With large, showy flowers and a sweetly spicy scent, crinum lilies (Crinum spp.) are sensational for adding dramatic flair to many garden settings!
Each bulb offers two or three successive flower scapes, and each scape is topped in generous umbels that develop handsome trumpet-shaped blooms.
Colors are mostly in reddish tones such as apricot, burgundy, mauve, pink, scarlet, and white.
While each flower has a short life of only a couple of days, mature bulbs produce heavily laden umbels that bloom for weeks!
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Tough and low-maintenance, the robust bulbs develop large roots that regularly produce offsets, creating impressive stands of glossy green strappy foliage with multiple flower scapes.
Plants are long-lived perennials in mild climates, and when grown undisturbed, can last for generations. Some develop jumbo-sized bulbs that weigh as much as 20 pounds!
Outside of their hardiness range, crinum lilies can be enjoyed in large containers and moved into a sheltered spot protected from winter cold.
Does your garden need a splash of these striking, perfumed blooms? Then let’s uncover how to grow and care for crinum lilies!
Here’s what’s up ahead:
Members of the Amaryllis family with over 100 species, crinum lilies are long-lived perennial bulbs, but they are not true lilies.
They are known by several other common names including cemetery plant and cape, spider, or swamp lily.
Native to Africa, the Americas, Asia, and Australia, Crinum species are prized for the large and perfumed blooms that flower mostly in summer and into fall, although some open in mid or late spring.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Crinum lily, cemetery plant, cape, spider, or swamp lily.
Plant type: Perennial flowering bulb
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 7-11
Native to: Africa, Asia, Australia, and the Americas
Bloom time / season: Summer
Exposure: Full sun
Soil type: Organically-rich, well draining
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral
Time to maturity: 2-3 years for flowers
Mature size: 3-4 feet tall by 2-7 feet wide (depending on species)
Best uses:Containers, foundations, mass plantings, erosion control, and coastal or water gardens
Taxonomy
Order: Asparagales
Family: Amaryllidaceae
Genus:Crinum
Species:Americanum, x amibile, asiaticum, bulbispermum, x powellii, mooreii
The spreading clumps of long, lush foliage spread two to seven feet and scapes reach three to four feet tall, depending on the variety.
Many species and cultivars sport large, funnel-like blooms. However, some varieties like the spider lily (C. asiaticum) feature distinctively thin, wispy petals.
Hardy in Zones 7 to 11, all varieties thrive in full sun to partial shade and are highly adaptable to a range of soil conditions.
As the bulbs grow they also spread via offsets or “pups,” reliably developing into robust clumps with decent drought tolerance.
Exuding laid back elegance, crinum lilies are dependable garden performers that add eye-catching appeal to beds, borders, and containers or massed into drifts.
And they’re a stellar choice for erosion control on banks or hills with the boisterous bulbs and large roots perfect for soil stabilization.
Swamp lily (C. americanum).
Some species, including varieties of the popular starry-flowered native swamp lily (C. americanum), are well-suited for growth in aquatic locations with still waters or wet soil conditions, such as bogs, creek banks, marshes, pond edges, and swamps.
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Conjuring images of pastoral scenes and colorful cottage gardens, poppies are a charismatic addition to the landscape. There are over 60 species of true poppies (Papaver spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), which have a native distribution throughout northern and southern Africa, western Asia, southern and central Europe, and western North America. Their family, Papaveraceae, contains 42 additional genera, including other common garden plants like bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis and cvs., Zones 3–9).
Poppy varieties generally prefer average to poor soil and full sun, and are tolerant of dry conditions. Typically, the plants are hairy and exude sap that makes them resistant to browsing from deer and other herbivores. Many commonly grown poppies are annuals, completing their life cycle in a single season but persisting in the garden through reseeding. Others are short-lived perennials that are often grown functionally as annuals. Most selections are only available to purchase as seed. While they are easy to grow, knowledge and effort are required. With all the different species and selected varieties, poppies are a wonderful low-stakes way to experiment with color while adding ephemerality and serendipity to beds and borders.
Perennial poppy varieties provide years of bold color and may self-sow
Oriental poppies are reliable perennials with a wide variety of cultivars to choose from
Oriental poppy Photo by Adobe Stock
P. orientale and cvs.
Zones: 3–7
Size: Variable, typically up to 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun; medium, well-drained soil
Native range: Caucasus Mountains, Iran, and Turkey
Oriental poppy is the most common true perennial poppy available to gardeners. Along with the straight species (photo above), a variety of cultivars are available that display large flowers in shades of red, orange, pink, mauve, and white. The plants have basal rosettes of bright green, toothed leaves. Blooms emerge in mid-spring, typically from mid-May through early June. These poppies will disappear in summer heat and humidity but begin growing again when the temperatures cool off, and will return for the upcoming year.
Add them alongside other perennials that will continue to grow as the season progresses to ensure that summer gaps are filled. Maintenance is simple—a cutback to the ground after they have faded for the summer is typically all that’s required.
Papaver orientale‘Royal Wedding’ Photo by DoreenWynja.com
‘Royal Wedding’ is a selection that blooms with semidouble pure white petals that graphically contrast with the black patches at the base. Blooms are large, up to 6 inches wide, and when flowering, plants can grow to 34 inches tall. To enhance the contrast, grow ‘Royal Wedding’ alongside herbaceous perennials with dark foliage like ‘Husker Red’ penstemon (Penstemon digitalis ‘Husker Red’, Zones 3–8).
Papaver orientale ‘Prince of Orange’ Photo courtesy of New York Botanical Garden
A robust cultivar, ‘Prince of Orange’has semidouble brilliant vermillion petals that are slightly more orange than the species, and feature black spots at the center of the blossoms. This selection is especially eye-catching when its royal purple pollen sprinkles over the petals. Flowers are up to 5 inches across and stems grow to 3 feet tall when in bloom. These vibrant flowers are best complemented by soft blue ones like those of threadleaf bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii, Zones 5–8).
Papaver orientale‘Karine’Photo courtesy of New York Botanical Garden
‘Karine’ has shell pink petals that darken toward the interior. This selection differs from ‘Prince of Orange’ and ‘Royal Wedding’ with its single blooms that give it a more elegant shape, and its lack of black markings at the base of the petals. This poppy is a little more compact, reaching 28 inches tall when flowering, but the shorter height makes the stems less likely to flop or get damaged in stormy weather. Pair ‘Karine’ with bearded irises (Iris × germanica cvs., Zones 3–9) to reinforce the beauty of its blousy flowers.
Moroccan poppy offers a perennial presence in warmer zones
Moroccan poppy Photo by gapphotos.com/Mark Bolton
P. atlanticum
Zones: 5–9
Size: 1 to 2 feet tall and 1 foot wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
Native range: Algeria, Morocco, and Tunisia
Moroccan poppy is a short-lived perennial that persists year after year by seeding itself around. Flowering begins in May, and blooms continue to emerge sporadically throughout summer. This is a delicate species with thinner coral petals that, when sited well, are backlit, emitting a vibrant glow.
It will self-sow in areas with sharp drainage, like crevices and along the edge of pathways. In typical garden soil, it will need to be occasionally reseeded. This species is best used as a connecting thread, polka-dotted throughout the garden. Try growing it alongside other airy perennials that appreciate the same dry conditions, like white gaura (Oenothera lindheimeri and cvs., Zones 5–8).
Best Companion Plants for Perennial Poppy Varieties
Hardworking annual poppy varieties offer a wide range of colors and forms
Breadseed poppies have been cultivated for a long time, with the first written reference to them dating to around 3400 BCE. Yes, these plants produce opioids that are used in pharmaceuticals, but they also produce the poppy seeds that we eat and are wonderful garden plants. They are annuals, but the seeds are hardy and will self-sow if conditions are right.
The seed heads of ‘Bowling Ball’ breadseed poppy are even more impressive than its pretty flowers
‘Bowling Ball’ breadseed poppy Photo courtesy of Select Seeds, Co.
P. somniferum ‘Bowling Ball’
Zones: Annual
Size: 3 to 4 feet tall and 1 foot wide
Conditions: Full sun; well-drained soil
Native range: Eastern Mediterranean
‘Bowling Ball’ breadseed poppy, from the QIS® series, has leaves that are a soft green-blue and sculpturally wrap themselves around the stems. This selection is grown for its huge ornamental seedpods, which can get up to 2½ inches wide and persist in the garden or in a vase for many weeks after flowering. The preceding blooms are also showy, with fruit punch pink petals that fade to purple and white at the base. Grow this plant alongside other ornamental edibles like calendula (Calendula officinalis and cvs., annual). While you can grow breadseed poppies for ornamental purposes in the United States, it is illegal to do so in Canada.
‘Amazing Grey’ corn poppy stands out with its unusual blooms
‘Amazing Grey’ corn poppy Photo by millettephotomedia.com
Native range: Europe, northern Africa, and western Asia
Corn poppies are plentiful throughout their native range, adding eye-catching swaths of red to fields and meadows, and along transportation corridors. ‘Amazing Grey’ corn poppy differs from the straight species greatly; instead of the typical cadmium red flowers, this selection features 3-inch-wide blooms in shades of lavender, powder pink, mauve, and gray.
They can be either single or semidouble and will bloom throughout spring and into early summer, typically from mid-April through early June. Flowering can be prolonged by deadheading. This species dislikes root disturbance, so direct-sow the seeds outdoors or allow it to seed naturally. Try pairing it with cool-season grasses like feather reed grass (Calamagrostis × acutiflora and cvs., Zones 5–9) to emulate its native habitat.
‘Champagne Bubbles’ Icelandic poppy showcases all the colors of this unique species
‘Champagne Bubbles’ Photo courtesy of New York Botanical Garden
Native range: Northeastern Asia and northwestern North America
Icelandic poppies (confusingly not native to Iceland) were recently reclassified into the Oreomecon genus, along with several other Papaver species. They are technically short-lived perennials, but are most commonly grown as spring annuals because they do not thrive in hot and humid conditions. The show begins with large flower buds atop twisted stems that open in April, continuing until summer kicks in, typically in mid- to late June.
‘Champagne Bubbles’ is a series of cultivars that showcases the full flower color range of the species, with single blooms from scarlet to gold, orange to white, and pink to peach. Gardeners can order individual colors, but there is magic in the mixes that many suppliers offer. The blooms are large—up to 4 inches wide. They have a subtle citrus fragrance and make good cut flowers. You can extend the flowering season by deadheading. Grow ‘Champagne Bubbles’ alongside spring-flowering bulbs or other spring-bedding plants like wallflowers (Erysimum spp. and cvs., Zones3–9).
‘Ladybird’ scarlet poppy’s stark black and red flowers jump out of the landscape
‘Ladybird’ scarlet poppy Photo courtesy of New York Botanical Garden
P. commutatum and cvs.
Zones: Annual
Size: 12 to 18 inches tall and 8 to 10 inches wide
Conditions: Full sun; rich, well-drained soil
Native range: The Caucasus, Iran, and Turkey
Scarlet poppies distinguish themselves from other species with their graphic flowers. Blooms begin in mid-spring and continue until early summer, typically from May through June. They are bowl-shaped, about 2 inches across, and have vibrant red petals with large, square black splotches at the base. ‘Ladybird’ scarlet poppy is most commonly available in the trade and is very similar to the species. Scarlet poppies are less likely to self-sow, so when deadheading, collect seed to keep the population going. They complement other vibrant late-spring bloomers like woodland sage (Salvia nemorosa and cvs., Zones 5–9).
While you can find some poppies available for purchase online as bareroot plants, many are only available in seed form. Even if established, they will need to be replenished to be a permanent part of the garden. Knowing how to collect and start seed is crucial in maintaining a poppy show for years to come. Luckily, the process is fairly straightforward.
Harvesting and storing seed
Poppy seeds inside the flowering plant in a crop
Poppy flowers develop into capsules that contain fine seeds. Collect the pods as they begin to mature, placing them into a paper bag to fully dry and dehisce. Label and store in a cool, dry place until they are ready to use. For some species, the seed is perfectly hardy and will germinate on its own in spring. To achieve this, just leave some seedpods standing in the garden and allow them to scatter naturally.
Starting poppy seeds indoors
Sowing Poppy Z-Scape seeds in a small tray
Sow poppy seeds into a standard seed-starting mix, adding in extra grit or perlite if the media is too heavy. Do not cover seeds with soil, as they often need light to germinate. Bottom water to avoid the seedlings damping off. Seeds should generally be sown about six to eight weeks before planting out and can go into the garden once nighttime temperatures are mostly above 40°F. This can change slightly for different species, so follow the instructions on the seed packets.
Direct-sowing poppy seeds in the garden
Scattering seeds from Papaver somniferum
Poppies generally dislike root disturbance and take some time to recover from transplanting; because of this, direct-sow whenever possible. The timeline of direct-sowing should mimic when the plants would naturally disperse their seeds. For poppies, this would be anywhere from late fall through early spring. Since many poppy species are disturbance adapted, germination will improve if the soil in the immediate area is scratched up.
Tess Kuracina is the director of living collections and curator of herbaceous plants at the New York Botanical Garden.
PLANT SOURCES
The following mail-order sources may offer some of the plants featured in this article:
Dutch Grown, West Chester, PA; 833-693-8824; dutchgrown.com
Eden Brothers, Arden, NC; 855-440-2929; edenbrothers.com
Far Reaches Farm, Port Townsend, WA; 360-385-5114; farreachesfarm.com
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Written by one of the foremost experts on sports nutrition and performance, A Guide to Understanding Dietary Supplements takes a critical look at the dietary supplement industry. With an estimated 60 percent of adult Americans using dietary supplements every day, the need for a thorough examination of the hundreds of products on the market is long overdue. This comprehensive guide (Selected as an Outstanding Academic Title by Choice Magazine) presents straightforward analysis from a consumer’s perspective, giving you the facts on more than 140 supplements and information on which supplements work (and which don’t!) for a wide range of health conditionsfrom preventing cancer and heart disease to fighting diabetes and depression.United States Department of Agriculture surveys show that more than 70 percent of Americans fail to achieve daily recommended levels for many vitamins and minerals. With today’s emphasis on fitness, millions are investing their money and health in quick-fix solutions-supplements promoted as cure-alls to right nutritional wrongs, lower the likelihood of disease, and work dietary miracles. A Guide to Understanding Dietary Supplements presents a more realistic view of supplements as neither miracle cure nor nutritional sham, but as consumer products to be accepted or rejected based on scientific fact, not fitness fantasy.A Guide to Understanding Dietary Supplements looks at the pros and cons of dietary supplements in the areas of:
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Publisher : Routledge Publication date : December 19, 2002 Edition : 1st Language : English Print length : 740 pages ISBN-10 : 0789014564 ISBN-13 : 978-0789014566 Item Weight : 2.4 pounds Dimensions : 5.98 x 1.67 x 8.35 inches Best Sellers Rank: #2,690,286 in Books (See Top 100 in Books) #1,127 in Pharmacies #2,391 in Health Care Delivery (Books) #3,730 in Herbal Remedies (Books) Customer Reviews: 4.0 4.0 out of 5 stars (1) var dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction; P.when(‘A’, ‘ready’).execute(function(A) { if (dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction !== true) { dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction = true; A.declarative( ‘acrLink-click-metrics’, ‘click’, { “allowLinkDefault”: true }, function (event) { if (window.ue) { ue.count(“acrLinkClickCount”, (ue.count(“acrLinkClickCount”) || 0) + 1); } } ); } }); P.when(‘A’, ‘cf’).execute(function(A) { A.declarative(‘acrStarsLink-click-metrics’, ‘click’, { “allowLinkDefault” : true }, function(event){ if(window.ue) { ue.count(“acrStarsLinkWithPopoverClickCount”, (ue.count(“acrStarsLinkWithPopoverClickCount”) || 0) + 1); } }); });
Raising chickens can be fun and enthusiastic, but you must also deal with challenges like health issues, coop maintenance, and predators.
Internal worms are one such common problem most poultry owners experience.
While commercial dewormers have their place, many poultry keepers prefer natural approaches that are gentler on their birds and don’t require egg withdrawal periods.
In this write-up, we shall learn thoroughly about effective natural deworming methods for chickens.
These strategies can help maintain your flock’s health without harsh chemicals, keeping your chickens happy and your egg production steady.
From preventative coop management to powerful herbal remedies, you’ll discover how generations of poultry keepers have managed worm infestations using nature’s pharmacy.
Let’s explore how to make your feathered friends worm-free the natural way!
Understanding Chicken Worms
Before diving into treatments, it’s essential to recognize the common types of worms that affect chickens:
Roundworms: The most common internal parasites, appearing as spaghetti-like creatures in droppings. They can grow up to 3 inches long and live in the small intestine, absorbing nutrients meant for the chicken.
Cecal worms: Small worms that inhabit the ceca (intestinal pouches). While they cause minimal direct damage, they can transmit Histomonas meleagridis, which causes blackhead disease.
Tapeworms: Flat, segmented worms that attach to intestinal walls using hook-like mouthparts. They require an intermediate host like beetles, earthworms, or snails to complete their lifecycle.
Capillary worms: Tiny, thread-like worms that infect the crop, esophagus, and intestines, causing inflammation and thickening of the tissues.
Gapeworms: These distinctive Y-shaped worms reside in the trachea, causing gasping or “gaping” as chickens struggle to breathe around the obstruction.
What Are Signs of Worm Infestation in Chickens?
Detecting worms in chickens early is crucial to preventing severe health complications. While a mild infestation might not show obvious symptoms, a heavier worm load can lead to serious health issues.
Below mentioned are key symptoms to watch:
1. Pale Combs and Wattles
A pale or discoloured comb and wattles can indicate anaemia caused by heavy worm infestations, particularly those that feed on blood, such as capillary worms.
2. Weight Loss Despite Normal Eating
Chickens with worms often appear thin or underweight because the parasites steal nutrients from their digestive system.
3. Decreased Egg Production
If your hens suddenly lay fewer eggs or their eggs are smaller or have weak shells, worms might be depleting their nutritional reserves.
4. Lethargy and Weakness
Affected birds may appear sluggish, reluctant to move, or spend more time resting than usual. Severe infestations can make them too weak to perch or forage properly.
5. Diarrhea or Abnormal Droppings
Loose, watery, or foamy droppings can indicate an internal parasite problem. Some worm infestations cause blood or mucus in droppings.
6. Visible Worms in Feces
Roundworms and tapeworm segments may sometimes be seen in fresh droppings, especially in severe infestations. This is a clear indication that deworming is necessary.
7. Gasping or “Gaping” for Air (Specific to Gapeworms)
Chickens infected with gapeworms will stretch their necks and open their beaks repeatedly in a “gaping” motion as they struggle to breathe. This occurs because the worms block the trachea (windpipe).
8. Poor Feather Condition
Malnutrition caused by worms can lead to dull, ruffled, or patchy feathers.
9. Increased Scratching or Pecking at the Vent
Chickens may pick at their vents if they feel irritation from worms affecting their digestive tract.
If left untreated, a severe worm infestation can weaken a chicken to the point where it succumbs to infection, malnutrition, or anemia.
If you suspect worms, check droppings for visible parasites and monitor flock health. A vet’s fecal float test can confirm infections.
While chemical dewormers are effective, many poultry keepers prefer natural alternatives to avoid medication residues and support long-term flock health.
By focusing on prevention, natural remedies, and a well-maintained environment, you can control parasites without relying on synthetic treatments.
Pumpkin Seeds
Pumpkin seeds contain cucurbitacin, a natural compound that paralyzes worms, making it easier for chickens to expel them. Thus, pumpkin seeds are a safe, effective, and chemical-free deworming option.
Grind raw, unsalted pumpkin seeds and mix them with feed (1/4 cup per hen).
Offer whole seeds as a treat for chickens to eat freely.
Feed for three consecutive days and repeat monthly for prevention.
Use fresh seeds for the best results, as stored seeds may lose potency.
Diatomaceous Earth (DE)
Food-grade diatomaceous earth is made from fossilized algae. Its microscopic sharp edges damage parasites’ exoskeletons, dehydrating and killing them naturally.
Mix 2% DE into feed (1 pound per 50 pounds of feed).
Use only food-grade DE, as pool-grade DE is toxic.
Wear a mask when applying to avoid inhaling fine dust.
Sprinkle directly onto droppings boards or the coop floor to kill worm eggs and larvae.
Add 1 cup DE to 5 cups of dust bath material to help chickens naturally repel parasites.
Works best as a preventative rather than a treatment for heavy infestations.
Garlic
Garlic contains allicin, a natural antibacterial and antiparasitic compound that helps deter worms while boosting overall chicken health.
Add 2-3 crushed garlic cloves per gallon of drinking water.
Mix 1-2 minced cloves per 4-5 chickens into feed.
Ferment garlic in water for 24 hours to increase potency.
Use for one week on, one week off, repeating for a month.
For severe infestations, increase to 3-4 cloves per 4-5 chickens.
It also supports immunity and may help repel mites and lice.
Oregano
Oregano contains natural antimicrobial and antiparasitic compounds that help fight worms and infections.
Add 1 teaspoon dried oregano per hen to feed.
Brew oregano tea (2 tablespoons dried oregano per quart of hot water), cool, and add to drinking water.
Offer fresh oregano in the run for chickens to forage.
Mix 1 drop of food-grade oregano essential oil with one tablespoon of olive oil, then blend into 1 pound of feed.
Use for 5-7 consecutive days for best results.
It is also beneficial for respiratory health and coccidiosis prevention.
Preventing worms in chickens is far easier than treating an infestation. A strong prevention plan focuses on clean housing, proper nutrition, and natural anti-parasitic strategies to reduce the risk of worms taking hold in your flock.
Keep the Coop Clean
Keep the coop clean by removing droppings, using dry bedding, and deep-cleaning feeders. Proper deep litter management helps break down eggs.
Manage the Chicken Run Properly
A dry, well-drained run prevents worm infestations. Use gravel or wood chips to reduce moisture, rotate grazing areas to limit exposure, and avoid overcrowding to minimize parasite spread through droppings and foraging.
Support the Immune System with Proper Nutrition
Intense nutrition helps chickens resist worms. Offer a balanced diet, fresh water, and protein. Supplement with apple cider vinegar, garlic, oregano, thyme, pumpkin seeds, and diatomaceous earth to promote gut health and prevent parasites naturally.
Reduce Parasite Carriers
To reduce parasite exposure, keep feed covered to deter insects and wild birds. Manage slug and snail populations, as they often carry worm larvae that can infect your flock.
Monitor and Test Regularly
Monitor your flock for signs of worms like weight loss, pale combs, and abnormal droppings. Conduct fecal tests periodically and quarantine new birds for at least two weeks to prevent infestations.
Conclusion
Keeping chickens worm-free naturally requires prevention, a clean environment, and targeted natural treatments. While it takes more effort than chemical dewormers, it leads to healthier birds and residue-free eggs.
Every flock faces unique parasite risks, so it is essential to observe your chickens and adjust your approach. A consistent, natural deworming routine helps maintain a strong, productive flock.
Instead of relying on quick fixes, create a system that discourages parasites while supporting overall health, reducing worm issues, and allowing you to enjoy your chickens more.
Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting
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Mistletoe cactus (Rhipsalis baccifera) is an epiphytic stem succulent with a branching growth habit that clings to rocks or trees for support in the wild.
R. bacciferais not only an unusual looking cactus; it’s the only one with native habitat outside the Americas.
It’s endemic to the Caribbean, Central and South America, Madagascar, Southern Africa, and Sri Lanka. It is also considered an endangered species in southern Florida.
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Mistletoe cactus, aka spaghetti cactus is named for the white to pinkish berries that bear some resemblance to the festive holiday foliage that has become synonymous with a Christmas kiss.
However, the similarity ends there.
Christmas mistletoe (Viscum and Phoradendron species) is a toxic, leathery-leafed parasite with a rounded form that grows on host trees, depriving them of water and food.
Mistletoe cactus features string-like, leafless, cylindrical stems called cladodes, usually green but shading to red in harsh sunlight.
Read on for all you need to know to enjoy this unique cactus indoors as a houseplant.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
The stems are segmented and angular, yet they cascade gracefully.
At each stem joint and tip, small greenish-white flowers bloom in late winter to early spring, followed by translucent white berries.
Mature dimensions are 48 to 72 inches long and 12 to 24 inches wide, for a substantial specimen that shows well in hanging planters.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Mistletoe cactus, spaghetti cactus
Plant type: Epiphytic cactus
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors)
Native to: Caribbean, Central and South America, Madagascar, Southern Africa, Southern Florida, Sri Lanka
Soil type: Cactus and succulent soil plus coconut coir chips; sandy loam outdoors, well-draining
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral
Mature size: 48-72 inches long by 12-24 inches wide
Best uses:Hanging planter, houseplant
Taxonomy
Order: Caryophyllales
Family: Cactaceae
Genus:Rhipsalis
Species:Baccifera
There is also a naturally occurring subspecies, mouse tail cactus, R. baccifera subsp. horrida.
This one has shorter, thicker stems with spines, similar fruits, yellowish, white, or greenish flowers, and an average length of about 20 inches.
Another plant you may encounter is red mistletoe cactus, Pseudorhipsalis ramulosa, formerly Rhipsalisramulosa.
Red mistletoe cactus.
The red species co-evolved with our subject plant, but it has characteristics distinct enough to warrant classification in a separate genus.
Its flattened, ribbon-like green stems turn red in direct sunlight. Whitish-green flowers appear along the stem margins, followed by red berries.
Cultural requirements are similar for all three of these plants.
How to Grow
Mistletoe cactus is native to rainforest regions and accustomed to temperatures in the 60 to 80°F range. Unlike desert cacti, it thrives in regions with high humidity.
