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When to Start Tomato Seeds in Greenhouse?

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Tomatoes are popular among home gardeners, not just because of their taste, but because they’re surprisingly easy to grow and don’t need much maintenance.

And honestly, starting them from seed still costs way less than buying a full-grown plant from a nursery.

But here’s something many beginners get wrong—timing. Like most vegetable plants, tomato seedlings need a bit of extra care in the early stages.

And if you’re using a greenhouse, starting seeds at the right time can make all the difference between weak plants and a strong, productive harvest.

Don’t Start Too Early or Too Late

It’s tempting to start tomato seeds as soon as you feel that first hint of spring—but timing matters more than most gardeners realize.

Tomatoes grow fast, and if you start too early, they’ll quickly outgrow their space before it’s warm enough to move them outside.

On the flip side, starting too late means your plants won’t have enough time to develop, which can lead to a smaller and delayed harvest.

When seeds are started too early in a greenhouse, especially without enough light, seedlings can become tall, weak, and leggy. They may look like they’re growing well, but they struggle once transplanted.

Start too late, and you’ll be playing catch-up all season, with plants that stay smaller and produce fewer fruits.

Getting the timing right from the beginning sets the tone for strong, healthy plants later on.

So, When Should You Start Tomato Seeds in a Greenhouse?

A good rule of thumb is to start your tomato seeds about 6–8 weeks before your last expected frost date.

This window gives your seedlings enough time to grow strong roots and sturdy stems without becoming overgrown or stressed.

By the time outdoor conditions are warm and stable, your plants will be at that perfect stage—big enough to transplant, but not cramped or struggling in their containers.

But here’s where many gardeners get tripped up—your local climate matters more than the calendar. If you’re in a warmer region where frost ends early, you can start a bit sooner.

In cooler areas, it’s better to hold off, even if you’re eager to begin. Starting too early in a greenhouse that doesn’t get enough light or warmth can still lead to weak, leggy plants.

Also Read: 9 Tips for Growing Vegetables in a Greenhouse

Here are a few quick things to keep in mind:

  • Don’t rely on dates alone—watch your local weather
  • Make sure your greenhouse gets enough consistent light
  • Avoid letting seedlings sit too long in small containers
  • Wait until nights are warm enough before planning transplant

An easy way to take the guesswork out of it is to work backwards from your transplant date.

Think about when your outdoor temperatures are consistently warm (especially nighttime temps staying above 50–55F).

From there, count back 6–8 weeks—that’s your ideal seed-starting time. This simple trick helps you stay on track and avoids the common mistake of rushing things too soon.

Greenhouse Conditions that Actually Matter

Once you’ve got your timing right, the next thing that really makes a difference is your greenhouse environment.

Tomato seeds aren’t too fussy, but they do best when a few key conditions are just right—especially in those early stages.

Ideal Temperature for Germination and Growth

For germination, tomato seeds prefer warm soil, ideally around 70–80. At this temperature, seeds sprout quickly and evenly.

Once they’ve germinated, slightly cooler conditions—around 65–75F during the day—help seedlings grow strong without becoming too leggy.

If it’s too cold, growth slows down, and if it’s too warm without enough light, plants can become weak and stretched.

Check this: 17 Low Cost DIY Greenhouse Plans

Light Requirements (And What Happens If There’s Not Enough)

Light is just as important as temperature. Tomato seedlings need plenty of bright light—at least 12–16 hours a day.

In a greenhouse, this usually means placing them where they get maximum sunlight.

If light levels are low, seedlings will start leaning and stretching toward the light source, becoming thin and fragile, which makes them harder to manage later.

Humidity and Airflow Basics

Humidity plays a role early on, helping seeds germinate, but once seedlings appear, airflow becomes more important.

Too much moisture combined with still air can lead to problems like damping off, where seedlings suddenly collapse.

Allowing fresh air to circulate—by opening vents or ensuring gentle airflow—keeps plants healthier and reduces the chances of disease.

Also Read: When to Start Planting Seeds Indoors?

Starting Seeds the Right Way (Without Overcomplicating It)

You don’t need a fancy setup to start tomato seeds successfully. In fact, keeping things simple often works best.

As long as you get a few basics right, your seeds will germinate just fine and grow into healthy seedlings.

Soil Mix, Containers, and Depth

Use a light, well-draining seed-starting mix rather than regular garden soil. It helps prevent compaction and allows roots to develop easily.

You can use seed trays, small pots, or even recycled containers with drainage holes. Plant the seeds about ¼ inch deep, cover lightly with soil, and gently firm it down—no need to press too hard.

Watering Do’s and Don’ts

Watering is where many beginners go wrong. Keep the soil consistently moist, but never soggy.

Overwatering can lead to rot or damping off, while letting the soil dry out too much can stop germination. A gentle mist or bottom watering works well to avoid disturbing the seeds.

Simple Setup that Works

Place your containers in a warm spot inside the greenhouse where they get good light. You can cover trays with a humidity dome or plastic wrap to retain moisture until seeds sprout, but remove it once seedlings appear.

Keep things clean, warm, and well-lit—that’s really all you need to get started without overcomplicating the process.

How to Care Young Tomato Seedlings?

Once your tomato seeds have sprouted, the real work begins. This stage is all about helping your seedlings grow strong and steady, not fast and weak. A little attention here makes a big difference later on.

When to thin Seedlings

It’s common for multiple seeds to sprout in the same cell or pot. While it might feel wasteful, it’s best to thin them early.

Once seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, keep the strongest one and snip the others at the base instead of pulling them out. This avoids disturbing the roots and gives the remaining plant enough space to grow properly.

Feeding (Or Not Feeding Too Early)

Tomato seedlings don’t need fertilizer right away. Most seed-starting mixes already provide enough nutrients for the first couple of weeks.

Once the seedlings have a few sets of true leaves, you can start feeding lightly with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Overfeeding too early can do more harm than good, leading to weak or burnt roots.

Preventing Leggy Plants

Leggy seedlings are thin, stretched, and weak—usually caused by not enough light or too much warmth.

To prevent this, make sure your seedlings get plenty of bright light and keep temperatures slightly on the cooler side after germination.

If needed, rotate trays regularly so plants grow straight. Strong light and proper spacing are the key to compact, sturdy seedlings.

Common Mistakes that Set You Back

Even when you do most things right, a few small mistakes can slow your tomatoes down. The good news is—they’re easy to avoid once you know what to watch for.

Starting Too Early in a Warm Greenhouse

It might seem like a head start, but starting seeds too early in a warm greenhouse often backfires.

Seedlings grow quickly, and without the right light and space, they can become tall, weak, and hard to manage before it’s even time to transplant. You end up babysitting plants longer than needed, which adds more work and stress.

Not Enough Light = Weak Plants

Tomatoes love light, and seedlings need a lot of it from day one. If they don’t get enough, they stretch toward the light source, becoming thin and fragile.

These leggy plants may survive, but they rarely grow into strong, productive plants later on. Good light is one of the biggest factors in early success.

Overwatering and Damping Off

Too much water is one of the most common issues when starting seeds. Constantly wet soil can lead to damping off, a fungal problem that causes seedlings to collapse suddenly.

It’s frustrating because everything can look fine one day, and the next, your seedlings are gone. Keeping the soil moist—not soaked—and allowing some airflow helps prevent this problem.

When and How to Transplant Seedlings?

After weeks of careful growing, there comes a point when your tomato seedlings are ready to move on. Transplanting at the right time—and doing it the right way—helps them settle quickly and keep growing without stress.

Signs Your Seedlings Are Ready

Your seedlings are ready when they have at least 2–3 sets of true leaves, sturdy stems, and a well-developed root system. They should look compact and healthy, not tall and floppy. Another good sign is when roots start filling the container but aren’t tightly bound yet.

Hardening Off (Even from a Greenhouse)

Even greenhouse-grown seedlings need a bit of adjustment before facing outdoor conditions.

Start by exposing them to fresh air and slightly cooler temperatures for a few hours a day, gradually increasing the time over a week. This process, called hardening off, helps prevent transplant shock and prepares plants for wind, sun, and temperature changes.

Moving to Garden Beds or Bigger Pots

When transplanting, choose a warm, calm day if possible. Plant tomatoes deeper than they were in their pots—bury part of the stem, as it can grow additional roots.

Water well after transplanting and provide support early, like stakes or cages, so plants grow upright from the start.

Check this: 48 Vegetables You Can Plant in March

Conclusion

Growing tomatoes from seed in a greenhouse doesn’t have to be complicated. Keep things simple, focus on timing, and give your seedlings the right conditions early on.

In most cases, a small tweak—like starting seeds at the right time or improving light—can make a huge difference in the strength of your plants and the size of your harvest.

Peanut Sauce Butter Beans

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If you are a peanut butter-lover like me, you’re going to want to make these peanut sauce butter beans for dinner tonight. It all comes together in 10 minutes and you cook the sauce and beans in one pan.

peanut sauce butter beans in a skillet with cilantro and chili crisp

This peanut sauce butter beans recipe is the next in line for my No Boring Beans series on social media. As a self-proclaimed bean-lover, it has been so fun for me to come up with new bean focused recipes for this series. I’m also someone who is obsessed with peanut butter, so it was only a matter of time before I paired two of my favorite foods together.

Making a quick peanut sauce is one of my go-to ways for packing a ton of flavor into a dish that might otherwise be pretty simple like this rainbow tofu stir fry. These butter beans can be served with naan for dipping or complete the meal by adding them to a bowl with rice and colorful veggies.

Ingredients You’ll Need

Here’s a basic rundown of some of the key ingredients you’ll need for this celery salad recipe. See the recipe card at the end of the post for the full ingredient list and amounts you’ll need.

  • Peanut butter: use a creamy style peanut butter; and honestly, the runnier the peanut butter the better. (We like the one from Costco!)
  • Sesame oil: use toasted sesame oil to add a rich, nutty flavor that complements the peanut butter in the sauce.
  • Ginger: use fresh ginger instead of the dried ginger in a jar for more flavor. A tip, we keep our fresh ginger in the freezer so it lasts longer because we rarely use up a whole ginger root before it gets sad when storing on the counter.
  • Butter beans: I really like the size and creamy texture of butter beans for this dish but you could swap them out for a different bean. Chickpeas and white beans would also work well.
peanut sauce butter beans in a bowl with rice, purple cabbage, and cucumber

How to Make this Butter Bean Recipe

Whisk Together the Sauce: Add the peanut butter, water, soy sauce, sesame oil, sriracha, ginger, and garlic to a skillet over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and whisk for 2-3 minutes or until thick and creamy. 

Stir in the Beans: Add the butter beans and stir well to coat in sauce. Cook for another 2-3 minutes to warm up the beans. Garnish with chili crisp, cilantro, and sesame seeds. 

Serve: Serve with naan or pita for dipping or scoop into a bowl with rice and veggies.

peanut sauce butter beans in a skillet garnished with cilantro and chili crisp

Make Ahead and Storage

Make Ahead: this saucy bean recipe takes just a few minutes to put together so you likely don’t need to do much advance prep. However, if you did want to get ahead, you could make the sauce in advance and store it in the fridge–then just warm it up in the skillet with the beans when you’re ready to eat.

Storage: store these beans will keep in an airtight container for up to 3-4 days in the refrigerator.

butter beans in a creamy peanut sauce in a skillet

Print

Peanut Sauce Butter Beans

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If you are a peanut butter-lover like me, you’re going to want to make these peanut sauce butter beans for dinner tonight. It all comes together in 10 minutes and you cook the sauce and beans in one pan.
Course Dinner, Entree
Cuisine Asian-inspired
Diet Vegan
Prep Time 2 minutes
Cook Time 8 minutes
Total Time 10 minutes
Servings 4 servings
Calories 315kcal

Ingredients

Instructions

  • Add the peanut butter, water, soy sauce, sesame oil, sriracha, ginger, and garlic to a skillet over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and whisk for 2-3 minutes or until thick and creamy.
  • Add the butter beans and stir well to coat in sauce. Cook for another 2-3 minutes to warm up the beans. Garnish with chili crisp, cilantro, and sesame seeds.
  • Serve with naan or pita for dipping or scoop into a bowl with rice and veggies.

Notes

Leftovers can be stored in the fridge in an airtight container for up to 3-4 days.

Nutrition

Serving: 1g | Calories: 315kcal | Carbohydrates: 23g | Protein: 14g | Fat: 20g | Saturated Fat: 4g | Polyunsaturated Fat: 6g | Monounsaturated Fat: 10g | Sodium: 617mg | Potassium: 594mg | Fiber: 7g | Sugar: 6g | Vitamin A: 3IU | Vitamin C: 2mg | Calcium: 35mg | Iron: 2mg

The post Peanut Sauce Butter Beans appeared first on Dietitian Debbie Dishes.

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Dit Da Jow Recipe | Wellness Mama

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Years ago our whole family started taking Jujutsu for a season. We all enjoyed it, but the rolls, throws and climbing definitely came more easily to the kids! Any activity that involves wooden swords and rolling will inevitably create some bumps and bruises along the way.

After one class that left us particularly sore, the Sensei (teacher) shared a traditional herbal remedy. It’s been used in Asian countries for pain relief and rapid healing for years. Dit Da Jow (literally translated “hit wine medicine”) is essentially an herbal tincture or liniment packed with healing herbs.

What is Dit Da Jow?

Dit Da Jow is an analgesic liniment traditionally preferred by martial artists. Often a martial arts master blends his unique mixture of many aromatic herbs like myrrh, ginseng, and traditional TCM herbs. The combination helps stimulate circulation, reduce pain and swelling, and improve injuries and speed wound healing.

The tradition became known as “hit medicine”. Many people have also found this liquid analgesic useful for reducing muscle aches, arthritis, and rheumatism discomfort.

Dit Da Jow Recipes

I researched traditional Dit Da Jow recipes and while it was hard to find many of them (most are considered secret family recipes), I finally found a mixture that works really well for us. Traditional Dit Da Jow uses a long list of herbs that are native to Asia, many of which are hard to find in the US.

The version I came up with has the same benefits, but many of the herbs are found in the US. While this wouldn’t be considered true Dit Da Jow, it’s been very effective for our bumps and bruises. It also helps speed recovery of non-martial arts related injuries so I keep it stocked in our natural medicine cabinet. 

You can also find more traditional Dit Da Jow here if you want to try it.

The Benefits of Dit Da Jow

Overall Dit Da Jow helps reduce swelling and speed healing from bumps and sprains. Since the recipes are all so different, I’ll just give a quick overview of the benefits of the herbs I chose. 

  • Arnica – Often used for strains, sprains, and bruising.
  • Plantain leaf – A go-to herb for soothing and healing minor wounds, cuts, and irritated skin. Plantain also helps reduce inflammation and supports recovery from skin damage. 
  • Comfrey leaf – Nicknamed “boneknit,” comfrey rapidly heals skin and supports bone healing.
  • Frankincense – This resin helps calm inflammation and promote tissue repair. It’s a favorite for soothing sore muscles, joints, and damaged skin topically.
  • Myrrh – Known for its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, myrrh supports wound healing. It also reduces swelling and eases pain in bruised or strained tissues.
  • Fennel – Fennel offers gentle warming and anti-inflammatory support to help relieve muscle tension. It also promotes circulation for faster recovery.
  • Angelica Root – This warming root helps ease pain and inflammation in muscles and joints while supporting circulation for faster healing times. 
  • Calendula – A gentle herb that promotes rapid healing of cuts, scrapes, and irritated skin. It’s also soothing and reduces inflammation for overall tissue repair.
  • Dandelion root – Rich in minerals, dandelion root supports detox and lessens inflammation. It’s used to help reduce swelling in sore muscles and joints.
  • Horsetail – High in silica, horsetail strengthens connective tissues and supports bone and ligament repair for better resilience after injury.
  • Nettle leaf – Packed with minerals and micronutrients, nettle nourishes tissues, reduces inflammation, and helps ease muscle and joint pain.
  • Clove – Clove is a warming analgesic that eases deep muscle pain and supports circulation for faster recovery.
  • Turmeric – This powerful anti-inflammatory herb helps reduce swelling and pain in muscles, joints, and ligaments while supporting the body’s natural healing process.

How Does Herbal Liniment Work?

The alcohol extracts the beneficial properties from the herbs. When applied topically alcohol quickly absorbs into our skin and works quickly. You may be familiar with making herbal tinctures to take internally, this is just a topical version. This recipe is for external use only, it’s not the kind of tincture you take internally.

Yes, the recipe does call for a lot of herbs, but I’ve seen it get rid of bruises and pain overnight! This Dit Da Jow recipe has been really effective for our family and others I’ve shared it with.

Dit Da Jow Muscle Liniment Recipe

Prep Time5 minutes

Steeping Time42 days

Total Time42 days 5 minutes

Author: Katie Wells

  • Place all of the herbs in a 16 ounce glass mason jar.

  • Fill the rest of the jar with food-grade, 80-proof or higher alcohol and stir with a clean spoon.

  • Put the lid on the jar. Store the jar in a cool/dry place, shaking daily, for at least three weeks and up to 1 year. I usually leave the herbs for six weeks.

  • Strain through cheesecloth and compost the herbs. Store the tincture in colored dropper bottles or clean glass jars.

Use on skin as needed to help with bruises, sore muscles and pain. Do not use on cut or broken skin.

As with any natural remedies consult with a natural healthcare practitioner before using, especially if you’re pregnant, nursing, or have medical conditions. 

Shelf Life and Storage

Traditionally Dit Da Jow is brewed for months, if not years. Some research has shown that a batch steeped for 5 years had significantly more benefits than one steeped for 1 year. You probably don’t want to wait that long before using your liniment though. I’ve found that even 6 weeks is enough to get herbal benefits. Plus, the traditional recipes are often made with Chinese root herbs that are tougher than plantain, calendula, etc.

You can keep the herbs in the jar and strain the liquid out as needed. Just be sure the herbs stay completely covered in alcohol. Once you’ve used more of the liquid, just strain the herbs out. Store your Dit Da Jow in a cool, dark place, away from direct light and heat. 

What are your favorite herbal remedies for muscle aches and pains? Share below!

21 Aggressive Herbs to Cultivate With Care

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Also, while we refer to the culinary and/or medicinal uses of the following herbs, we do not advocate their use without consulting a qualified healthcare professional, as they may interact with prescribed medications, causing adverse reactions.

1. Caraway

Caraway, Carum carvi, is suited to Zones 4 to 10 cultivation. Its musky, anise-like fruits, called seeds, give rye bread its licorice undertones. The leaves and roots are also edible.

These herbs are biennial, producing a long taproot and foliage in the first year, blooming and setting seed in the second.

A square image of caraway flowers with bees foraging on the umbels pictured on a soft focus background.

Caraway

They prefer full sun and moist, sandy, organically-rich soil. Mature dimensions are 24 to 36 inches tall and 12 inches wide.

Unharvested seeds fall and germinate the following year.

Caraway seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

Learn about growing caraway here.

2. Catnip

Catnip, Nepeta cataria, thrives in Zones 3 to 9. The fuzzy leaves of this herb have a long history of use as a digestive aid, plus they have a euphoric effect on cats.

Perennial catnip is a member of the mint family with similar leggy stems. Plants prefer full sun, average soil, and low to moderate moisture. They reach 36 inches tall with an equal spread.

A square image of the foliage of catnip growing in the garden.A square image of the foliage of catnip growing in the garden.

Catnip

Digging and dividing the rootstock in the spring thins overcrowded patches and can help mitigate the spread.

Catnip seeds and plants are available from Burpee.

See our catnip growing guide for more information.

3. Chamomile

Chamomile is prized for having aromatic flowers and leaves with a calming effect that is said to promote restful sleep and aid in digestion. There are two types: German and English.

German chamomile, Matricaria chamomilla, aka M. recutita, is an annual herb that grows in Zones 2 to 8, thriving in full sun with sandy soil and dry to moderate moisture.

Mature dimensions are 12 to 24 inches tall and nine to 12 inches wide. This species self-sows prolifically.

A close up of a packet of German chamomile seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.A close up of a packet of German chamomile seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.

German Chamomile

The English variety, Chamaemelum nobile, aka Roman or garden chamomile, is a perennial best suited to Zones 4 to 9 with a preference for full sun to part shade and moderately moist, sandy soil.

The species has a low profile of four to six inches tall and six to 12 inches wide, and multiplies via runners.

German chamomile seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

Our guide to growing chamomile has details.

4. Chervil

Chervil, Anthriscus cerefolium, aka winter chervil or French parsley, grows in Zones 3 to 9.

Its sweetly aromatic leaves hint of anise and are one of the “fines herbes” essential to French cooking.

Three types of this herb are available: common flat leaf, mild and curly ‘Crispum,’ and dark, flat leaf ‘Vertissimo.’

A cool-weather spring to summer annual for Zones 3 to 6 and a biennial in Zones 7 to 9, chervil produces a long tap root and a bushy clump of foliage in the first year and blooms and sets seed in the second.

A close up square image of the foliage of chervil pictured on a soft focus background. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.A close up square image of the foliage of chervil pictured on a soft focus background. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.

Winter Chervil

Plants prefer evenly moist, organically rich loam and partial shade achieving mature dimensions of 12 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide, and they spread via robust self-sowing.

Winter chervil seeds are available from True Leaf Market.

Learn more about growing chervil here.

5. Chives

Chives, Allium schoenoprasum, are suited to Zones 3 to 9. Their hollow, grass-like leaves have a mild onion flavor that is best when eaten uncooked.

Cool-weather chives are spring-to-summer blooming perennial bulbs that prefer full sun to partial shade, sandy loam, and even moisture.

A close up of a packet of chives seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.A close up of a packet of chives seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.

Common Chives

Plants mature to heights of 12 to 24 inches with an equal spread, and multiply via the production of bulb offsets that require regular division to contain.

Common chive seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

Check out our guide to growing chives here.

6. Comfrey

Comfrey, Symphytum spp., thrives in Zones 4 to 9. Its fuzzy, minty leaves and tuberous roots have a long history of use to help wound healing.

Perennial comfrey is an adaptable herb, thriving in full sun to full shade with poor to average soil and moderate moisture. Mature dimensions are 36 to 48 inches tall and wide.

A close up square image of comfrey with purple blooms growing in the summer garden.A close up square image of comfrey with purple blooms growing in the summer garden.

Comfrey

The S. x uplandicum hybrid is best for the home garden as it is a sterile variety that does not self-sow.

However, the strong roots alone can readily increase its presence in the landscape.

Comfrey seeds are available from Earthbeat Seeds.

See our guide to growing comfrey for more information.

7. Dill

Dill, Anethum graveolens, is suited to cultivation in Zones 2 to 11.

The aromatic seeds and leaves, aka dill weed, have a somewhat grassy, anise-like flavor, most notably used to prepare dill pickles.

These herbs thrive in full sun with poor to average soil and moderate moisture. Expect heights of eight to 48 inches and a spread of four to 24 inches.

A close up square image of freshly harvested 'Mammoth' dill on a wooden chopping board with potatoes and garlic.A close up square image of freshly harvested 'Mammoth' dill on a wooden chopping board with potatoes and garlic.

‘Mammoth’ Dill

Although dill is an annual, abundant self-sowing often results in a flush of new plants the following year.

‘Mammoth’ is an outstanding cultivar that may achieve a height of six feet.

Seeds are available from True Leaf Market.

Read our guide to growing dill.

8. Epazote

Epazote, Dysphania ambrosioides, grows in Zones 4 to 12. The pungent leaves are used in traditional Central American and Mexican cooking and have an anise-citrus-creosote flavor.

An annual herb in cool regions and perennial in warmer ones, epazote thrives in full sun, tolerates various soils, and requires moderate moisture.

Expect a mature height of about 48 inches and a width of 18 inches.

A close up of a bunch of freshly harvested epazote isolated on a white background. To the bottom right of the frame is a black circular logo with text.A close up of a bunch of freshly harvested epazote isolated on a white background. To the bottom right of the frame is a black circular logo with text.

Epazote

In addition to being a prolific self-sower, epazote foliage contains ascaridole, a naturally occurring chemical compound that suppresses the development of neighboring plants.

Epazote seeds are available from True Leaf Market.

Learn more about growing epazote here.

9. Fennel

Common fennel, Foeniculum vulgare, and the sweeter Florence variety, F. vulgare var. azoricum, grow in Zones 4 to 9.

They have licorice-flavored seeds and vegetable-like bulbs.

F. vulgare is on Washington state’s noxious weed quarantine list, prohibiting its sale and distribution.

Florence fennel and cultivars of this bulbing variety are excluded from the banned list as these plants are less likely to become invasive as harvest time generally comes before flowering.

A square image of Florence fennel growing in the garden.A square image of Florence fennel growing in the garden.

Florence Fennel

A cool-weather crop, fennel is a short-lived perennial or biennial that prefers full sun and moderately moist loam. Mature dimensions are 24 to 72 inches tall and 18 to 36 inches wide.

These herbs have a deep taproot. Those that flower before harvest time may self-sow.

Florence fennel seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

See our fennel growing guide for more information.

10. Feverfew

Feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium, grows in Zones 5 to 10.

It’s a bitter medicinal herb and the flowers and leaves have a history of use as a soothing agent for arthritis, digestive issues, and headaches.

Short-lived perennial feverfew is also cultivated as an annual and prefers full sun, sandy loam, and moderate moisture. Mature dimensions are 8 to 24 inches tall and wide.

A close up of a packet of feverfew seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.A close up of a packet of feverfew seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.

Feverfew

Prolific self-sowing can lead to this herb naturalizing in areas where it’s not welcome.

Feverfew seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

Our feverfew growing guide has details.

11. Horehound

Horehound, Marrubium vulgare, is suited to cultivation in Zones 3 to 9 and has leaves that taste like a cross between licorice and root beer, the classic flavor of the signature hard candy.

This perennial herb prefers full sun to partial shade, sandy loam, and low moisture. Mature heights are up to 30 inches with a spread of 24 to 36 inches.

A square image of horehound herbs growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.A square image of horehound herbs growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

Horehound

Like its cousins, mint, motherwort, and oregano, horehound increases its footprint in the landscape via runners and self-seeding.

Horehound seeds are available from Earthbeat Seeds.

You’ll find more information in our guide to growing horehound.

12. Horseradish

Horseradish, Armoracia rusticana, grows in Zones 2 to 9. Historically, the leaves, flowers, and roots were used medicinally.

Today’s consumers enjoy the roots as a hot and spicy condiment.

A close up horizontal image of horseradish foliage growing in the garden.A close up horizontal image of horseradish foliage growing in the garden.

Perennial horseradish thrives in full sun to partial shade. It requires loose, loamy soil to accommodate the thick taproots, and moderate moisture.

Mature dimensions are two to three feet tall and wide. When harvesting, it’s essential to remove all rootstock to inhibit prolific spreading.

See our horseradish growing guide for more information.

13. Lemon Balm

Lemon balm, Melissa officinalis, is a perennial herb in Zones 3 to 7. The lemon-scented leaves have a history of use as a pain remedy and are often brewed into tea and jellied.

Plants prefer full sun to partial shade and do well in average soil with little supplemental water once established. Mature dimensions are one to three feet tall and two to three feet wide.

A close up of a packet of lemon balm seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.A close up of a packet of lemon balm seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.

Lemon Balm

They are dynamic self-sowers.

Lemon balm seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

Our lemon balm growing guide has details.

14. Marjoram

Marjoram, Origanum majorana, aka sweet marjoram, is a perennial in Zones 7 to 9.

A cousin to mint, motherwort, and oregano, marjoram has long been used to treat aches and ailments and has a floral, piney flavor used in various types of cooking.

Plants prefer full sun and sandy loam, and have low water requirements. Mature dimensions are 12 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide.

A square image of sweet marjoram growing in a summer garden. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.A square image of sweet marjoram growing in a summer garden. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.

Sweet Marjoram

The bushy clumps grow slowly but multiply readily via self-sowing and runners.

Sweet marjoram seeds are available from True Leaf Market.

Read our guide to growing marjoram here.

15. Mint

Mint, Mentha spp., thrives in Zones 3 to 11. Spearmint, M. spicata, and peppermint, M. piperita, are two popular species.

Historically used to relieve digestive upset, headache, and a host of disorders, mint is used worldwide to flavor food and products.

The various species of this perennial herb prefer full sun to partial shade and loamy soil. Water needs are high. Mature heights are two to three feet tall with an equal spread.

A square image of spearmint growing in a wooden raised garden bed.A square image of spearmint growing in a wooden raised garden bed.

Spearmint

Mint reproduces rapidly via runners and self-sowing and can quickly take over areas of the garden.

You can find spearmint seeds available from Burpee.

Our guide to growing mint in the garden (without it taking over!) has details.

16. Motherwort

Motherwort, Leonurus cardiaca, grows in Zones 4 to 8 and has a history of use by herbalists to treat female discomfort and heart conditions.

It’s a perennial herb that thrives equally well in full sun or full shade, tolerates various soils, and has low water requirements. Heights soar to five feet with a width of three feet.

A square image of motherwort flowers growing in the garden.A square image of motherwort flowers growing in the garden.

Motherwort

This species is a relative of mint that naturalizes via runners and self-seeding.

Motherwort seeds are available from Earthbeat Seeds.

Our motherwort growing guide has more information.

17. Oregano

Oregano, Origanum vulgare, is suited to cultivation in Zones 5 to 10. The somewhat bitter, camphor-like leaves give pizza sauce its zing.

Cultural requirements include full sun, average soil, and moderate water. Expect a height of 12 to 24 inches and a width of 18 to 24 inches.

A close up square image of Italian oregano growing in the garden.A close up square image of Italian oregano growing in the garden.

Italian Oregano

Like mint, it self-sows and sends out runners.

Italian oregano seeds are available from Burpee.

See our guide to growing oregano for details.

18. Russian Tarragon

Tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus, grows in Zones 4 to 9.

The leaves of the Russian type, A. dracunculoides pursch, aka false tarragon, have a mild licorice flavor when the leaves are young but it fades as they age.

Perennial tarragon thrives in full sun with light afternoon shade in the warmest regions. It prefers loamy soil and moderate moisture.

Mature dimensions are 24 to 36 inches tall and 12 to 15 inches wide.

When shopping for tarragon herbs, if the listing doesn’t say “French,” it’s likely Russian, and unlike the non-invasive French varieties, will send out runners and self-sow.

A square image of a bunch of freshly harvested tarragon bound with string and set on a wooden surface.A square image of a bunch of freshly harvested tarragon bound with string and set on a wooden surface.

Russian Tarragon

If you know you prefer the mild flavor of Russian tarragon, cultivate it with the appropriate constraints.

Otherwise, choose the French variety for a full-bodied taste and a better-behaved herb.

Russian tarragon seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

Our tarragon growing guide has more information.

19. St. John’s Wort

St. John’s wort, Hypericum pyramidatum, grows in Zones 4 to 8. The flowers and fuzzy leaves have long been used in herbal medicine to ease a variety of complaints.

Cultivation of this herb is restricted in multiple western states and is listed as a noxious weed. It is highly toxic to livestock, so check before planting.

A close up square image of yellow St. John's wort flowers in a wooden bowl set on a wooden surface.A close up square image of yellow St. John's wort flowers in a wooden bowl set on a wooden surface.

St. John’s Wort

Perennial St. John’s wort prefers full sun to part shade and any type of moist soil, provided it drains well. Mature dimensions are two to five feet tall and one to three feet wide.

Plants spread via runners, and self-sowing. 

St. John’s wort seeds are available from Eden Brothers. 

20. Shiso

Shiso, Perilla frutescens, is a tropical herb suited to perennial cultivation in Zones 10 to 11 that grows as an annual elsewhere.

The green to purple leaves are sweet-nutty-citrusy and are used whole in various recipes.

A close up of a packet of green and red shiso (Perilla) seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.A close up of a packet of green and red shiso (Perilla) seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.

Shiso

It grows full sun to part shade with organically rich loam. Mature dimensions are 36 inches tall with a spread of 18 inches.

Vigorous self-sowing can lead to this herb becoming somewhat invasive.

Shiso seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

21. Sweet Woodruff

Sweet woodruff, Galium odoratum, is suited to Zones 4 to 8.

The whorls of narrow leaves have an aroma of fresh-mown hay and are used as a drink garnish and an ingredient in a white wine punch called “May wine.” The flowers are also edible.

A close up horizontal image of sweet woodruff growing in the garden with bright green foliage and white flowers.A close up horizontal image of sweet woodruff growing in the garden with bright green foliage and white flowers.

Perennial sweet woodruff thrives in partial to full shade with moderately wet, average soil. It can tolerate drier soil in full-shade locations.

Mature dimensions are six to 12 inches tall and nine to 18 inches wide.

Plants readily naturalize via runners and self-seeding.

Tips for Controlling Sprawl

When the herbs you want to cultivate have aggressive tendencies, there are a variety of methods you can use to keep them from spreading.

Inhibit Seed Setting

Limiting or preventing self-sowing is one way to slow unwanted sprawl. Regularly pinch back the growing tips of the stems to prevent them from budding.

A horizontal image of two hands from the top of the frame using a pair of scissors to snip off a flower stalk from a basil plant.A horizontal image of two hands from the top of the frame using a pair of scissors to snip off a flower stalk from a basil plant.
Deadheading basil prevents seed set. 

This also helps the plants to grow more bushy rather than leggy.

If buds form, pinch the budding stems off before blooming. After blooming, remove the flower stalks before the petals fade.

Learn more about deadheading here.

Plant in Pots

In addition to inhibiting seed setting, you can grow your herbs in pots to contain root sprawl.

Trim stems that creep over the sides of the containers to prevent them from rooting into the ground or a neighboring pot.

A close up vertical image of herbs growing in terra cotta pots on the patio.A close up vertical image of herbs growing in terra cotta pots on the patio.

When growing in containers, remember that the soil tends to dry out faster than ground soil. Use a moisture meter to check them daily and water as needed.

Another strategy for root containment is to use plastic pots with a depth of 24 inches. Cut the bottom out and sink the bottomless pots directly into the garden soil.

Grow Near Pavement

PRISTINE Toilet Paper Spray – As Seen on Shark Tank, More Natural Personal Cleansing Wipes & Flushable Wet Wipes Alternative, Spray Toilet Paper to Create Flushable Wipe, Original, 4 fl oz

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The U.S. Healthcare Ecosystem: Payers, Providers, Producers, Second Edition

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Price: $76.00 - $61.98
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An Essential Guide to the Processes and Operational Complexities of the U.S. Healthcare System
The U.S. Healthcare Ecosystem, Second Edition serves as an expert navigator through the complicated and often confusing environment where healthcare payers, healthcare providers, and producers of healthcare technologies all interact. This thorough, updated resource delivers expert analysis of employer-based health insurance, pharmacy benefits, the major professions, healthcare consolidation, drug discovery and development, biotechnology, and much more.
The author, a seasoned professor of management at The Wharton School, provides insight into important themes, including how the goals of healthcare relate to the “the iron triangle” (cost, quality, and access) and “the triple aim” (per capita cost, population health, and patient experience). Chapters include brief but timely cases that inspire you to think more critically about the healthcare industry and make informed assessments.
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Coverage of often neglected topics impacting healthcare delivery such as employer-based health insurance, pharmacy benefits, healthcare consolidation, and biotechnologyThe most current statistics and industry developmentsHelpful diagrams, charts, and tablesChapter ending summaries and Questions to PonderA 160-page Instructor Manual containing answers for the Questions to Ponder, talking points for the critical thinking exercises, as well as ready-to-use PowerPoints of all tables and figures within the textInsights and feedback from 60+ professors
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Your professional path begins here. Let us help guide your way.Your professional path begins here. Let us help guide your way.

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For over 130 years, we have never stopped innovating to meet the ever-changing needs of educators and learners around the world – and will continue to support and celebrate their efforts every step of the way.

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Publisher ‏ : ‎ McGraw Hill / Medical
Publication date ‏ : ‎ June 5, 2025
Edition ‏ : ‎ 2nd
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Print length ‏ : ‎ 704 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1265941467
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1265941468
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 2.35 pounds
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Strong Summer Bloomers for the Southeast

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When you invest in a new flowering plant for your garden, you hope to receive a return on your investment: a healthy plant that puts on a beautiful peak-season performance for as many years as possible. However, with seemingly ever-increasing options available at your local garden centers and nurseries, as well as weather conditions that trend toward the volatile and unpredictable, it is becoming more difficult to make smart plant selections. Well-loved varieties are no longer performing as expected and some new additions are not worth the hype they receive, so how do you ensure your garden investment isn’t a complete gamble? If you’re looking to add some more vibrant blooms to your garden this growing season, consider one of the four selections below. These plants will provide a long season of abundant blooms, and will do so without needing a lot of fussing, prodding, or endless watering on your part.

A heat-tolerant perennial, hummingbird plant scores extra points for flashy foliage that contrasts beautifully with its tubular blooms.

1. Hummingbird Plant

Name: Dicliptera suberecta

Zones: 7–10

Size: 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil

Plants that do it all are in vogue, and hummingbird plant certainly fits the bill. The silvery, elliptical leaves cannot be missed. Caressing them is reminiscent of suede, and I like to mingle this Uruguayan species with short, darker green ornamental grasses. It also attracts pollinators. In early summer the plant erupts into hundreds of tubular vermilion flowers that are the perfect shape and color to attract ruby-throated hummingbirds. It is tolerant of our Southern heat, and once established, it needs little if any irrigation.

Cheyenne Spirit Coneflower
For a sea of sensational color, ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ coneflower provides a wonderful mix of hues.

2. ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ Coneflower

Name: Echinacea ‘Cheyenne Spirit’

Zones: 4–9

Size: 2 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to dry, well-drained soil

If my students can grow this native coneflower, then so can you! Its stellar growth and flowering earned it an All-America Selections award and Europe’s FleuroSelect Gold Medal. Unlike most coneflowers grown from seed, ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ can bloom in its first year. When it does, it electrifies the landscape with a warm-colored rainbow of colors that includes hues like berry pink, tomato red, watermelon coral, papaya orange, lemon yellow, and sweet cream. As is typical of coneflowers, the inflorescence is the perfect perch for passing pollinators.

Bidwills Coral Bean
The long inflorescences of Bidwill’s coral bean unravel over the course of several weeks, which makes the bloom period of this shrub lengthy and lively.

3. Bidwill’s Coral Bean

Name: Erythrina × bidwillii

Zones: 7–10

Size: 8 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil

While most plants that breeders cross come and go, Bidwill’s coral bean has stood the test of time for more than 150 years. This mammoth shrub blooms throughout the summer, with numerous long racemes that remind me of ristras of peppers, as the flowers resemble carmine chilis. And an individual inflorescence takes several weeks to fully elongate, which extends the floral spectacle. The medium-sized, trifoliate leaves provide coarse texture in the landscape. I like to cut mine back in late winter, as this species will die to the ground in northern zones but emerges from the base each spring.

Grape Sensation Texas Firewheel
The purple cultivar of this Texas native is just as resilient to the region’s toughest conditions.

4. ‘Grape Sensation’ Texas Firewheel

Name: Gaillardia aestivalis var. winkleri ‘Grape Sensation’

Zones: 7–9

Size: 15 to 24 inches tall and 24 to 36 inches wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; lean, well-drained soil

This flowering powerhouse is tough enough for parking lot beds. It blooms for most of the summer, and once finished, the individual blossoms morph into a geodesic orb of seeds that will scatter and produce more of this incredible plant. This species is fun to show kids because it has flame-resistant leaves. Hold a leaf up to a flame, and it won’t catch fire. Because it’s endangered and restricted to only a few counties in Texas, search out the purple-flowered form called ‘Grape Sensation’. This cultivar sports purple ray florets instead of the typical white.

 

Find more fantastic summer flowers:

Discuss this article or ask gardening questions with a regional gardening expert on the Gardening Answers forum.

And for more Southeast regional reports, click here.

Jared Barnes, Ph.D., is an assistant professor of horticulture at Stephen F. Austin State University in Nacogdoches, Texas.

Photo: Bill Johnson

Carrot Cake Cookies

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Overhead view of carrot cake cookies topped with a cream cheese frosting and sprinkled with walnuts and cinnamon.Enjoy all the flavors of carrot cake in these soft-baked cookies made with fresh carrots and warm spices. Includes a delicious cream cheese frosting.

Pharmacy Calculations: An Introduction for Pharmacy Technicians, 2nd Edition

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Price: $66.00 - $39.97
(as of Mar 18, 2026 09:55:55 UTC – Details)

Comprehensive Resource for Pharmacy Technician Learners of All Types

Offering a complete review of the basic mathematics concepts and skills, Pharmacy Calculations: An Introduction for Pharmacy Technicians, 2nd Edition provides students with the pharmacy basics necessary for correctly interpreting prescriptions and drug orders, and for performing dosing calculations that technicians face every day.

The second edition has been streamlined to focus on the most important pharmacy calculation concepts—covering the fundamentals related to accuracy and basic math operations, units of measurement and conversions, critical thinking in problem solving, dosing calculations, percentages, concentration calculations, compounding formulas, intravenous infusion calculations, and business math.

Inside the New Edition

The chapters are broken down into four units and organized to complement most pharmacy technician training curricula and to support the ASHP—ACPE model curriculum:Review of MathematicsSystems of MeasurementPreparing for Problem Solving in PharmacyDosing Calculations and other Pharmacy Problems

Key features throughout the book include:

Chapter objectivesKey terms and definitionsExamples of problem scenarios or calculations questions and solutions”Tech Note!” – provides a highlight of key points within the chapters”Numbers at Work” – illustrates why key concepts are important to know and skills are critical to masterPractice problemsAppendices that include the parts of a prescription, a glossary of terms, conversions, and abbreviations tables
Publisher ‏ : ‎ American Society of Health-Systems Pharmacists
Publication date ‏ : ‎ November 28, 2020
Edition ‏ : ‎ 2nd
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Print length ‏ : ‎ 240 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1585286389
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1585286386
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 1 pounds
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 8.25 x 0.5 x 10.75 inches
Best Sellers Rank: #951,764 in Books (See Top 100 in Books) #413 in Pharmacies
Customer Reviews: 3.9 3.9 out of 5 stars (4) var dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction; P.when(‘A’, ‘ready’).execute(function(A) { if (dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction !== true) { dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction = true; A.declarative( ‘acrLink-click-metrics’, ‘click’, { “allowLinkDefault”: true }, function (event) { if (window.ue) { ue.count(“acrLinkClickCount”, (ue.count(“acrLinkClickCount”) || 0) + 1); } } ); } }); P.when(‘A’, ‘cf’).execute(function(A) { A.declarative(‘acrStarsLink-click-metrics’, ‘click’, { “allowLinkDefault” : true }, function(event){ if(window.ue) { ue.count(“acrStarsLinkWithPopoverClickCount”, (ue.count(“acrStarsLinkWithPopoverClickCount”) || 0) + 1); } }); });