new shoots and roots over time.

As these rhizomes multiply beneath the soil, the plant can become dense, crowded, or start to die out in the center. Division helps refresh the original plant and gives you healthy new starts to plant elsewhere.

Best Time to Divide Bee Balm

The ideal time to divide bee balm is early spring, just as new shoots begin emerging from the soil. At this stage, the plant hasn’t yet devoted much energy to blooming, and the weather is cool enough to reduce transplant stress.

Fall is also a good option—once the plant has finished flowering, you can divide and transplant it before the first frost.

Avoid dividing during the peak of summer, when heat and flowering can make the process stressful for the plant.

Step-by-Step Guide: Dividing Bee Balm

  1. Water the Day Before
    Give the plant a deep watering the day before you plan to divide it. Moist soil makes digging easier and reduces shock to the roots.
  2. Dig Up the Parent Plant
    Use a garden fork or shovel to loosen the soil around the base of the bee balm. Dig several inches away from the crown to avoid cutting through too many rhizomes. Gently lift the entire clump out of the ground.
  3. Separate the Clump
    Shake off or gently wash away the soil so you can see the root system clearly. Using your hands or a sharp knife, divide the root mass into smaller sections. Each section should have a good portion of rhizome with attached roots and at least one or two healthy shoots or buds.
  4. Prepare the New Planting Area
    Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil. You can mix in compost or aged manure to enrich the soil before replanting.
  5. Replant the Divisions
    Plant each new division at the same depth it was originally growing. Space them 18–24 inches apart to allow room for air circulation and future growth. Firm the soil gently around the roots.
  6. Water Thoroughly
    Give each newly planted section a deep watering to help settle the soil and support root establishment. Continue to water regularly over the next few weeks, especially if rainfall is light.

Also Read: How to Plant Daylily Bulbs?

Dividing bee balm leads to healthier plants by removing older, woody portions that can hinder growth. The younger divisions have more energy to establish themselves and thrive in their new spots.

You’ll also enjoy more blooms, as divided plants often grow more vigorously and flower more profusely. It’s a cost-effective way to expand your garden or share bee balm with fellow gardeners—no need to buy new plants.

Another big benefit is disease management. Regular division improves air circulation, reducing the risk of common issues like powdery mildew. Aim to divide your bee balm every 2–3 years to keep it vibrant, manageable, and buzzing with pollinators.

How to Propagate Bee Balm from Cuttings?

Propagating bee balm from cuttings is a simple way to clone your favorite variety while speeding up the growing process. Unlike seeds, which can vary, cuttings ensure you get an exact replica of the parent plant in both color and form.

Also Read: How to Get Desert Rose to Bloom?

Best Time for Cuttings

The ideal time to take cuttings is in late spring to early summer when the plant is actively growing but not yet flowering. Look for soft, non-woody stems—these root faster and more successfully.

Step-by-Step Guide: Propagating Bee Balm from Cuttings

  1. Select a Healthy Stem
    Choose a 4–6 inch long, non-flowering stem from the upper part of the plant. Make your cut just below a leaf node using clean, sharp scissors or pruners.
  2. Prep the Cutting
    Remove the lower leaves, keeping only a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and focuses the plant’s energy on root formation.
  3. Use Rooting Medium
    Fill a small pot with a moist, well-draining medium like perlite, vermiculite, or a seed-starting mix. You can dip the cut end in rooting hormone to speed up the process, though it’s optional.
  4. Plant the Cutting
    Insert the stem into the soil about halfway and gently press the soil around it for support. Mist lightly with water.
  5. Create a Humid Environment
    Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or dome to trap moisture and create greenhouse-like conditions. Place it in a bright, indirect light area—not direct sun.
  6. Wait and Monitor
    Check every few days to keep the soil moist but not soggy. In 2–3 weeks, you should see new leaf growth or feel resistance when you tug lightly—signs that roots are forming.

Check this: 10 Big Leaf Houseplants for Your Indoor Jungle

How to Propagate Bee Balm from Seeds?

Growing bee balm from seeds is a rewarding process, especially if you’re starting a large pollinator garden. While it takes more time than other methods, it allows for greater variety and coverage.

Start seeds indoors 8–10 weeks before the last expected frost. Press them lightly into seed-starting mix—don’t cover them, as bee balm seeds need light to germinate.

Keep the trays in a warm, bright spot and mist regularly to keep the soil moist. Germination usually occurs in 10–14 days.

Once seedlings develop two sets of true leaves, transplant them into larger containers. After hardening them off, you can move them outdoors once the risk of frost has passed.

How Do You Take Care of Bee Balm?

After successfully propagating bee balm—whether through division, cuttings, or seeds—it’s important to provide the right care to help your young plants thrive. These early weeks and months are crucial for root development, healthy growth, and eventual flowering.

1. Watering Needs

Newly propagated bee balm plants need consistent moisture to establish strong roots. Water deeply but avoid waterlogging the soil. For divisions and cuttings, keep the soil evenly moist for the first few weeks.

Seedlings need lighter, more frequent watering—just enough to prevent the top layer from drying out. Once established, bee balm becomes more drought-tolerant, but consistent watering still encourages better blooming.

2. Sunlight and Placement

Bee balm thrives in full sun, requiring at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal flowering.

However, if you’re transplanting young cuttings or seedlings, give them partial shade during the hottest part of the day for the first week to prevent shock. Once they’ve adjusted, move or gradually expose them to full sun.

3. Soil and Fertilization

Make sure the soil is well-draining and rich in organic matter. If your garden soil is poor or heavy, mix in compost or aged manure before planting.

While bee balm isn’t a heavy feeder, you can apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer once or twice during the growing season to support lush growth and blooms—especially for younger plants.

Also Read: 19 Plants that Have Heart Shaped Leaves

4. Mulching and Weed Control

Apply a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

Keep the mulch a couple of inches away from the stem to prevent rot. This step is especially helpful for young divisions and seedlings, which can be sensitive to competition from weeds.

5. Pruning and Deadheading

As the plant grows, remove spent flowers (deadheading) to encourage continuous blooming. Pinch back new stems early in the season to promote bushier growth. In late fall, cut back the stems to about 2–3 inches above the ground, especially if you propagated the plant earlier that year—it helps conserve energy and prepares the plant for the next growing season.

6. Monitor for Pests and Disease

New bee balm plants can be more vulnerable to issues like powdery mildew, especially in humid conditions or if airflow is limited. Space your plants properly and avoid overhead watering.

If mildew appears, remove affected leaves and use an organic fungicide if necessary. Also, keep an eye out for aphids and spider mites—spraying with neem oil or insecticidal soap can help control them.

7. Support and Spacing

As bee balm matures, especially taller varieties, they may benefit from staking or light support to prevent flopping. Be sure to space plants 18–24 inches apart to allow for proper air circulation, which not only promotes healthy growth but also reduces disease risk.

With proper aftercare, your propagated bee balm plants will flourish—rewarding you with lush foliage, vibrant blooms, and a steady parade of pollinators throughout the summer. Care in these early stages sets the foundation for seasons of healthy, colorful growth.

Also Read: 18 Houseplants with Red and Green Leaves

How big does bee balm get?

Bee balm typically grows between 2 to 4 feet tall and spreads about 18 to 36 inches wide, depending on the variety. It forms clumps that gradually expand over time through underground rhizomes.

How much sun does bee balm need?

Bee balm thrives in full sun, requiring at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day for the best flowering. In hotter climates, a bit of afternoon shade can help prevent wilting or leaf scorch.

How do you care for Monarda (Bee Balm)?

To care for bee balm, plant it in rich, well-drained soil, water regularly to keep the soil moist (especially during dry spells), and deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Space plants well to improve airflow and reduce the risk of powdery mildew, and divide every 2–3 years to keep them vigorous.

Conclusion

Propagating bee balm through division, cuttings, or seeds is an easy, cost-effective way to grow this pollinator-friendly plant. With proper care—like watering, sunlight, and spacing—new plants establish quickly. Regular propagation every few years keeps bee balm healthy, vibrant, and blooming beautifully in your garden.

DIY Foaming Hand Soap

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I started making my own foaming hand soap early in my switch to a more natural lifestyle. With concerns over antibacterial soap and potty-training little ones who found the need to wash their hands/arms/the counter with soap a thousand times a day, I needed a healthy and frugal option.

Now that the kids are older (and not quite as messy), we still go through plenty of hand wash! Thankfully, there’s a homemade and incredibly simple option that works just as well. It also costs hardly anything to make per bottle, and it’s made with clean ingredients.

Simple DIY Foaming Hand Soap

The recipe itself is literally so simple that at one point, my then six year old was in charge of refilling the homemade foaming hand soap containers. I keep the few simple ingredients on hand, and we never have to buy hand soap or worry about running out. Surprisingly, this foamy natural soap also makes a decent shaving cream and body wash in the shower…

Before you begin, you’ll need a foaming hand soap bottle. I originally ordered this pretty foaming hand soap dispenser online. You can also just reuse the pump bottle of your favorite foaming hand soap.

Why Use Foaming Hand Soap?

Years ago, I got addicted to soap making, and we were always fully stocked with different bar soaps. Now that life is busier in different ways, I rely more on natural liquid soap and foaming hand soap to suds up. The foaming pump creates a nice lather but overall uses less soap than regular liquid hand soap.

This is great for little kids who think it’s fun to keep pumping the soap container over and over! And of course it’s much healthier (and cheaper!) than popular versions at places like Bath and Body Works.

Ingredients Used in Homemade Soap

The basic recipe is soap, oil, and distilled water. You can keep it unscented or add a few drops of essential oils. These not only help it smell nice but also add natural antimicrobial properties to tackle unwanted germs, without using synthetic antibacterial chemicals. I use Dr. Bronner’s castile soap, which comes in an unscented version as well as peppermint, lavender, citrus, and other essential oil scented versions.

I use olive oil in this recipe since it’s deeply moisturizing, but jojoba, sweet almond, or any liquid carrier oil will work. Just avoid using something solid like coconut oil. For extra glide, you can also add 1/2 tsp of glycerin.

Because this recipe uses water and does not have a preservative, it should be used within about a week. If you don’t go through it that quickly, you can cut the recipe in half. In our house, that’s not a problem though! The base recipe is 1 part soap to 12 parts water, so you can scale it up or down.

Here’s the (super simple) tutorial for how to make your own homemade foaming hand soap!

DIY Foaming Hand Soap Recipe

This easy foaming hand soap contains only water, liquid castile soap, moisturizing oil, and optional essential oils for a simple and frugal homemade soap.

Prep Time5 minutes

Total Time5 minutes

Yield: 13 ounces

Author: Katie Wells

  • Fill the soap dispenser with water to within about 1 inch of the top. Be sure to leave room for the soap pump foamer.

  • Add at least 2 tablespoons of liquid castile soap to the water mixture. NOTE: do not add the soap first or it will create bubbles when the water is added.

  • Add the oil and any essential oils if you’re using them.

  • Close and lightly swish to mix.

  • Use as you would regular foaming hand soap.

  • You’ll need a foaming soap dispenser for this soap. Either buy one online or reuse the bottle from a store-bought foaming soap.
  • If you don’t have distilled water, you can also use filtered water that’s been boiled then cooled.

Caution About Essential Oils

A 1/2 teaspoon of essential oils is still less than a 1% dilution, which is well below the general maximum amount for a wash-off product. However, more irritating oils like cinnamon, clove, oregano, and lemongrass should be used in a much smaller amount or avoided. Oils that have natural antimicrobial properties but are gentler on skin include lavender, orange, lemon, and tea tree essential oil.

If you’re using soap that already has essential oils in it, then you wouldn’t need to add more.

Do you make your own soap already? If not… will you start now? Share below!

How to Grow and Care for Italian Jasmine

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Chrysojasminum humile

Looking for a vine that delivers months of cheerful blooms with hardly any effort on your part? Italian jasmine might be just what your garden needs.

With its bright yellow flowers that pop from late spring through early autumn, Chrysojasminum humile is a reliable performer in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 to 10. It’s highly adaptable, unfussy, and practically takes care of itself once established.

A close up horizontal image of the bright yellow flowers of Italian jasmine (Chrysojasminum humile) growing in the garden.A close up horizontal image of the bright yellow flowers of Italian jasmine (Chrysojasminum humile) growing in the garden.

Whether you want something to cover a bare fence, climb a trellis, or spill over a retaining wall, this vine brings a bold splash of sunshine wherever it grows.

Ready to learn more? Here’s what we’ll cover:

This plant isn’t a true jasmine, despite the name. Italian jasmine is closely related to the plants in the Jasminum genus, but it’s classified in the Chrysojasminum genus instead.

The name “Chrysojasminum” means golden jasmine and includes about a dozen species. “Chryso” is Latinized Greek for gold, which is one of the features that sets this species apart from its white-flowered relatives.

Quick Look

Common name(s): Italian jasmine, yellow-flowered jasmine

Plant type: Vining or shrubby perennial

Hardiness (USDA Zone): 7-10

Native to: Afghanistan, Burma, China, Iran, Nepal, Pakistan, Tajikistan, Tibet

Bloom time / season: Summer

Exposure: Full sun

Soil type: Loose, well-draining

Soil pH: 5.5-7.5, slightly acidic to neutral

Time to maturity: 3-5 years

Mature size: Up to 15 feet high by 10 feet wide

Best uses: Climbing vine, shrub

Taxonomy

Order: Lamiales

Family: Oleaceae

Genus: Chrysojasminum syn. Jasminum

Species: Humile

C. humile is sometimes still listed under its former classification, Jasminum humile, so don’t be confused if you see both names used interchangeably. The reclassification is relatively recent.

Sometimes called Italian yellow jasmine, this species puts on a vibrant display of small, trumpet-shaped flowers from late spring through summer, followed by shiny black berries in the fall.

While the blooms don’t offer the heady scent associated with those of true jasmine, they do have a light fragrance that can be appreciated up close.

The foliage is glossy, medium green, and either evergreen or semi-evergreen depending on the climate.

Leaves are elliptical with smooth, entire margins, and unlike most true jasmines, they grow in an alternate pattern – staggered along the stem rather than opposite one another.

Plants can sprawl up to 20 feet in both height and width under ideal conditions, though they’re usually more restrained in garden settings.

A close up horizontal image of the bright flowers of Italian jasmine pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of the bright flowers of Italian jasmine pictured on a soft focus background.

Italian jasmine is native to a broad swath of Asia including Afghanistan, Burma, China, the Himalayas, Iran, Nepal, Pakistan, Tajikistan, and Tibet.

The plant has naturalized in parts of southern Europe, where it’s become a familiar sight.

It first made its way to Europe in the 1600s, where it was the earliest of the yellow-flowered jasmines to arrive.

By the 1800s, it had found a place of prominence in British orangeries and was frequently shipped alongside orange trees for display in glasshouses.

How to Grow

Italian jasmine is highly adaptable. While it prefers well-draining soil, it will happily grow in clay or sand.

Full sun encourages the best flowering, but the plant will tolerate partial shade, though it may bloom less impressively.

A horizontal image of a large Italian jasmine (Chrysojasminum humile) growing in the landscape.A horizontal image of a large Italian jasmine (Chrysojasminum humile) growing in the landscape.

It’s both heat and drought tolerant once established, though it does best with fairly consistent moisture. When the top inch or two of the soil dries out, it’s time to add more water.

You can easily test this by sticking your finger into the soil to your second knuckle. If it feels dry, water. Or use a moisture meter to be more accurate.

If you aren’t sure, don’t water. Overwatering is far more dangerous to this plant than letting it dry out a bit.

The soil should be anywhere between slightly acidic to slightly alkaline, but neutral is best.

Regardless of whether the soil is slightly sandy or errs on the side of clay, it should be well-draining. Humus-rich is a bit too much, somewhat depleted to moderately rich is ideal.

There’s no need to fertilize, but you can mulch with compost in the spring and late summer.

The nutrients from the well-rotted compost will work their way into the soil and nourish the plant, which isn’t a heavy feeder.

Varieties to Select

While there aren’t a huge number of cultivars to choose from, there are a few different varieties and forms you may encounter.

Microphyllum

C. humile var. microphyllum features a scrambling, semi-climbing growth habit that makes it ideal for use as a ground cover or trained against a support.

True to its name, it has smaller leaves than the species, giving it a finer texture overall.

Though it can be difficult to source, this variety is well-suited for rock gardens or for stabilizing slopes and banks where erosion control is needed.

Revolution

‘Revolution’ aka ‘Revolutum’ has larger, more fragrant flowers than the species, blooming reliably from late spring into early autumn.

This semi-evergreen cultivar grows to about eight feet tall and wide, with an upright, bushy habit and glossy green foliage that adds year-round interest in mild climates.

A close up horizontal image of Italian jasmine (Chrysojasminum humile) in bloom pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of Italian jasmine (Chrysojasminum humile) in bloom pictured on a soft focus background.

It tends to be grafted onto J. fruticans rootstock, which supports its vigorous growth. While not as frost-tolerant as the species, it remains evergreen in areas with mild winters.

In colder regions, heavy frosts may cause dieback, but it can regenerate from the base in spring. The Royal Horticultural Society awarded it the Award of Garden Merit in 1993.

Wallichianum

C. humile f. wallichianum is a botanical form originally described from specimens collected in Nepal and introduced to Britain around 1812.

This variant stands out for its distinctive foliage, typically bearing seven to 13 leaflets per leaf – more than the species average. Its growth habit is semi-evergreen and arching, reaching up to 10 feet tall under ideal conditions.

Unlike the species plant, wallichianum tends to produce fewer but more pendulous bright yellow blooms during the summer, sometimes lightly fragrant.

Though some taxonomists consider it synonymous with C. humile var. humile, the distinctive leaf structure and more relaxed flower clusters make it a recognizable and garden-worthy option, especially for those looking for a softer, more textured look in the landscape.

A notable cultivar is ‘Sunshine’ which stays about seven feet tall and wide with heaps of sunny yellow blooms.

This one is fast-growing, extremely tough, and more drought-tolerant than the species.

Maintenance

Italian jasmine can grow as a spreading, sprawling shrub that is far wider than it is tall, or it can grow as an upright shrub that is equally tall as it is wide.

Or it can take on a tree-like form, taller than it is wide and with a single main trunk.

A close up horizontal image of a hand from the left of the frame holding a pair of pruners and snipping the branch of a shrub.A close up horizontal image of a hand from the left of the frame holding a pair of pruners and snipping the branch of a shrub.

You can prune to shape it however you like, whether you want to train it upright, maintain a dense hedge, or espalier it along a support.

But whatever style you choose, wait to prune until after flowering has finished. Cutting earlier may reduce or eliminate the following year’s blooms.

 Learn all about pruning jasmine in our guide.

Propagation

There are multiple ways to propagate Italian jasmine, starting seeds, taking cuttings, or transplanting nursery start are the most common.

If you’d like to learn more about the slightly more complex and less common methods of air or mound layering, we cover those in more detail in our guide to propagating jasmine.

From Seed

Start seeds indoors about six weeks before the last predicted frost date in your region. Soak the seeds for about 24 hours in room temperature water before sowing to soften the seed coat.

While they soak, prepare small pots with a well-draining potting mix that includes compost or humus and a moisture-retentive material like coconut coir.

Sow each seed about half an inch to an inch deep, and water the soil thoroughly.

Set the pots in a spot with bright, indirect light. After the seeds germinate and the leaves emerge, put the pots in a spot with at least six hours direct light per day, or use a grow light.

From Cuttings

Take semi-hardwood cuttings in late spring when new growth has just begun to harden.

Using clean pruners, snip a six- to eight-inch section from the end of a healthy vine, making your cut just below a leaf node at a 45-degree angle.

Remove all but the top two leaves, then dip the cut end in rooting hormone to encourage root development.

Insert the cutting two to three inches deep in a four- or five-inch pot filled with moist potting soil. Firm the soil to keep the cutting upright and water gently.

Place the pots in a warm area with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil evenly moist, but never soggy. To maintain humidity, you can tent a clear plastic bag or place a glass cloche over the pot.

When you see new growth, remove the cover and begin gradually introducing the plant to direct sunlight. Start with 30 minutes a day, increasing exposure in half-hour increments over the course of a week.

Repeat this hardening off process again when it’s time to move the plant outdoors.

Transplanting

If you’ve started Italian jasmine from seed or cuttings, or picked one up at the nursery, the next step is getting it into the ground.

Dig a hole that’s twice as wide and twice as deep as the container the plant is growing in.

This gives the roots room to spread and prevents them from becoming tangled or circling, which can eventually girdle and weaken the plant.

Fill in around the roots with the removed soil and water well. Add more soil if the ground settles.

Pests and Disease

Italian jasmine is generally low-maintenance and rarely troubled by pests or disease. But no plant is completely immune.

Healthy specimens may occasionally host a few aphids, especially on tender new growth, but this rarely causes any harm.

Issues tend to appear when a plant is stressed. In those cases, aphids, mealybugs, and scale insects may show up in larger numbers, feeding heavily and causing discoloration, distorted leaves, and stunted growth.

Monitoring plant health and addressing stressors – such as underwatering, poor drainage, or lack of light – can go a long way toward preventing infestations.

Grow a Bit of Golden Sunshine

I firmly believe every garden benefits from some cheerful yellow to bring a little sunshine to the space, and Italian jasmine delivers just that.

A close up horizontal image of the yellow flowers of Italian jasmine (Chrysojasminum humile) pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of the yellow flowers of Italian jasmine (Chrysojasminum humile) pictured on a soft focus background.

With vivid, long-lasting blooms and semi-evergreen foliage, it brings warmth and color to the landscape season after season.

How will you use yours? Will it brighten a dull fence, climb an archway, or spill over a wall? Share your plans in the comments section below.

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