Make this delicious egg salad with hard-boiled eggs, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, and fresh dill. Serve on sandwiches, crackers, or enjoy straight from the bowl.
Egg Salad Recipe
Pharmacy Technicians Top 200 Drugs Generic, Brand and Purpose
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Pharmacy Technician Top 200 drugs for studying with generic and brand names and purpose.
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Signs of Early Spring in Carla’s Pennsylvania Garden, Part 2
Hi GPODers!
When it comes to early garden color, Carla Zambelli Mudry in Malvern, Pennsylvania doesn’t fool around! We’re back in her garden today after enjoying a gorgeous array of early bloomers yesterday (be sure to check out Part 1, if you missed it), and we’re only scratching the surface of the early season interest that she has accumulated in her woodland landscape. Here is another scrumptious sampling of what was blooming and budding in Carla’s garden this March.
Hi GPOD!
It’s officially spring except I think we should say that with a question mark. We’ve had a handful of unseasonably warm days where temperatures plummet at night, reminding us that the calendar might say we’re headed in the right direction, but we’re not there yet. We even had snow flurries again a week or so ago.
In the garden, it has been galanthus and hellebores followed by some early crocuses and the early daffodils. A couple of shrubs are showing their early spring selves off. The giant Chinese pussy willows are working their way through their catkin season, and you can start to see the fuzzy greenness of the leaves that will follow. The witch hazel were fabulous while they lasted, and since the deer don’t like them and have decimated my camellias this winter, in spite of spraying, I might be adding more witch hazels to my repertoire.
I look forward to digging in literally, but I will have to temper those desires while I wait to have tree work done.
March came in like a lion and I think she’s going to leave that way too!
Carla Zambelli Mudry
Yesterday we saw a stunning witch hazel blooming in Carla’s garden, and today we have a relative of that winter bloomer that is even more underrated. Buttercup winter hazel (Corylopsis pauciflora, Zones 6–8) flowers a little later in the season than most witch hazels, and features these cascading clusters of light yellow flowers.
And there are many more cheerful daffodils in Carla’s well-curated collection. I have a particular fondness for these two-toned varieties, which better highlights the daffodil’s interesting form.
A pop of extra color from an orange trumpet is spectacular during the earliest days of the season.
Of course, most of the flowers that emerge this time of year are relatively low growers, but Carla isn’t afraid to get creative and find the angle that captures the simple beauty that makes this time of year special.
Even more elusive to admiration, nodding hellebores require some kneeling, bending, and/or crafty camera work to capture these stunning blooms.
One of the giant pussy willows (Salix chaenomeloides, Zones 5–8) that Carla mentioned in her intro, covered in catkins that have exploded into clusters of golden anthers.
Lastly, some bright pink azalea buds signal the succession of spring color that is to follow!
Thank you so much for sharing this stunning assortment of early season photos with us, Carla! Your assortment of bulbs and spring-flowering woodies is always a highlight on GPOD this time of year.
And I hope more GPODers join Carla in sharing the first signs of spring in their gardens! I know some gardeners are still patiently waiting for those first buds of the year to burst open, so anyone who has already had color emerge from their beds and borders would be a saint for submitting those scenes for us to enjoy on the blog. Follow the directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!
We want to see YOUR garden!
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.
You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
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Fine Gardening Recommended Products
Lee Valley Mini Garden Shear Set
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These shears have a distinctive finger rest that not only aids grip but allows greater freedom of movement than a conventional handle design. They have a durable powder-coat finish to resist rust and wear, and a simple clasp that locks the spring-action stainless-steel blades closed. The set includes one pair of round-nose shears measuring 5 1/2″ overall with 1″ blades for cutting stems up to 3/8″ in diameter, and one pair of 6 1/2″ needle-nose shears with 2″ fine-tip blades for precise work.
Organo Republic 16 Perennial Wildflower Seeds Mix for Indoor & Outdoors
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Homemade Guacamole Recipe
Make the best guacamole with less than 10 simple ingredients. Serve it with tortilla chips, alongside Mexican-inspired dishes, or on top of taco salads.
Introduction to Hospital and Health-System Pharmacy Practice
Price: $110.61
(as of Mar 31, 2026 22:36:46 UTC – Details)
Written by leaders and experts in hospital and health-system practices and published by ASHP, the voice of the health-system pharmacy profession, Introduction to Hospital and Health-System Pharmacy Practice is required reading for students and practitioners alike.
It’s a comprehensive manual for institutional pharmacy: legal and regulatory issues, medication safety, informatics, and more. Straightforward definitions and clear explanations provide a basic foundation for on-the-job training in hospitals and health-systems.
It’s the only introductory textbook available in institutional pharmacy practice.
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Each chapter presents learning objectives and answers the “so what?” so common among student questions. Chapter reviews, discussion guidelines, key word definitions and interactive exercises augment the learning process.
Written by hospital pharmacists for future hospital pharmacists, it’s everything important you need to know from the name you trust. For additional product resources about this publication, visit www.ashp.org/pharmacypractice
Publisher : ASHP
Publication date : July 20, 2010
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Customer Reviews: 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars (21) var dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction; P.when(‘A’, ‘ready’).execute(function(A) { if (dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction !== true) { dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction = true; A.declarative( ‘acrLink-click-metrics’, ‘click’, { “allowLinkDefault”: true }, function (event) { if (window.ue) { ue.count(“acrLinkClickCount”, (ue.count(“acrLinkClickCount”) || 0) + 1); } } ); } }); P.when(‘A’, ‘cf’).execute(function(A) { A.declarative(‘acrStarsLink-click-metrics’, ‘click’, { “allowLinkDefault” : true }, function(event){ if(window.ue) { ue.count(“acrStarsLinkWithPopoverClickCount”, (ue.count(“acrStarsLinkWithPopoverClickCount”) || 0) + 1); } }); });
Brown Butter Carrot Cake with Honey Cream Cheese Frosting
Carrots are one of our favorite vegetables and I’ll often make recipes like carrot coulis, carrot salad, or roasted carrots. This homemade carrot cake is another way to enjoy all that carrots have to offer. It’s simple to make, moist, and full of delicious flavors.
Years ago I came up with a grain and gluten-free carrot cake with pineapple. That recipe used coconut flour and lots of eggs for protein. While I still like that recipe and make it on occasion, I wanted to have another carrot cake recipe on hand that was more traditional.
Carrot Cake Ingredients
Now that our family includes some organic flour on occasion, I’ve been making more baked goods with it. It’s an easy way to make a healthier dessert that has the same taste and texture as traditional desserts. That doesn’t mean it’s packed with sugar, vegetable oils, or other ingredients I prefer to avoid though!
Carrot cake ingredients typically include flour, sugar, carrots, spices, oil, and eggs. Then there are the optional mix-ins like raisins, pineapple, and shredded coconut. This recipe is very similar, but I’ve opted for raw honey instead of sugar. And it uses butter instead of vegetable oil. Applesauce adds a little more moisture and natural sweetness.
Need a gluten-free carrot cake? Simply substitute a 1:1 gluten-free flour blend for the organic all-purpose flour.
How to Make Carrot Cake
The long list of ingredients can be intimidating at first, but this really is a simple recipe. You’re basically combining all of the wet ingredients, then combining all of the dry ingredients, then adding them together. Finally, you’ll stir in the mix-ins like carrots, raisins, and coconut.
There is the additional step of browning the butter first, which really adds an extra layer of flavor to the cake. Browned butter tastes a lot like caramel, but without the extra sugar.
Tip: When you’re browning the butter, be sure to keep a close eye on it. It needs to be removed from the stove after it’s browned, but before it’s gotten really dark brown (aka burnt). Because burnt butter carrot cake is not delicious.
Cream Cheese Frosting For Carrot Cake (Without Refined Sugar)
Carrot cake wouldn’t be what it is without the iconic cream cheese frosting. It adds a nice tang to the sweetness, so the dessert isn’t overwhelmingly sweet. Most cream cheese frosting recipes call for powdered sugar to help thicken and make it spreadable. My version uses raw honey for sweetness and butter for a buttercream frosting consistency. I prefer honey in this recipe, but maple syrup would taste good too.
Instead of powdered sugar to thicken, I used arrowroot starch (also known as arrowroot flour). It helps to thicken without making the frosting super sweet. Start with 2 Tablespoons of arrowroot and add more as needed to get the right consistency. You want it to be thick enough it won’t fall down the cake, but not so thick that it’s difficult to spread.
Different Pan Options
This cake is 4 layers high because I like the look of the extra layers. If you don’t have four 6-inch cake pans, then two 9-inch round pans will also work. Simply change the bake time to 30-35 minutes if using 9-inch pans. If you want to make cupcakes, then bake for 18-22 minutes.
You could also make a sheet pan carrot cake, but I haven’t personally tried it. Let me know if you do! If you’re craving carrot cake or need a fancy (but easy!) spring dessert, then give this carrot cake a try.
Brown Butter Carrot Cake With Honey Cream Cheese Frosting
This delicious carrot cake is moist and naturally sweetened with honey and
Honey Cream Cheese Frosting
-
Melt the butter over medium heat, swirling occasionally, until it foams and turns golden with a nutty aroma. Remove from heat and pour into a large mixing bowl, allowing it to cool for about 5 minutes.
-
Grate the carrots using the medium holes of a box grater.
-
Preheat the oven to 350°F and grease and line four 6-inch cake pans (or see notes for other pan options).
-
To the cooled brown butter, whisk in the honey or maple syrup, applesauce, eggs, coconut milk, and vanilla extract until smooth and fully combined.
-
In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cardamom, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
-
Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and stir until just combined, being careful not to overmix. Fold in the grated carrots, chopped nuts, raisins, and shredded coconut if using.
-
Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans and bake for 24–28 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
-
Allow the cakes to cool in the pans for about 10–15 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely.
-
To make the frosting, beat the cream cheese and butter together until smooth. Add the honey, vanilla, salt, and arrowroot starch, and continue beating until light, fluffy, and spreadable. Start with 2 Tablespoons of arrowroot and increase as needed to thicken the frosting to the desired consistency.
-
Place one cake layer on a serving plate and spread a layer of frosting on top. Repeat with the remaining layers. Apply a thin crumb coat over the entire cake. Refrigerate for 20–30 minutes to set before finishing with the remaining frosting.
Nutrition Facts
Brown Butter Carrot Cake With Honey Cream Cheese Frosting
Amount Per Serving (1 serving)
Calories 399
Calories from Fat 234
% Daily Value*
Fat 26g40%
Saturated Fat 15g94%
Trans Fat 0.4g
Polyunsaturated Fat 3g
Monounsaturated Fat 6g
Cholesterol 86mg29%
Sodium 306mg13%
Potassium 254mg7%
Carbohydrates 39g13%
Fiber 2g8%
Sugar 20g22%
Protein 6g12%
Vitamin A 3410IU68%
Vitamin C 2mg2%
Calcium 70mg7%
Iron 2mg11%
* Percent Daily Values are based on a 2000 calorie diet.
- Garnish with toasted nuts, a sprinkle of cinnamon, or a drizzle of honey if desired.
- Serve at room temperature for the best flavor and texture.
- You can also make this in two 9-inch round cake pans.
Does Carrot Cake Need to Be Refrigerated?
Since this recipe uses cream cheese, any leftovers should be refrigerated. I’ve also found that cakes/muffins made with applesauce or other fruit as a sweetener spoil faster at room temperature. How long does it last in the refrigerator? Well, as long as your family doesn’t eat it right away, it will last for up to a week!
It tastes best at room temperature though, so I like to pull it out and let the slice warm up before eating.
Can You Freeze Carrot Cake?
Yes, and no. Some recommend freezing the unfrosted and cooled cake layers or individual slices. They’ll last for about 2-3 months in the freezer this way. It is not recommended to freeze a whole, frosted carrot cake. The frosting can crack and it may not look as pretty, but it will still be tasty. Just be sure to use an airtight container to prevent freezer burn.
What are some of your favorite carrot recipes? Leave a comment and let us know!
How to Propagate Ice Plant from Cuttings and Division?
Ice plant, or Delosperma is a hardy sun-loving succulent that can be your ground covering plant.
Apart from locking moisture in the soil, it keeps weeds away and adds aesthetics to your gardening space with bright, cheerful pink, orange and yellow colored blooms.
You can easily multiply this succulent through propagation using either stem cuttings or division, both of which are beginner-friendly methods.
Simply snip a healthy, non-flowering stem, let it dry for a few hours to be callous, and place it in well-draining soil. Within days, it begins to root with minimal care.
For larger, established plants, gently separating clumps from the base and replanting them works just as well.
With plenty of sunlight and light watering, your new ice plants will quickly spread, forming a vibrant, low-maintenance carpet of color.
Propagating Ice Plant from Seeds Vs Cuttings Vs Division
When it comes to propagating ice plant, both seeds and cuttings work — but they give very different results
Seeds take more time and patience, while cuttings are quick and almost effortless. So the “best” method really depends on how fast you want results and how much effort you’re willing to put in.
Growing from seeds is a slower process. You need warm conditions, consistent moisture, and a bit of care during early growth.
Germination can take time, and not all seeds may sprout. It’s a good option if you want to grow many plants at once or enjoy starting plants from scratch, but it’s not the easiest route for beginners.
Cuttings, on the other hand, are the simplest and fastest way to propagate ice plants.
Since this succulent naturally spreads, its stems root very easily when placed in soil. There’s no waiting for germination, and you’ll see growth much quicker. Even beginners can succeed with very little effort.
Division is another easy and reliable method, especially for mature plants.
You simply lift the plant, gently separate rooted sections, and replant them.
It gives instant results because each division is already established. This method is great when your plant has grown dense and needs splitting, making it just as effective as cuttings for quick propagation.
Also Read: How to Care for Pink Princess Philodendron?
Best Time to Propagate Ice Plant
Spring and early summer is regarded as the best time to propagate an ice plant, when the weather is warm and the plant is actively growing.
- Faster rooting: During this period, stems root much faster, so your cuttings start growing in less time.
- Quick establishment: Divided plants adjust easily to new soil and begin growing without much stress.
- Better success rate: Overall, more cuttings and divisions survive and grow well compared to colder seasons.
- Ideal growing conditions: Warm weather supports new growth, and the soil dries at the right pace, which helps prevent rot.
Avoid propagating in winter or heavy rainy seasons, as cold slows growth and excess moisture can cause cuttings to rot before rooting.
How to Propagate an Ice Plant from Cuttings (Step-by-Step)?
This is the easiest and most reliable way to grow new ice plants. The best part? You don’t need any special tools or experience. Just follow these simple steps, and you’ll have new plants in no time.
1. Choose a healthy stem
Pick a fresh, green, and healthy stem from your ice plant. Avoid stems that are flowering, damaged, or dried out. A strong stem has more energy stored in it, which helps roots develop faster and more successfully.
2. Cut the stem properly
Use clean scissors or a sharp knife to cut a piece about 3–5 inches long. Make your cut just below a node (the spot where leaves grow). This is important because roots usually form from these nodes.
3. Remove lower leaves (if needed)
If your cutting has leaves near the bottom, gently remove them. This creates a clean section of stem that can go into the soil and prevents leaves from rotting under the surface.
4. Let the cutting dry (don’t skip this step)
Place the cutting in a dry, shaded place for a few hours or up to a day. This allows the cut end to form a protective layer called a callous. If you plant it immediately, it may rot—so this step really improves your success rate.
5. Prepare the right soil
Ice plants need well-draining soil. Use a sandy mix or a cactus/succulent potting mix. If you’re using regular garden soil, mix in some sand or perlite to improve drainage.
6. Plant the cutting
Insert the dried end of the cutting into the soil. You don’t need to plant it deep—just enough so it stands upright. Press the soil gently around it to keep it stable.
7. Water lightly
Give a small amount of water after planting. The soil should be slightly moist, not wet. Overwatering is the most common mistake and can quickly lead to rot.
8. Give proper light
Place the pot in a bright area with indirect sunlight for the first few days. Once the cutting settles, you can gradually move it to full sunlight, which ice plants love.
9. Be patient and watch for growth
Roots usually start forming within a few days to 1–2 weeks in warm conditions. You may not see them, but new leaves or growth on top is a good sign that roots are developing below.
10. Transplant if needed
Once your plant is well-rooted and growing, you can move it to a bigger pot or directly into the ground. It will continue to spread and form a beautiful ground cover.
Simple tip: Ice plants prefer a “less is more” approach. Plenty of sunlight, light watering, and good drainage are all they need to thrive.
Also Read: How to Propagate Geraniums from Cuttings?
How to Propagate an Ice Plant by Division?
Division is one of the fastest ways to multiply ice plants, especially when your plant has spread into thick, crowded clumps. The big advantage here is that you’re working with already established parts, so growth continues almost immediately.
1. Choose a mature, crowded plant
Look for a plant that has spread well and formed dense patches. These natural clumps make division easy and more successful.
2. Gently lift and separate
Carefully loosen the soil and lift the plant. Then, gently pull apart the sections. Each piece should have its own roots and stems attached.
3. Replant the sections
Place each divided clump into a new spot or container. Make sure the roots are covered properly and the plant is stable in the soil.
4. Let it settle and grow
Since these divisions already have roots, they don’t need much effort to establish. Within a few days, they adjust and continue growing like a mature plant.
Simple tip: Division is ideal when your ice plant becomes overcrowded. It helps you create new plants while keeping the original one healthy and well-spaced.
Soil and Pot Requirements for Ice Plant
Ice plants grow best when their soil and container setup allows water to drain quickly. Since they are succulents, they don’t like sitting in wet soil for long. The right mix keeps the roots healthy and prevents common problems like rotting.
- Use light, well-draining soil such as sandy mix or cactus soil
- If using garden soil, mix in sand or perlite to improve drainage
- Always choose pots with drainage holes to let excess water escape
- Avoid very large pots, as they hold more moisture than needed
- Ice plants can also grow well in the ground if the soil drains properly
Good drainage is the key—dry, airy soil keeps your ice plant healthy and growing strong.
Ice Plant Care After Propagation
Once your ice plant is propagated, this is the stage where it starts settling and growing new roots. It doesn’t need too much attention, but the right care will help it establish faster and grow healthier. Think of it as giving your plant a smooth start.
- Sunlight: Place your plant in a bright spot with plenty of sunlight. Ice plants love full sun, but for the first few days, you can keep them in indirect light to avoid stress. After that, gradually move them to direct sunlight.
- Watering: Water lightly after planting, then allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Ice plants store water in their leaves, so they don’t need frequent watering. Too much water is the biggest mistake.
- Soil condition: Always keep the soil loose and well-draining. If the soil stays wet for too long, roots can rot before the plant fully establishes.
- Protection from rain: Newly propagated plants are sensitive to excess moisture. If there’s heavy rain, try to move pots to a sheltered area or ensure proper drainage in the ground.
- Air circulation: Good airflow helps keep the plant dry and healthy. Avoid placing it in closed or humid spaces.
- Watch for new growth: After a few days or weeks, you’ll notice fresh leaves or spreading stems. This is a sign that roots have developed and your plant is doing well.
With proper sunlight, light watering, and good drainage, your ice plant will quickly settle in and start spreading beautifully.
Check this: 29 Easy Plants to Propagate from Cuttings
Common Mistakes to Avoid While Propagating
Overwatering is the most common mistake when growing ice plants. These plants store water in their leaves, so they don’t need frequent watering. Too much moisture can quickly lead to root or stem rot.
Using heavy or poorly draining soil can also cause problems. Ice plants prefer light, sandy soil that allows water to pass through easily. Wet, compact soil keeps the roots soggy for too long.
Skipping the drying step before planting cuttings is another mistake. If you plant a fresh cutting right away, it can rot. Letting it dry and form a callous helps protect it.
Lack of sunlight can slow down growth. Ice plants need bright light to stay healthy. Without enough sun, they may become weak and grow poorly.
Planting cuttings too deep or using pots without drainage holes can also harm the plant. Good drainage and proper planting depth are key to keeping your ice plant healthy.
Must Read: 13 Small Garden Ideas in Your Budget
How Long Does an Ice Plant Take to Grow?
Ice plant is a fast-growing succulent, especially when propagated the right way. But the time it takes can vary depending on the method you choose.
Cuttings are the quickest option. In warm conditions, they usually start forming roots within a few days to one week. You may not see the roots, but new leaf growth is a good sign that the plant is establishing.
Division is even faster because the plant already has roots. Once replanted, it settles within a few days and continues growing almost immediately without much delay.
Seeds take the longest time. Germination can take a couple of weeks, and the plants grow slowly in the beginning. It requires more patience compared to other methods.
Overall, if you want fast results, cuttings and division are the best choices, as they establish quickly and start spreading sooner.
Also Read: How to Propagate Black-Eyed Susan?
Conclusion
Ice plants are one of the easiest succulents you can grow and multiply at home. With simple methods like cutting and dividing, you can quickly turn one plant into many without much effort.
By choosing the right time, using well-draining soil, and avoiding overwatering, you give your plant the best chance to grow strong and healthy. Even if you’re a beginner, ice plant propagation is very forgiving and easy to learn.
Once established, these plants spread beautifully, adding bright color and acting as a natural ground cover in your garden or containers.
With just a little care and plenty of sunlight, your ice plants will continue to grow, spread, and thrive for years.
Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting
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How to Grow and Care for Hinoki Cypress Trees
You don’t need to give mature trees any water except during extreme heat and drought.
Fertilizer
Depending on your soil quality, you might not need to fertilize your hinoki cypress at all.
That’s why it’s best to test your soil before you start tossing in fertilizer.
You might find that your soil is already rich in nutrients or you may discover it’s a bit low in nitrogen, which is common.
Armed with the results, you’ll know exactly what to add so you aren’t over-or underfeeding. Reach out to your local Extension office for testing resources in your area.
While you can buy tests online, their accuracy varies widely, and these tests aren’t tailored to your specific region.
Cultivars to Select
You won’t usually see the straight species in home gardens, but the many cultivars are becoming increasingly popular with home growers.
There are plenty of dwarf options for smaller spaces, along with varieties spanning a wide color range, from deep bronze and bright gold to every shade of green imaginable.
Contorta
‘Contorta’ is an acrobat. The narrow branches twist, twirl, and spiral in a compact, dense shrub-like shape.
It reaches just four to eight feet tall and three to four feet wide at maturity, which happens slowly over decades.
In ideal conditions it can grow a little bit larger, but it tends to stay quite petite.
‘Contorta’ is sure to be a statement piece in the garden, whether in a container or in the ground.
You can find ‘Contorta’ in #3 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery.
Fernspray
‘Fernspray has flattened sprays of foliage that strongly resembles those of a fern on a shrub-like tree that reaches up to 12 feet tall and just four feet wide.
It has an interesting pyramidal form with gracefully curving branches.
Nature Hills Nursery carries this cultivar in #3 containers.
‘Fernspray Gold’ is similar in shape, though about two-thirds the size of ‘Fernspray.’
It has yellow-golden-tipped leaves that turn even more intense in the cooler months. It won the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) from the Royal Horticultural Society in 2012.
If you’d like to give this one a try, grab yours at Nature Hills Nursery.
Gracilis
Often called “slender hinoki cypress,” ‘Gracilis’ has a narrow, conical shape with gracefully angular branches that arch outward informally from a central trunk.
What makes it extra appealing is the dense, full growth that makes the straight species look positively sparse by comparison.
The shape makes it ideal for narrow spots or as a living fence.
You can find ‘Gracilis’ available from Fast Growing Trees in packs of one or four to suit your needs.
Kosteri
‘Kosteri’ usually goes by Koster’s hinoki false cypress, and was named for the Dutch nursery Koster and Son, where it was discovered.
It’s a slow grower that gradually matures to a mere four feet tall and wide, at most. It maintains a slightly rounded, pyramidal shape without any pruning.
The foliage takes on a slight bronze hue in the colder months.
Nana Gracilis
‘Nana Gracilis’ is one of the most popular cultivars. It was awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit in 1993 and has only gained more attention and accolades since.
Young plants have a compact, rounded shape that gradually becomes more conical as the tree matures to its full six feet tall and four feet wide.
It has gracefully arcing branches and a dense growth habit, and is more shade tolerant than the species.
You can find ‘Nana Gracilis’ plants available at Fast Growing Trees.
Snowflake
‘Snowflake’ is as charming as its name suggests.
It grows in a compact, round shape that may eventually reach four feet tall and wide given several decades.
While the shape is appealing, that’s not what makes ‘Snowflake’ especially fabulous.
The fern-like leaves are variegated with pale creamy golden tips when the foliage is young.
Bring home this unique option from Maple Ridge Nursery in a three-gallon pot.
Tempelhof
‘Tempelhof’ has more of a shrub-like than tree-like shape, typically without a strong central leader.
It grows to about eight feet tall with a pyramidal or conical shape and incredibly dense growth. The leaves take on a bronze hue in the winter.
It was cultivated at L. Konijn & Company’s Tempelhof Nursery in Boskoop, The Netherlands in 1964. You can find plants available from Nature Hills Nursery.
Maintenance
Left on their own, hinoki cypress develop a naturally interesting shape without any intervention.
That said, you can prune to manipulate the shape further, or simply stick to maintenance pruning to keep the tree healthy – the choice is yours.
Shaping involves looking at the tree and deciding if there are branches that should be removed to produce a pleasing appearance.
You might also cut or pinch back branch tips to encourage bushier growth. It’s almost like training a bonsai, only in giant size.
Maintenance pruning means removing any branches that are broken, dead, diseased, or rubbing against another branch.
In either case, use clean tools and make all cuts just in front of a branch or cleanly at the trunk.
Don’t cut into old wood if you can avoid it, because the tree might not send out new growth there and you’ll be left with a bare stump.
Cuts can be made at any time of year, but if you’re doing heavy pruning, late winter before new growth starts is ideal. Just make sure the wood isn’t frozen when you cut.
Propagation
If you want to try growing hinoki cypress by seed, feel free. Just treat it as a fun experiment and don’t be too disappointed if germination is poor or if the seedlings don’t thrive.
Starting this species from seed is genuinely difficult, and even if you succeed, there’s no guarantee the resulting tree will look anything like the parent.
For reliable results, cuttings are the way to go. The process is far more predictable, and the new tree will be a genetic replica of the parent plant.
From Cuttings
Take cuttings in spring or summer to give them the best chance to establish before the winter dormant season.
Look for a soft, pliable branch tip roughly the diameter of a pencil or slightly smaller, take a four- to six-inch cutting, making the cut at an angle to maximise surface area.
Dip the cut end into powdered rooting hormone.