Unless you’re in the southernmost United States, you probably experience a period of dormancy in your garden in winter. Deciduous trees and shrubs drop their leaves, herbaceous perennials dry and wither to crispy brown stalks, and even evergreens seem to stall their growth in anticipation. At first glance, dormancy might look like death for many plants, but it’s really a process of survival that enables perennials to persist from one year to the next.
There are two kinds of dormancy: Some plants enter endodormancy, which is timed by the plant’s internal clock, and others enter ecodormancy, which relies on environmental triggers like a sudden drop in temperature. Functionally, both processes reduce the plant’s need for light and water, protect it from the stress of harsh winter conditions, and postpone growth until favorable conditions return.
Transplanting and planting
Don’t fret if all your transplanting and planting was not completed by the end of fall. If the ground isn’t frozen, hardy plants will take movement in stride during winter dormancy. Photo: Carol Collins
When your garden goes dormant, it may be tempting to hang up your tools and take the season off, but don’t let this unique opportunity go to waste. Winter is the best time to transplant many plants, especially trees and shrubs. Just as dormancy protects plants from feeling the effects of extreme weather, it also protects them from the stress and shock of transplanting. As long as you can get a shovel into the ground, you can transplant.
Hardy new additions to the garden can also be planted any time the ground isn’t frozen—so long as you’re careful not to move them from a house or greenhouse directly into freezing temps. Even in the harshness of winter, plants are happiest in the ground.
Common Winter Woes
Dormancy is a dependable process, and most cold-hardy plants survive the winter without ever needing help, but that’s not to say this season is always trouble-free. Here are the most common winter woes to look out for, and ways you can prevent them.
Frost heave:
Without an insulating layer of mulch or leaves, underground water can swell and crack soil. This is not a big deal for bare spots in the garden but devastating when it exposes root balls to the elements. Photo: Michal Maňas, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Frost heaving occurs when water freezes underground and turns to ice that pushes up from beneath the surface. The frozen soil swells and cracks, and can even lift the root balls of plants, exposing them to frigid air. Porous, loamy soils are particularly susceptible.
Frost heaving can be devastating in a garden, but you can protect against it with a good layer of mulch or even leaf litter to insulate the soil. Mid- to late fall is a great time to apply it before winter sets in. Learn more about the dos and don’ts of mulching here.
Frost damage:
Most hardy, well-established plants, like this rhododendron, will have no problem bouncing back from a hard frost but will likely lose buds that have already developed. Photo: liz west, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
While early or late frosts can cause unsightly damage to plants, it won’t usually kill hardy, established ones. The greatest risk tends to be to newly planted seedlings and flower buds. Seedlings might not be rooted in well enough to survive, or may experience a severe setback due to shock, and flower buds that freeze may lose an entire bloom season and any fruit that might have followed.
Predicting frosts can be a tricky business, since frost dates are based on yearly averages, so it’s important to be prepared. Here are ways to protect at-risk plants from a sudden frost:
Create a temporary cloche for individual plants out of an empty milk jug or juice container (be sure to remove it if temperatures rise during the day, to prevent a greenhouse effect).
Position cardboard boxes over plants.
Use sheets or blankets to shield flowering shrubs or entire beds from frost in areas where they aren’t likely to get wet.
Use plastic sheeting, which is impermeable by moisture, but be careful not to let it touch the plants.
Consider building hoop houses or cold frames for plants that need protection for an extended period of time.
If you’re concerned about a particular plant, there are several different methods of giving them a little extra protection from frost. Photo: Mark Dwyer
Even if a plant looks fatally damaged by frost, leave it planted. Roots may persist even when the foliage has died, and if given enough time to recover, sometimes the plant will regrow.
Plants that aren’t cold hardy:
Sometimes there is no way around it. If you want certain warm-climate plants, like elephant’s ear, to come back next year, you will need to dig them up. Check out How to Overwinter Elephant’s Ears to learn more. Photo: Jennifer Benner
Cold-hardy plants have come up a lot so far, but what about overwintering plants that aren’t hardy? Plants in pots and above-ground planters, and warm-climate favorites like fuchsia, elephant’s ear, and citrus trees can all be unequipped to deal with winter temperatures in the majority of the southeastern United States. Luckily, there are some ways to increase your chances:
Consider choosing perennials and small shrubs that are hardy to at least two growing zones below your own for pots and planters.
Move potted outdoor plants into an unheated shelter for winter, like a shed or unheated garage, and water occasionally (usually every few weeks).
Dig up non-hardy bulbs, like dahlias, to be stored for the winter.
Plant borderline-hardy plants along the south side of your house or another building to provide extra warmth in the winter.
Discuss this article or ask gardening questions with a regional gardening expert on the Gardening Answers forum.
And for more Southeast regional reports, click here.
Cheyenne Wine is a writer and gardener with experience in the plant nursery industry. She currently helps promote conservation efforts through the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation.
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Getting chickens was one of the best decisions I ever made, but I’ll be honest — the price of ready-made coops nearly scared me off.
Many of them looked cute, yet they cost a small fortune and still didn’t seem big or sturdy enough. So I decided to build my own, and it turned out to be far easier (and cheaper) than I expected.
The truth is, hens aren’t picky about fancy designs. They care about having a dry place to sleep, good airflow, protection from predators, and comfortable spots to lay eggs.
Once those basics are covered, you can get creative and use whatever materials you can find — pallets, old doors, leftover fencing, even things like trampolines or playhouses.
I also love that DIY coops grow with you. You can start simple, learn what works, and upgrade later. Every improvement makes chicken keeping easier and more fun.
Below are low-budget chicken coop ideas that regular backyard keepers have used successfully.
Some are quick weekend builds, others are brilliant recycling projects, and all of them can save you a lot of money.
27 Low-Budget DIY Chicken Coop Ideas
Chickens don’t need anything fancy — just a solid roof, dry bedding, and protection from whatever’s lurking out there.
With some grit, a little creativity, and reused materials, you can build them a good home without spending much.
1. Pallet Wood Chicken Coop
Start by gathering a few sturdy pallets and deciding whether you want to use them whole or take them apart for boards. Stand them up to form the walls, brace the corners, then add a simple roof, a pop door, and hardware cloth anywhere predators might sneak in.
The best part? Pallets are usually free, which keeps your build super affordable. They’re strong, weather-tough, and perfect for creating a coop without buying loads of lumber.
It might not look fancy, but your hens won’t mind one bit. Add bedding, a couple of roosts, and a nesting area, and they’ll settle in like it’s home.
2. Old Shed Conversion
If you’ve got a shed sitting around full of forgotten tools and spider webs, you’re already holding prime chicken real estate. Clear it out, sweep it up, and imagine where the roosts and nest boxes could go.
Most sheds are sturdy, roofed, and built to handle weather, which saves a huge amount of effort. Instead of framing walls, you’re mainly adding chicken-friendly features like ventilation, perches, and a small pop door.
Another big win is space. Sheds usually give birds more room to move, which helps prevent pecking issues and keeps the flock calmer.
With a run attached outside, you’ll have a setup that feels professional without the professional price tag.
3. A-Frame Chicken Tractor
Want something simple, lightweight, and easy to build? An A-frame might be your best friend. The triangle shape uses less wood but stays strong, making it great for beginners.
Build two triangular ends, connect them with boards, then cover sections with wire and a bit of roofing. Add handles or small wheels so you can shift it around the yard.
Moving the coop regularly gives chickens fresh grass, new bugs to chase, and cleaner ground. It can also cut down on feed costs over time.
It’s practical, efficient, and kind of fun to use — like rotating pasture on a mini scale.
This one is perfect if you want fast, cheap, and beginner-proof. Grab some PVC pipes, connectors, and build a simple frame — boxy or hoop-shaped both work great.
Once the skeleton is up, wrap it with hardware cloth and secure a tarp or metal sheet on top for shade and rain protection. You’ll be surprised how quickly it comes together.
Because it’s lightweight, you can shift the coop without a wrestling match. That makes cleaning easier and gives your hens fresh ground more often.
It’s not fancy carpentry, but it’s practical, affordable, and gets the job done without stress.
5. Dog House Chicken Coop
Sometimes the easiest builds are hiding in plain sight. An old dog house can turn into a chicken shelter in an afternoon with just a few tweaks.
Raise it slightly off the ground if needed, toss in dry bedding, and install a perch across the inside. If you’re feeling handy, attach a nesting box to the outside wall to free up space.
These little houses are already built to handle outdoor weather, so you skip most of the hard work. Plus, they’re cozy, which chickens tend to love.
For a tiny backyard flock, it’s a simple, budget-friendly solution that works better than you might expect.
6. Trampoline Frame Chicken Coop
If there’s an old trampoline rusting away in the yard, here’s your chance to give it a second life. Remove the mat, keep the metal frame, and you’ve instantly got the outline for a big, airy chicken space.
Wrap the sides with hardware cloth and secure it tightly so nothing can push in or dig under. Most people place a smaller wooden shelter inside where the hens can roost and lay.
The circular shape gives birds plenty of room to wander, scratch, and flap around without feeling cramped. It’s especially nice for active flocks.
It’s a creative reuse, saves a pile of money, and turns backyard junk into something genuinely useful.
Using old doors is a smart way to create strong, ready-made walls without cutting tons of lumber. Since doors are already rectangular and solid, framing the structure becomes much quicker.
Stand the doors upright, fasten them at the corners, and reinforce with simple supports. Many even come with windows, which can help with natural light and ventilation.
This approach reduces waste, lowers material costs, and produces a sturdy coop that holds up well in bad weather.
With proper predator-proofing and a good roof, a door-built coop can last just as long as a traditional build.
8. Chicken Coop from Scrap Lumber
This is the build where you use what you’ve got and make it work. A few leftover boards from a fence, part of an old deck, maybe something your neighbor was tossing — suddenly you’re in business.
Nothing may match, and that’s part of the charm. Chickens aren’t judging your design skills; they just want shelter and safety.
Put your energy into strong wire, tight latches, and a roof that doesn’t leak. The rest can look as patchwork as it wants.
Funny enough, these thrown-together coops often become the toughest ones in the yard.
9. Plastic Barrel Chicken Coop
If you can get your hands on a large food-grade barrel, you’ve got the start of a tough, weatherproof mini coop. Lay it on its side or keep it upright, then cut out an entrance big enough for your hens.
Drill or cut a few ventilation openings near the top to keep fresh air moving. Toss in straw or pine shavings, and you’ve created a snug sleeping area in almost no time.
One of the biggest advantages here is durability. Plastic won’t rot, absorb moisture, or attract mites the way wood sometimes can.
These barrel shelters are especially handy inside a fenced run, giving birds a dry place to retreat when the weather turns rough.
Some folks want practical, others want practical and adorable. A tiny house coop lets you keep costs reasonable while still building something that looks special in the yard.
Use basic plywood or reclaimed boards for the frame, then add simple touches like a small window, shutters, or a cheerful paint color. You can keep the structure straightforward without going overboard on details.
Inside, stick to the essentials: roost bars, nesting spots, and good airflow. The fancy look is mostly for you — the chickens will be happy either way.
In the end, it’s a fun project that gives your flock a solid home and gives you bragging rights every time someone visits.
11. Lean-To Chicken Coop
A lean-to coop is one of those ideas that makes you wonder why you’d build any other way. You’re borrowing strength from something that already exists — a barn wall, garage, shed, or even a sturdy fence.
Because one side is done, you’ll use fewer posts, fewer boards, and way less time. Add two side walls, frame the front, and slope a roof so rain runs away from the structure. Simple and efficient.
It also tends to be warmer and more protected from wind, especially in colder months. Chickens appreciate that more than fancy paint.
For budget builders, this design hits the sweet spot between easy and reliable.
12. Hoop House Chicken Coop
If you like quick builds with big results, a hoop house setup is hard to beat. Bend cattle panels or flexible pipe into an arch, secure them to the ground, and suddenly you have a roomy frame.
Cover it with tarp, metal, or poly, and wrap the ends with hardware cloth. The curved roof sheds rain nicely and stands up well to rough weather.
Inside, you can keep things very basic — a small roosting shelter, feeders, and water. The birds get tons of space to move around.
It’s affordable, surprisingly strong, and goes up faster than most traditional coops.
13. Greenhouse Chicken Coop Combo
This is where gardening and chicken keeping shake hands. By sharing space, you can make better use of your backyard while giving your flock something interesting to explore.
Chickens help by eating bugs and adding natural fertilizer, and in cooler months they can even contribute a bit of warmth. Just be sure to block off plants you don’t want scratched up.
You don’t need a fancy structure for this to work. Even a simple partition inside an existing greenhouse can do the trick.
Done right, it becomes a productive little ecosystem that benefits both your birds and your crops.
Rabbit hutches already come with many features chicken keepers need, which makes them an easy starting point. They usually include framed walls, wire sections, and doors, so you’re not building from scratch.
To make it work for hens, replace or reinforce any weak flooring, then add a proper roost and a nesting area. You’ll also want to check that predators can’t reach through the wire or dig underneath.
This setup is best for a very small flock, but for beginners or limited spaces, it can be a practical and affordable option that requires minimal effort.
15. Playhouse Turned Chicken Coop
When children outgrow a backyard playhouse, it can quickly become prime poultry housing. These buildings are typically sturdy, weather resistant, and already designed to sit outdoors year-round.
A few adjustments make a big difference. Install ventilation openings, add roost bars, and create nesting boxes where toys once lived. The transformation is usually simpler than people expect.
You end up with a roomy, charming coop without the cost of new materials, and the structure often looks far better than many budget builds.
16. Milk Crate Nesting System
Instead of building complicated wooden nest boxes, many chicken keepers rely on milk crates. They’re strong, uniform, and incredibly easy to clean or replace.
Slide them into a frame, stack them along a wall, or secure them slightly off the ground. Add bedding, and the hens will claim them quickly.
This approach saves time, reduces lumber use, and makes egg collection straightforward. It’s a small change that can simplify your entire coop design.
17. Mobile Coop on Wheels
A coop that moves gives you flexibility that fixed structures can’t match. By adding wheels or placing the build on an old trailer base, you can shift the birds whenever the ground needs a break.
Fresh pasture helps with odor, flies, and parasite buildup. It also keeps chickens entertained as they explore new spots.
While the initial setup might take a bit more thought, the long-term benefits make daily management easier and healthier for the flock.
18. Fence Panel Chicken Coop
Fence panels can act as instant walls, saving hours of measuring and cutting. Stand them upright, secure the corners, and you’ll have the frame of a coop in no time.
Because they’re built to survive outdoors, they already have decent durability. You simply add a roof, predator-proof wire where needed, and a door.
This method is efficient, beginner friendly, and often cheaper than buying individual boards, especially if you find panels secondhand.
19. Tarp-Covered Frame Chicken Coop
Need something quick, affordable, and functional? A tarp-covered coop might be the fastest way to get birds under shelter. Build a simple wooden cube or rectangle, secure wire on the sides, then stretch a heavy-duty tarp across the top and part of the walls.
This design works especially well if you’re in a mild climate or need temporary housing while planning something bigger. The tarp keeps rain off, blocks harsh sun, and can be replaced cheaply if it wears out.
You can customize how enclosed it feels by adjusting how much of the frame you cover. More tarp means more wind protection; more wire means better airflow.
It’s not glamorous, but it’s practical and can be built in a weekend without draining your wallet.
Old wardrobes, armoires, or storage cabinets often have more life left in them than people realize. With a little modification, they can become compact but comfortable chicken homes.
Start by removing shelves or repositioning them into nesting areas. Cut ventilation openings, reinforce the back if needed, and make cleaning easier by adding a removable floor tray.
Because the structure is already built, you skip most of the heavy carpentry. It’s more about adapting than constructing.
For urban keepers or small spaces, this can be a clever, space-saving solution that feels surprisingly sturdy.
21. Shipping Crate Chicken Coop
Large shipping crates are built to carry heavy loads, which makes them excellent candidates for coop conversions. Many stores are happy to give them away just to avoid disposal.
Once you have one, the framework is mostly finished. Add a door, create openings for ventilation, and install roost bars and nesting spots inside.
Their thick wood offers good protection from wind and predators, and the boxy shape makes them easy to modify or expand later.
With a bit of effort, a simple crate can turn into a long-lasting coop at a fraction of retail prices.
22. Straw Bale Chicken Coop
If you live where straw or hay is easy to find, this method can be incredibly budget friendly. Instead of traditional walls, you stack bales like giant building blocks and create an enclosed shelter in a matter of hours.
The natural insulation is the real star here. Straw helps trap warmth in winter and can keep the interior surprisingly comfortable when temperatures drop. Chickens often appreciate the quieter, draft-free environment.
You’ll still need a solid roof and good ventilation, but the amount of lumber required is minimal. Over time, some bales may break down, yet they’re simple to replace.
It’s rustic, practical, and feels right at home on a homestead.
23. Minimalist Open-Air Coop
In warmer climates, heavy construction isn’t always necessary. Many keepers find that their birds spend most of their time outside anyway, so the focus shifts toward shade and safety rather than thick walls.
An open-air design usually includes a roof, strong wire boundaries, and a sheltered corner for roosting and laying. Airflow stays excellent, which helps reduce moisture and odor.
Because you’re building less, you’re also spending less. Materials go toward predator protection instead of decorative extras.
It’s a reminder that sometimes the simplest solution is more than enough.
24. Recycled Metal Chicken Coop
Leftover roofing sheets or metal panels can become extremely tough coop walls. When attached to a basic wooden frame, they create a structure that stands up well to weather, chewing pests, and time.
Metal is particularly useful in areas with heavy rain or snow because it doesn’t absorb moisture. It also tends to be harder for predators to damage compared to thinner materials.
You can mix metal with wood to balance cost and appearance, using reclaimed pieces wherever possible. Paint can help soften the industrial look if you prefer something more traditional.
Strong, long-lasting, and often sourced cheaply — it’s a practical builder’s choice.
25. Under-Deck Chicken Coop
Look at the space under a raised deck or porch and you might be staring at a ready-made roof. Instead of building a full structure from the ground up, you’re really just enclosing what’s already there.
Add framed sides, hardware cloth, and a secure door, and the job becomes far less intimidating. The overhead cover protects against rain and harsh sun without extra expense.
Chickens usually appreciate the natural shade, especially in summer. It can stay cooler there than in open yard setups.
For homeowners trying to save money and maximize unused space, this is a smart, efficient solution.
26. Tree-Supported Chicken Coop
Why set posts if nature already did it for you? Strong, well-placed trees can act as anchors for fencing, roofing, or even elevated roosting areas.
You might build small platforms between trunks or wrap the perimeter with wire to create a protected zone. The setting often feels more natural, and birds love scratching around roots and fallen leaves.
Because the environment provides part of the framework, material costs can drop significantly. You spend less on lumber and more on securing the boundaries.
It’s a creative approach that blends your coop into the landscape instead of forcing it to stand apart.
27. Basic Box Chicken Coop
At the end of the day, a chicken coop can be wonderfully simple. Four walls, a roof, ventilation, and safe places to roost and lay are really all that’s required.
A straightforward box design is easy to measure, easy to build, and easy to expand later. Beginners often find confidence in starting with something uncomplicated.
You can improve it over time by adding paint, a bigger run, or extra features once you understand your flock’s habits.
Plain doesn’t mean poor — it means practical, dependable, and built to work.
Conclusion
Building a chicken coop on a budget isn’t about cutting corners — it’s about putting your money where it matters most. As long as your hens have security, ventilation, and a dry place to rest, they’ll be perfectly content.
One of the best parts of going the DIY route is flexibility. You can start small, reuse what you have, and improve the setup as your flock grows or your experience increases.
Some of the most dependable coops come from simple ideas and secondhand materials. They may not win design awards, but they keep birds safe and egg baskets full.
In the end, a practical coop built with care will always beat an expensive one that doesn’t fit your needs.
Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting
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Hellebore, Helleborus spp., is a large genus of winter- to spring-blooming flowers known best for their nodding heads and ability to bloom even in the snow.
Colors range from pinks and purples to whites, yellows, and greens. There may be a single row of sepals or an additional inner row of petals, as in varieties known as “doubles.”
Foliage is deeply divided in palmate (radiating), or pedate (foot-like) fashion. It ranges from deciduous, matte, soft-textured, light green leaves to evergreen, shiny, leathery, dark green leaves.
Hellebore thrives in part to full shade with organically rich, well-draining soil that has a neutral to slightly alkaline pH.
Pigsqueak, Bergenia cordifolia, has panicles, or drooping clusters, of dark pink blossoms.
The leaves are shiny, leathery, and heart-shaped, and arranged in rosettes. They squeak if you rub them, hence the name.
New spring growth has red stems, and the foliage is evergreen, deepening to burgundy in the fall.
This is a ground-covering plant that grows in dense clumps from seeds or fleshy rhizomes.
It’s taller than most, topping out at 12 to 18 inches. Give it room to roam on sloped areas where it can both beautify the landscape and inhibit erosion at the same time.
Flowering quince, Chaenomeles speciosa, is a large deciduous shrub that bears small yellow-green edible fruit that you may like to make into jam, jelly, or preserves.
The blossoms are similar to those of a cherry tree, and have salmon-pink to red single or double petals.
The foliage consists of shiny, oval leaves that appear as the flowers drop. The branches are dense and often thorny.
There are varieties suitable for Zones 4 to 9. Provide full sun to part shade, with average, acidic soil that drains well.
The overall shape tends to be rounded. Average heights are between six and 10 feet. Best uses include hedging and stand-alone plantings.
‘Scarlet Storm’ is a particularly attractive variety with double-petal dark crimson flowers that bloom on four- to five-foot shrubs. This cultivar has no thorns.
Forsythia, Forsythia x intermedia, aka border forsythia, is a tall, deciduous shrub with slender, arching branches dotted with yellow blossoms.
Flowers spring directly from the stems, nodding their star-shaped yellow heads before most other blooms have awakened.
Narrow elliptical leaves sometimes appear before the flowers fall.
Best suited to Zones 5 to 8, forsythia grows to a mature height of eight to 10 feet, with a slightly rounded shape. The leaves may turn bronze in the fall.
You can use this plant for hedging. Prune it to the height of your choice, or leave it to its own devices.
Or, give it room to spread its arching branches like fountains of yellow in a large drift of its own.
Japanese camellia, Camellia japonica, aka the rose of winter, has flowers that resemble flouncy, cottage garden English roses.
It comes in shades of pink, purple, red, white, and yellow. The smooth, shiny, oval foliage is evergreen in Zones 7 to 9, where it grows best.
For cultivation, provide a location with part to full shade that is sheltered from strong winds. The soil should be acidic, organically rich, and well-draining.
There are numerous cultivars with mature heights ranging from seven to 12 feet tall. The Japanese varieties grow a bit more slowly than other types.
One you may like is ‘Korean Fire.’ It has rose-red flowers and tops out at 10 to 12 feet tall.
Pussy willow, Salix caprea, can grow as a shrub or a small tree. The long, bare stems of male plants bear furry gray and white catkins for intriguing early season interest.
Find a spot with full sun to part shade for growing pussy willow. I had a beautiful small tree at one time, on the south side of my house.
It provided me with armloads of long stems for stunning floral arrangements.
Pussy willow reaches a mature height of 15 to 25 feet tall. By trimming the new canes (fresh spring stems) each year, I was able to maintain a manageable size.
To grow as a tree, trim away the side branches to establish a trunk. Plant bulbs and perennials around your tree for a pleasing focal point.
For cultivation as a bush, allow the lower branches to remain. This is a useful option for property perimeter plantings, hedgerows, or specimen planting in an island bed of its own.
Spring heath, Erica x darleyensis, is also known as winter heath.
It’s an evergreen ground cover with multiple overlapping stems that bear rows of tiny bright pink to red cylindrical flowers. The foliage consists of bright green needles.
Spring heath prefers full sun and organically rich, well-draining, acidic soil. However, it has a high tolerance for poor acidic soil, as well.
Heights range from 12 to 15 inches tall at maturity.
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Celebrate the first day of spring with Fine Gardening on March 20, 2026, during a special live webinar that looks ahead to one of our most anticipated travel experiences of the year: the Stunning Gardens of the Netherlands tour in September 2026. Join Annie Guilfoyle, acclaimed UK garden designer and co-host of the upcoming tour, along with Fine Gardening editors Danielle Sherry and Carol Collins, for an engaging, behind-the-scenes conversation about Dutch garden design, travel inspiration, and what makes this journey so special.
This interactive webinar is your chance to ask questions directly, hear insider stories, and get a closer look at the gardens, designers, and cultural experiences that will shape the Netherlands tour. Annie and company will share insights you won’t find in the itinerary alone. Whether you’re already considering joining us in the Netherlands or love learning about lesser-known horticultural gems, this spring-kickoff event offers inspiration, expert perspective, and a preview of what promises to be an unforgettable garden travel experience.
Award-winning garden designer, RHS Chelsea Flower Show judge
Garden Masterclass co-founder Annie Guilfoyle combines running a successful garden design consultancy with lecturing and writing on the subject around the globe. Her design work has been featured on several television programs, including Small Town Gardens on the BBC. She is a garden course consultant at West Dean College near Chichester, West Sussex, and teaches a monthly course called The Art and Craft of Garden Design at Great Dixter House and Gardens. Annie’s down-to-earth personality and witty sense of humor make her popular in international horticulture circles.
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With adjustable tine spacing: suitable for raking coarse and fine material. Flexible, zinc-plated spring-steel prongs. Working width adjustable from 12-20 inches. Sold as head only, handle sold separately.
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Lightweight and Breathable MATERIAL Good for protecting Plant: the plant frost cover material is 0.74 oz/sq non-woven polypropylene fabric, which is lightweight, breathable, and durable. The plant blanket frost protection allows sunlight reach the plants, perfect for protecting plants from the damage of freeze or frost. Wide Application In your Garden Work. The plant row cover not only can work as a barrier against frost, but also can be a great tool for germination and good for rapid seedling growth. By using the fabric plant covers over your plant, you can start the plant earlier in the spring and extending the growing season of your plants. How to Use the Plant Covers: you can cover the plant covers for freeze over your the plants loosely directly and then secure the plant frost blanket with soil, stones or staples. You can also support the floating row covers with a hoop, make enough room for plants to breath and grow. You could also cut the plant covers into different sizes for different purposes.
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Joey Thurman’s Ab Mat is a foam core training accessory designed to provide lower back support during floor-based abdominal exercises. Its contoured shape is intended to sit beneath the lower spine, supporting the natural curve of the back during movements such as ab crunches and sit ups. When placed on the floor, the ab mat positions the lower back against its curved surface rather than allowing the spine to rest flat. This structure enables the torso to move through a curved range during abdominal exercises while maintaining contact with the mat throughout the movement. The design is intended for bodyweight core workouts performed on a flat surface. The gym floor mat for abs is constructed from high density EPE foam and covered with a PVC outer layer. The foam provides firm yet cushioned support that maintains its shape during repeated use. The PVC exterior adds durability and features a textured surface that helps reduce sliding on most floor surfaces during exercise. With dimensions of 37 x 30 x 7.5 cm or 14.4 x 11.7 x 2.9 inches, the ab mat is sized to fit under the lower back without occupying excessive space. Its compact footprint allows it to be stored easily between workouts and used in a variety of training environments, including home workout areas and gym floors. This ab mat is intended for men and women performing abdominal and core exercises that require lower back support. It is suitable for beginners learning proper positioning as well as experienced users incorporating floor-based core movements into their fitness routines. The product is a simple foam ab mat and does not include electronics, straps, handles, or moving parts. ERGONOMIC LOWER BACK SUPPORT: Joey Thurman’s ab workout equipment is a must have, with a contoured shape to support the natural curve of the lower back during ab crunches and sit up exercises. The shape of this sit up mat allows the torso to move through a curved path rather than resting flat on the floor during abdominal workouts. PREMIUM FOAM CONSTRUCTION: Made with high density EPE foam and a durable PVC outer layer, the workout mat provides firm yet cushioned back support that maintains its shape and stability throughout abdominal exercises and repeated use OPTIMIZED SIZE AND SHAPE: This fitness mat 37 x 30 x 7.5 cm or 14.4 x 11.7 x 2.9 inches. The size and thickness of our padded mat are designed to fit under the lower back during floor-based abdominal exercises without taking up excessive workout space. NON SLIP AND COMPACT DESIGN: The PVC outer surface features a textured finish that helps reduce sliding on most floor surfaces during abdominal exercises. The compact dimensions of our abs workout equipment allow for easy storage and use in home or gym workout spaces. VERSATILE CORE TRAINING TOOL: This core strengthening equipment is suitable for use during ab workout, sit ups, leg lifts, and other floor-based core exercises where lower back support is needed. Our ab exercise equipment is designed for bodyweight abdominal workouts performed on the floor.
